juanroberts

Had me going for a while, thinking the next prodigy was coming. Good one.

I got taller aluminum handlebars at a mountain bike store for about $10. My son can now fully stand on the 12.5 without having to crouch down. This helped his confidence greatly.

I used a flat metal file to align the angle of the rear sprocket so that it was parallel with the front sprocket's (a long, slim piece of glass could also work). On the older 12.5 version, I also used washers in the rear to make sure the rear sprocket was flush with the front sprocket. Ever since, I adjust the chain tesioners screws with the same number of turns on each side (that way I do not have to check alignment everytime) and roll a screwdriver between the rear sprocket and chain to tension the system before tightening down the axle nuts. This whole process helped minimize the chain coming off unless its really loose, which is more of a problem on the 12.5 maybe because it has a warped rear sprocket. I also oil the chain every 4-5 long rides to keep its noise and wear down. 1 stone = 16 pounds 3.5 stone = 56 pounds I went to Baja last week. My kids there were able to ride gas bikes there, and the wife followed around on the 16.0. OSETS are very versatile bikes!

I left the stock grips alone on the 16.0 However, on the 12.5, they are too big for my 3-year olds hands, so I cut them off and slipped in a couple of cut inner tubes from a 10-speed bicycle. This was in order to have the diameter as small as possible for their little hands. We have gone through 2 sets of batteries on the 12.5, and one on the 16.0. Batteries last about 100 cycles, so that will tell you how durable the bikes are. The only thing that has had to be replaced have been rear tires, and a throttle. I just got four batteries for about $80 on ebay. I use the same batteries as used on the older-version 16.0 on the 12.5, they barely fit, but last longer.

I have not started yet. Thanks.

Motofire, how do you take the front fork spring out? There is a white plastic part under the fork boot, but I am not sure how to pop it out so that the fork springs are released. A step-by-step would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. John

Dan, On the bungees, I tied them to the front portion of the frame, because to each other did provid as much snap. I use cable from the footpeg to the front of the skidplate and then bungee to the frame tube above that. I since bought OSET's spring-loaded footpegs and they work like a charm. Its the same footpeg, only dremeled in the center for a spring to fit in. I used teflon-coated cables from a bike shop, lightly oiled them, and the brakes are easier now. The handlebar endcaps are trick. I used a motor oil cap duct taped on the throttle side, and an inner tube as a sleeve on the other side, with tassles of course. I would have thought a longer stem would be better. My daughter (and now son) always crouch so much to reach the bars on the 12.5 while standing, they have a hard time. I could be wrong. However, my daughter on the moment she moved up to the 16.0, could ride standing like a natural, and its bars are much higher. He is 3 and she is 5. Nice aftermarket brakes. John

>>Have you used an optimate to charge the batteries or do you charge them on the bike ? No, I always charge them while on the bike. >>The reason why I ask is because I have bought a spare set of batteries for my sons Oset 16 (36 volt). Are you in SoCal? I would not mind trying it out. >>Also whats the score on the charging front as I didnt get a manual with mine due to it being a demo bike. I did not understand. It takes about 4 hours to charge them, but it depends on the use they got. >>I have the 36 volt mains charger which has a red light on it whilst plugged in. Do I have to wait for this to turn green before the batteries are fuly charged ?? The light goes green on the 24V models' charger once the battery is fully charged. You do not have to wait if they are lead acid batteries, since they have no "memory", but you will get more riding time if you do. >>Or is it the lights on the throttle that turn green ?? No, the throttle lights only indicate that the key is turned on, and they do not turn green. They are supposed to also indicate amount of charge on the batteries, but it only works once the batteries are so drained that it is already obvious. When under full throttle, the throttle lights tend to indicate battery drain a little earlier (they go down as throttle is applied towards the 3/4-end of the battery drain). Here is an idea, hide batteries at the midpoint of a long trail loop and plug them to a solar panel charger.

