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Everything posted by resto
  1. I have purchased a 12-tooth countershaft sprocket for my TL125 K2. It is a JT Sprocket (part # JTF259.12), but the threaded holes on it do not match up to the holes in the OEM part that Honda calls the
  2. I have searched the forum for any tips regarding reinstalling a Sherco air box, but have not found what I am looking for. I have an 03 290 and had a hard time reinstalling the air box last time I removed it. When removing the air box, I loosened the hose clamp that attaches the rubber boot the carburetor. This allowed me to remove the air box with the rubber boot still attached to it. My problems started when I began to reinstall the air box. The frame was in the way when I tried to slide the rubber boot back onto the carburetor. The deflector shield obscured my view and also got in the way as well. After hours of wrestling with this, I finally removed the deflector shield and somehow got the rubber boot back on the carburetor. After this, it was easy to finish reinstalling the air box. The frustration associated with the process of getting the rubber boot back on the carburetor and having to ditch the deflector shield to even have a remote chance at completing the task have really made me dread the next time I need to remove the air box. Do any of you have suggestions to make this an easier task ? Resto
  3. Neo, I ordered Sherco OEM bearings and seals from Ryan Young Products. As mentioned in my earlier post, I thought I had received the wrong bearings when I saw that they were sealed on both sides. I called Ryan and he assured me that the double-sealed bearings were correct. I took him for his word and installed the bearings. That was in April '07. Two years later, these bearings are still performing flawlessly. Best of luck to you. -Resto
  4. A few comments regarding Sherco main bearings: I replaced the main bearings in my '03 290 in April, 2007. My problem was a worn left-side bearing. The right-side looked OK, but I replaced the bearings and crank seals on both sides. There was no rust on either bearing. Actually, my issue was wear and heat-related damage - pretty much the opposite end of the spectrum from the rust issue. I feel certain that the bike may have experienced a rough childhood before I got it. Most likely a diet that contained a lot of dust and lack of proper air filter maintenance. I ordered my bearings from Ryan Young Products using the part number from the '03 Sherco parts list. When I received the bearings I noticed that they were sealed on both sides. I immediately called Ryan to make sure I had not received the incorrect bearings. He assured me that I had received the correct parts and that the revised bearings were supposed to be sealed. This seemed rather odd to me even after our conversation, so I sent him an email to get written clarification. He replied with the same answer. "The new bearings are sealed. Leave the seals in place when you install them." I also discussed the sealed bearing issue with Brad Baumert at TTC this spring. Apparently, some engineer at the Sherco factory had explained the sealed bearing reasoning to the RYP guys and was confident that this was the way to go. I am happy to report that these sealed bearings finished out the '07 season and have performed flawlessly through the '08 season as well. They still seem just as fresh as they did when I installed them. The sealed bearing concept seems odd, but I am now a believer. For what it is worth, I run premium unleaded with Maxima K2 @ 80:1
  5. Wayne, I just completed replacement of main bearings and seals on my '03 290. Not a fun job ! Like you, I had similar difficulty in separating the cases. I found that patience was the key to success on this project. When frustrated, I simply walked away from it - and then came back later with a fresh perspective on things. Glad to say - that despite the difficulties - everything eventually came apart, and went back together as it was supposed to. The engine is now smooth and quiet. It has performed perfectly during my club's just completed season. Regarding the seals: I purchased my parts from Ryan Young Products. My receipt shows that the seals are 25/40/7. According to the Sherco parts fiche, the part number is HM032. The price per seal was $9.34 USD. Good luck with your repair. Resto
  6. Shercoholic, Your advice was on the money. Installation was very easy following your suggestion. Thanks for the assistance.
  7. Thanks to you both, beta rider & Shercoholic. I appreciate the replies. Shercoholic, my chain is off - I'm replacing it with a new one. I've tried a method similar to what you recommend, BUT I have had the spring end hooked over the tensioner arm. No wonder I've been having so much trouble. I will do as you suggest and leave the spring end unhooked. After securing the allen bolt for the tensioner, I will use a spring puller to hook the spring end to the tensioner arm. Thanks again !
  8. New member here - although I've been reading posts for quite a while. I've picked up many helpful tips from you guys, but need to ask if anyone can help me with my current issue : What is the best method to install a new chain tensioner spring ????? I have spent a lot of time trying without success. The spring is so strong that I can't compress it enough to get the bolt started. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance !
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