I'd say that the tube strength will be compromised as it is. Not a lot....... but i'd sleep easier if was mine... and it was repaired. Get a quality piece of 4130 Cro-moly tube that is one size bigger than the dented tube, cut it to 40mm long and split length ways, get a good TIG welder to weld it over the dented tube. Get him to work quickly to minimise heat effects.
Clean it up slowly with a file. Do the other side to match the looks and, likely, no one will notice.
Oh and remove the electronics before starting to weld.
Ralph
Exactly and you will create stress risers all across the welds top and bottom.
Design a sacrificial plate that can attach to the rad mounting bolt.
I would not cut the frame. The solution that Ishy shows should work. Gas Gas pro bikes have a piece of rubber that is used to prevent denting the frame.
I should have deleted some of the pictures. No I did not gain weight, all of the bicycle riding and walking in the woods. Yes I do miss that tasty cake, worth every penny! We look forward to a ride with you guys.
I am at Ron and Esther's, we came down to surprise her on her birthday. The same day that we arrived Ron's new 2010 2.9 arrived. We celebrated Esther's birthday on Wednesday night, and Ron started taking the Sherco apart on Thursday, he always takes a new bike apart, everything comes off except for the engine and the electronics. He then puts it back together applying grease to every bearing and anti-seize to all of the bolts that go into aluminum. He also works his magic on many other components (secret). I got to observe all of the changes that the engineers have made to the new bike. I am very impressed, here is a list of the significant changes that I saw.
1. Entirely new frame, very nicely finished, good welds and neat little forgings where the front part of the frame attaches to the engine. The frame is extremely narrow at the head tube area, but it looks plenty sturdy.
2. The new fuel tank is nicely done, it will take some time to figure out how to put fuel in it and how often, but hopefully the learning curve will be shallow.
3. The fuel tank and the muffler fit fairly well, Ron had to make a couple of adjustments to get the rear fender to set level.
4. The wiring is all new and much simpler, the components look better and the location of the electronics is much better.
5. A nice touch is the neat cast bracket that serves as the rear head stay and the mounting for the electronics.
6. The radiator fill cap is right out in the open, much easier to get to than formerly.
7. The new air filter box location is awesome, so easy to access, the filter should stay dry. The dzus fastener is kind of a PITA but it is a proven design and they have been used in the aircraft industry for years.
Ron should finish everything today and hopefully give it a test ride before taking it to Kansas tomorrow. He did start it last night and it sounded really good. He did rejet the carb, 118 main and a 35 pilot.
Initial impression is that the engineers have done a very good job on this new bike.
I am at Ron's watching/helping him with the new bike. I am VERY impressed with the redesign of the bike. The engineers have completely changed everything on the frame. The swing arm and the forks/triple clamps look about the same as last years but everything else is new.
The frame is well thought out with nice welds and neat little castings where it attaches to the front of the motor. The location of the electrical components is very nicely done. The wiring is much simpler, the radiator cap is right out in the open. The air filter is very easy to access and should not fill up with water. The fuel tank and muffler are nicely done. It may take a little time to figure out how to fill the fuel tank.
All in all it looks really good, the proof of the pudding will be in the riding, Ron will let us know.
I used the fat bars on every bike that I owned from 1999 on, they do not bend or break nearly as easily as the 7/8" bars and provide a little bit of flex taking some strain off of the wrists. (I never bent nor broke any of the fat bars, I still have a set in the attic that I used many years ago)
The older Sherco top triple clamp would receive the bolt on clamps so it was just a bolt on with the correct brackets. The newer top bracket could be machined out and modified to receive the fat bars. I have done both with good success. In my opinion it is worth the change.
Well it is a feasable, the Greeves frame is a bit much, yet if tube type, it may well look like an Xispa! Ha, payback time!
I just hope they do not take too much meat out of the bike for the sake of weight.
As there is no perfect bike, there are things I would like to see change in the Sherco's,(andd others) but it makes little difference, as it just seems to me that over time, few of the manufactures are really interested in what the general pub have to say. All the same forces that have driven trials into the wierd looks and no seat opinions from others all along.
Mark, I like the weird no seat look, it gets a lot of questions.
Where is the seat, is that a hill climber, is that a speedway bike etc. I get even more when I am towing it with my Goldwing Trike.
I would hope that there is someone in your area who is an experienced mechanic who could answer all of your questions for you first hand. It is extremely difficult to attempt to diagnose the type of questions that you are asking without being there.
I think you would save yourself some time energy and money by asking a mate, even if you have to pay them. to check out your engine and answer all of your questions.
I was looking on the NATC site and the day 1 results are posted but the day 2 results have not been posted yet, does anyone know when they might be available?
Was it 20 or 19.5? Cannot recall now. I guess yours is later model with the Kiehin? You gotta hold it at about a 45 degree angle to determine when the seat actually hits the needle(without weight of floats) and measure from bowl surface to float arm. They should basically be parallel!
Cope, I measure from the bowl surface to the float, not to the float arm, mine is currently set at around 20mm.
You are such a wise guy. I bought the floor paint today, going with the Rust-oleum commercial. I have to grind the floor before I can etch it because it has been sealed.