I have installed batteries off an older version 16.0 on the 12.5. The only difference is that the old ones were 8a and the new ones are 10a and a little taller, so they are snug but also last a little longer. My son used to be afraid of the 12.5's power, and now he now loves turning that throttle, so the battery drains faster, but still lasts well over an hour on trails. What is funny is that he is still too small for a 50, yet can really ride this thing. After nearly 2 years of riding the Oset 12.5, finally something broke: the throttle gave out. I was able to get a replacement sent to me right away and it is as good as new (Oset service remains A+) and I upgraded to spring-loaded footpegs for $20, which now work like a charm. During the past 1.75 years, we rode the OSETs at least once a week and went through one 12.5 rear tire. So it got used about 100 times on mountain bike trails, for about 1.5 hours each time. Other than that, the only other costs have been related to chain lube and plugging in the charger. I used teflon-coated bicycle cables for easier braking. I wish gas bikes were this cheap and easy to maintain.

I recommend putting Slime in the inner tubes (its the green goo sold for putting toinner tubes). On the USA's middle East Coast, there is a plant called Greenbrier that can creep on trails and has thorns. I did not have a problem with my own dirt motorcycle, but it was a real problem on my mountain bike until I bought inner tubes that had slime in them, and then the problem went away. I would not expect it to work as well on nail-sized thorns though.

I can tell you are all a bunch of cool dads, not forcing your kids, etc. Standing is very hard for kids to get, I agree. I have yet to find something that works, but consistent with Mark, I often refer to Oliver and how HE is always standing. Standing is a concept that even grown ups have difficulty with, until monkeybutt sets in. Ridenm, in terms of dropping the training wheels, try taking the pedals off a bicycle, in addition to the training wheels. Then take your son for a 15-minute paddle-ride, on two separate days (kids have short attention spans). That should help engrain his sense of balance. I heard that a larger motor may work, such as a 36V 1000W motor and a 100amp Navitas TSP100 36 controller. The controller itself can give the existing 16.0 plenty of power, I have been told. The NiMH batteries can catch fire; and no news on whether the A123 Li-Ions work, although they are the only ones that reportedly can put out enough amps.

OSET has the best service and prices I have seen. That said, I am providing links to additional products that may complement OSET products. OSET has the most inexpensive and best-suited trials tires: http://www.osetbikes.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?...ory_Code=prts12 Great tires but out of stock: http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=35786 http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=35787 Two very aggressive MX tires, but do the 12's fit? http://www.tiresunlimited.com/images/Innov...va-3203-blk.jpg http://www.tiresunlimited.com/images/Innov...va-3202-blk.jpg http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/...a_3202_3203.htm Parts for pocket bikes such as sprockets, which may or may not actually fit: http://www.electricscooterparts.com/sprockets.html#25 These guys seem to have the same trials tire as OSET OEM, and is more expensive. The also sell solid urethane tires: http://www.electricscooterparts.com/tires.html

Kinell, where exactly did you apply the superglue and what is it expected to do? The bungees I mentioned were attached to the footpegs on one side, and the bottom of the opposite forward frame tube on the other, making an "X" under the skidplate. There are there so the footpegs snap back and do not stick in an upright position. Both my our 12.5 and 16.0 had footpegs that pivot out of the way when they hit something when it forward motion, a good thing because a foot can get caught in between both. If a pivoting footpeg does not snap back after having been pushed out of the way, then my kids would try to put their feet down and not find a footpeg there, a potentially dangerous situation. Grownup dirtbikes with pivoting footpegs come with a spring that makes them snap back. The OSETs do not have a spring on the footpeg. Where can you get the Creepy Crawlers in the OSET rim sizes? Thanks. Scott, Congratulations on finding an aftermarket 16.0. I recommed leaving it at home so you can ride it, and then that way you get more grankid visits! I was not impressed with the performance of the stock rotor. I would not hesitate to go to a bicycle shop and buy a new one the same size. It is the best investment you can make. It should not cost more than $35, or $10 online from http://www.blueskycycling.com but then you have to add shipping to that. Install the rotor bolts by using a cross-pattern but you may find that the hub itself may be warped or crooked, and if so, then you may just have to bend the rotor into alignment with your fingers by using a marker or screwdriver to detect the wobble as the wheel spins. A very tiny wobble is OK since this is not a bicycle. I used locktite on the two bolts that hold the caliper, and after tightening them, loosened them by one turn so the caliper was free to float. This was on a larger aftermarket rotor and caliper with adapter which said to do so on the instructions, I am not sure if that would work on the stock version. I forgot to mention I had to hammer a dent in the fork when installing my larger rotor so that it would fit with room to spare. On a separate note, I noticed that the stock bolts holding the rotor did not stick to a magnet and were very light compared to the replacement ones that came with the new rotor, so I wonder what the heck they are made out of. They were not aluminum, maybe titanium?

