i bought the bike -'started on it today, gearbox oil looks recent, fan cuts in and out as it should, starts first kick, engine runs well, just need to do wheel bearings, chain and sprocket, fitted new plug and new air filter element, front and rear suspension works as it should, tyres are servicable, so it will be ready to ride in an event. no more to say really,'
the bike has 2 small holes in the air box above the back wheel. i rode about 10 hours in a dusty gritty area.
the air box and carb were extreamly dirty.
On purchase i was told the knocking was piston slap and goes when hot. its got worse!
i will speak with dealer tomorrow.
i want to upgrade to something newwer. i dont need all this hassle!
Er wait a minute. Holes in the rubber mud guard? Yes that is where the tail light wires go through. They do not go through the airbox. Are the holes in the air box or just the mudguard?
The air box points back in a v-shape. The 2 holes are on the very tip on the right side of the air box.
The engine has taken alot of sand dirt grit the carb was pretty bad!
I must have done 10 hours now in my first week so went to clean filter only to find air box full of grit mud dust. Horror! Found 2 neat round holes far right side.
I went mad at dealer. He said this is where tail light wiring used to go?!?!
i had some fuel pinking on one but jetting was out that got sorted. knocking doesnt sound good. piston slaps when worn ie worn barrel coating, worn piston or rings or bearing. id strip top end off and check piston barrel and bearing its 45 min job tops. and the beta gearboxes feel nakered compared to others thats what i found. good luck
i have just read through the online manual and realised i should have put superunleaded in which i will do next time.
Why ?
Super has a higher octane which resists ignition, a lower octane fuel is simply igniting on compression before tdc (pre ignition)
Piston slap is caused by general wear causing a slight movement in the piston this could be worn rings , or at the other end of the scale could be a tired big end, or indeed anything in between from main bearings through to small end bearing.
first step would be, whip the barrel and piston off carefully remove the top ring and taking care not to score the barrel slip it inside the barrel to just above the ports and measure the gap with a feeler gauge (I forget the tolerence but lampkins should be able to help) if the gap is only just out of tolerence new rings should sort it,
inspect the gudgin pin if there is any wear on the pin replace both the pin and bearing
now take hold of the conrod and shake it around you should expect a small amount of side to side movement but NO up or down play if there is any play to determine whether its big end or mains take hold of the flywheel and try to move that if that moves in anyway your mains have had it
very helpful thanks all.
Today i used the proper fuel.
it seemed to run better but knocked more!
i want to run it for a while before i take the head off and will probably need some help to do so.
Am i doing any damage running it with a knock/tap tap
Why don't you practise balance point wheelies using the rear brake when standing on the 315R? Once you can do that, you will find it easy on a sitting-down type bike.
If you are still determined to do sitting wheelies on the 315R, why not attach some grippy fabric or sandpaper to the rear guard with double sided tape to stop your pants slipping and attach a shaped piece of dense foam or expended polystyrene to fill the dip.
To get the footbrake lever position to work, have you tried wearing some shoes that are more flexible to allow your foot to flex up higher?
i just need a few inches under the hump and ill be fine
i phoned sandifords and they said that many people have done this but could not recomend any one
Sorry, I was **** at grammer at school. What I mean is, keep your foot over the brake all the time if possible, use your left leg to balance side to side and if you want to turn left or right pull on one side of the bars (or push) but still only use the free leg to balance. Cant always keep the brake covered but it will stop a loop out most of the time.
So when you say left leg
You mean knee flapping foot on peg?
I tried your straight arm principle on my SM 400cc.
If you like your wheelies make sure you cover the back brake all the time, it will stop you from going over the back and use it to feel for the balance point. When the front drops blip it back up either to the balance point or over and control it with the brake, use your left leg for balance left and right turning.
use your left leg for balance left and right turning.
Cambridge Matchless Friday
in Beta
Posted
Will be rideing tomorrow at Elsworth [2nd time]. beta rev3 250
i should arrive early [white renault master green and yellow stips- x ambulance]
i would like someone to have a listen knocking and tapping.
only had the bike a week from a dealer!
have rode 10 hours with 2 holes in the airbox so it has taken in alot of dirt!
going to have to trust the dealer!!!
thanks in advance