I have had my 09 4t for several weeks but because we moved to a new house I have not been able to ride it other than around the neighborhood. Starting has been an issue and I think that I have it figured out, this particular motor wants some throttle. If it does not start hot in two or three kicks, I open the throttle about 1/8 of a turn and it fires right up. Even cold if it does not start in 3 or 4 kicks with the choke on I take the choke off and give it the 1/8 throttle and it starts right up. My 08 was entirely different from this. I have the carb float set at around 20mm and the air screw at 1/2 turn out. Bike runs great after it starts, hopefully I will be able to take it to the club next week.
Wayne, I honestly didn't measure it. I doubt it is under 18. It was a very small amount. I was just trying to get the floats to shut off a bit earlier than they were at the 19 setting. I adjusted in very slight increments till it quit running out the overflow. It was just a bit. In my opinion only, the 19mm measurement is just a bit too much allowing the overflow to come into play.
Correct me if I am wrong but since you are measuring with the float bowl upside down the dimension would probably be 20 rather than 18, do you agree?
I recently had an issue with the Keihin PWK on my 09 3.2 4T. Hard starting when hot and dying going downhill.
Took the carb off at least 4 times, cleaned everything, set the float level and it would still spit fuel out of the overflow. I have used the Keihin on almost all of my bikes since "99" (GG TXT270) plus most of my Sherco's (several). I have never had any problem with the PWK until now. I talked to Ryan and he suggested that I carefully look at the needle seat, he has found small particles there that he had to remove with a dental pick. I took the carb off again and cleaned the seat thoroughly and reset the float (19 mm) holding it at 45 degree angle. It runs great but still occasionally spits a little bit of fuel out of the overflow. On Monday I am going to order a new needle, I noticed a slight groove on the one in the carb. In order to keep the crud out I have installed an inline filter.
It appears that the needle and set as well as the float setting is extremely critical on the Keihin.
If you are having problems with your 2.9 or 3.2 starting and running look very carefully at the needle and seat and the float setting.
I only have a few hours on my 09 4T and started having the same problem. I also noticed fuel dripping out of the overflow tube. It even started dying going down a hill.
I have had the carb off a least half a dozen times and after talking to Ryan took very close note of the float needle and seat, I cleaned the seat EXTREMELY thoroughly and then set the float as Cope stated, put it back together and it is running great. Ryan said that he has found tiny pieces of clear material on the needle seat that he had to use a dental pick to remove.
The needle and float setting on the Keihin seems to be very touchy. I also installed an inline fuel filter again per Cope's suggestion.
2 turns out seems to be very lean, I am running 1/2 turn out on my new 09 and on my 08 I usually ran it at around 5/8 turn out. Sherco recommends 1/2 - 3/4 turns out. If you at 2 turns you may be a bit large on the pilot jet. However if it is starting and running good I would probably leave it alone.
The SPS carb is designed to eliminate hesitation when you whack the throttle, has nothing to do with starting.
I do not know about the 07 but on the 08 the pilot circuit is critical for good starting, set the idle up and set the air screw, if it is the Keihin carb at 1/2 to 3/4 turns out.
I picked up the new 09 3.2 4T on Thursday and it is now in the garage of our new house (new to us).
I followed Ryan's starting suggestion and it started right up, kick it 2 or 3 times with the choke on (until it pops) and then take the choke off, kick it 2 more times and it will start - NO THROTTLE. It worked perfectly, started right up, my wife and I both noticed that it is quieter than the 08, they must have installed the quite pipe on the standard model. The bike looks really good with the white/red color scheme, it also has some nice touches. I think that I will leave the little taillight on and install a switch for the lights. The footpegs are new the center is removed, should stay cleaner. I even received an owners manual along with a took kit, something I have never received before, nice job on Sherco's part.
It is going to be a few days before I will have a chance to test ride it in the woods but hopefully I will be able to ride around the new neighborhood in the next day or so, it is supposed to warm up and maybe the snow will all melt.
I really wouldn't bother with a 320, i've ridden one & a load of other people have who i know & they all hated it, all it does is just wheelspin & viberate like hell.
go for a 290 instead, i would anyday over a 320
that's just my opinion, but it's up to you what you buy.
Ben.
I have owned many 2.9's and one 3.2 and have a new 3.2 on order. I completely disagree with the above comment.
My 08 did not vibrate or have "wheelspin". everyone who rode it loved it!
I would suggest that you take the carburetor off, thoroughly clean it and find out why the float was sticking. Put it back together and set the air screw at 5/8 of a turn out (it should be somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 turns out, 5/8 is a good place to start) run the idle screw up 1 full turn.
Now when you start it do NOT give it any gas! Set the choke, find TDC and give it a meaningful kick, if it has not started after 4 kicks take the choke off and kick it until it starts, you usually do not have to give it any gas. If it it is flooded then tha is another story, usually a few kicks with the throttle wide open will clear it.
Wayne
My 08 started every time unless it had some foreign object in the pilot circuit, that circuit must be kept extremely clean.
I liked the 08 so well that I have an 09 on order, hope to have it in 2 - 3 weeks.
2010 Sherco
in Sherco
Posted
Exactly and you will create stress risers all across the welds top and bottom.
Design a sacrificial plate that can attach to the rad mounting bolt.