GRIPS: I cut the grips off and replaced them with a bicycle inner tubes so my daughter could get her hands around it. I used an oil quart cap duct taped over the accelerator end for protection, and tied the inner tube into a knot on the left side, with cut tassles for my daughter's enjoyment of course. This also keeps dirt out of the throttle tube. GOVERNOR ACCESS: I used a heat shrinkwrap tube over the governor to extend is out because I kept losing the small screwdrivers, did not want them in my pocket while I chased my kids, messed up the dial by turning too hard, etc. Ian sent me one for free, Ian at OSET provides AAA service, hands down. Someone else mentioned the cap next to the key may be removed for hand access also. OSET 16.0 BATTERY: It is reportedly bigger than on the 12.5, but it seems to run out of power faster. I have not tested this hypothesis which was also raised by lastplacebrad: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....5259&st=15# Ian's newsletter suggests that the wire connecting the two batteries on the 16.0 may not be thick enough on some of the 16.0's. You can check it against the other cable wires, it should be as thick, and not thinner. My daughter is 4 and can ride up and down hills for hours with no problem. However, when I ride, I am always pegged and drain the battery in about an hour. OSET 16.0 Brakes: I changed the front disk for a new one (identical to bicycle specifications and cost as little as $10). That was plenty, but because the front caliper adapter is similar to my Specialized Enduro 2005 mountain bike, I then got a 205mm (larger) rotor, caliper, and adapter. As a result, I can make the 16.0 come to a complete stop from full speed in less than a bike length. Stoppies are too easy now. TIRE SLIP Because the OSET does not have rimlocks, I often find the valve stem is angled instead of popping out perpendicular to the rim. I put talcum powder on the inner tube, sanded the tire bead, and sanded the inside of the rim's edge. FOOTPEGS: I used bungee cord to make sure the footpegs snap back. I am looking into possible foot-activated brake pedals that may be welded on. POSSIBLE ADDITIONAL MOD: I am tempted to get lighter and longer-lasting Li-Ion batteries, but they run at about $400. Here is a possible for the 16.0: http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?Page...amp;ProdID=3327

I had the same problem. My daughter just whacked the throttle and I could not get her to do otherwise. I then stumbled on some magic drill on a website, probably on thumpertalk. With the OSET turned off, have her (him) roll the throttle. She will whack it. Then hold your hands straight out in front of your hips with the palms pointed upwards (as if lifting a table). Slowly bring your hands up above your shoulders and then slowly back down. Ask her to roll the throttle at the same rate. After about 4 tries, it was obvious my daughter had fully turned the throttle before my hands had gotten past my stomach level. When she was able to roll the throttle slow enough to be finished at the same rate as I raised my hands to head level, and was able to roll it back as slow as I put them back to my hip level, I the let her do it about 4 more times for practice. Since then, she rolls, not whacks the throttle. When you see how gently she rolls out nowadays, you will see the throttle works just fine, its a matter of technique. My only peave about the throttle is that when the governor is set to soft, the throttle has a lot of dead twist before power comes on. This is difficult for a little guy to turn the throttle halfway with nothing, and then all of a sudden, ZAP, a big shot of acceleration. I use a 1/4-inch-width duct tape strip wrapped a few times and then out to the handlebars to keep it from goind back all the way into the dead zone.