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About portman

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  1. Take a look at this since that story was rather similar, bikerpet.
  2. portman

    Petrol switch

    See http://www.betamotor.com/en/support/manuals. Don't go back as far as 2006 but the 2008 manual is probably pretty close.
  3. The tap has a solenoid (an electrical coil which generates a magnetic field which attracts the centre core causing it to move and open the tap). As soon as the engine turns over sufficient electrical energy flows to the tap to open the fuel flow. The tap also includes an alternative setting to allow the carb to be filled with fuel (primed) in those situations such as where the bike has been out of use for some time and the carb contains no fuel. Can't remember which position is the priming one but the owners manual shows it clearly. If you search the Beta forum on this site there's some more info to be gained.
  4. I suggest you also check the tank cap to make sure it is allowing air in to replace the fuel flowing out to the carb. The cap incorporates a one-way valve to ensure fuel does not escape when the bike is upside down/on its side. You can check two ways. If the bike is misbehaving again, undo the tank cap completely and it it runs OK that's probably your problem. Alternatively, remove the cap and let the air get to it to evaporate any fuel or vapour. Then alternatively suck/blow on the tiny black breather pipe on the cap to see if allows air through one way (as if into the tank) but not the other way.
  5. The cap contains a one-way valve which should allow air in as the fuel tank empties but prevent fuel from escaping. I suggest you undo the cap and allow it to breathe for a while to evaporate any fuel trapped inside then blow and suck on the tube to see if it is working properly.
  6. The diagram appears to show a handlebar switch which also has a horn switch and kill switch incorporated. It is unlikely you have this set up, probably just the black switch box by the radiator shown in klonheadd's post. In your diagram (and it is the same wiring colours with the small black switch box when you look at the "race" wiring diagram) the on/off switch for the lights links the blue wire (Bl) and the white and blue wire (Bi-Bl) to make the lights work. So the previous owner probably linked these two wires, either to make the lights work (continuously) without the need for a switch, or perhaps just thought they needed to be linked. Providing neither wire was shorted anywhere to earth, I don't think any harm will have been done.
  7. Thall1 Don't know where you have got your diagrams from but https://www.betausa.com/content/support is a very good source. The owner's manuals have wiring diagrams. The earlier ones were poorly reproduced, but if you look at 2014 onwards they are much easier to read. Unless you have indicators etc fitted I suggest you look within each manual for the simplified "race" version, which cuts things down to basics. The "homologated" diagrams are more complex and show handlebar light switches, etc, which most of us don't have. If you go back to the 2013 manual, on page 66 it gives some resistance readings for doing a generator check. This might also help. I don't think they've changed things much over the years, although I may be wrong regards the last couple of years (the regulator rectifier may have changed spec and been moved, not sure). You mentioned in another thread that some lighting wires had been looped together. This might have fried the generator and/or the regulator/rectifier, but you may be lucky. It may be a simple connector problem, as chappo experienced.
  8. If a carb floods on a 4 stroke and depending upon the state of the inlet valves (fully closed or partially open), and depending upon the inclination of the carb relative to the inlet manifold (eg when you've fallen off the carb may well be uphill of the inlet manifold) it is quite possible that fuel can leak into the cylinder. This can give rise to two problems. Fuel leaking past the rings to contaminate the lubricating oil, or possibly even accumulating in the cylinder and causing a hydraulic lock where the engine won't turn over but excess pressure on the kickstart could lead to a bent con rod. A solenoid operated fuel tap overcomes either possibility because, as oni nou says, it shuts off when the engine stops. I know all the old 4 strokes had normal fuel taps but I doubt if they had made a solenoid version back then they would have been very reliable!
  9. portman

    beta 4t oil pump

    I no longer have my Evo 4T (same motor as Rev 4T) but from memory the oil level stayed up to the top of the sight glass when the motor was running, providing, that is, the bike was upright. You could check oil is circulating by taking off one of the valve covers, but they're not easy to access. I always found the motor very reliable so you may be concerned over nothing.
  10. Thanks Bilks, that was the sort of price I was looking at paying on another site. I was only going to buy one as I was getting other things from the other site, but it's good to know they are around for more reasonable money, should I ever need one.
  11. Thanks Moleman. I had come across a web site selling various pullers at very reasonable prices but they don't list a 32mm with a LH thread. That's probably why those that are available are more expensive. Possibly just for Beta's? And, for info, I am not rebuilding the motor. In fact there's nothing wrong with it, but I was ordering other items from the web site and I would have included a puller to have on hand.
  12. Does anyone know the thread size (diameter and thread pitch) on the newer type EVO ignition flywheel? According to the parts lists they use the same flywheel puller for both 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines. Thanks
  13. That is excellent customer service. Mistakes will occur sometimes but you can't knock a business which apologises and puts matters right (and in this case seem to have gone more than the extra mile). Worthy of naming the shop in my opinion.
  14. portman

    fuel leak on 4t evo

    Have you tried carefully tightening the banjo-type bolt that secures the tap to the frame? It may be the washers (I think they're fibre, not copper) have become a little squashed over time and are no longer providing a good seal. However if the weep is from adjacent to the small manual on/off device then it is possible the main seals have gone. Sorry, but I can't recall what seals are in there. I no longer have my 4T but I didn't experience that problem.
  15. The other screw (a normal allen headed screw, probably with a natural metal finish, not shiny) just below the one mentioned by lineaway, is an engine locking bolt which is used for locking the engine at top dead centre, such as when checking valve clearances. If ever you remove it don't lose the special washer under the screw head. I recommend you download the "2009 to 2012 Evo (4 stroke) engine" document under Trials Service Manuals on the last link given by lineaway. It describes how to strip, check and reassemble the motor. Whilst you shouldn't have to be doing that on a new bike (not yet, anyway!) it is all useful information. As far as I know the 2017 motor is very similar, if not identical, to the 2012 version.
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