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juanroberts

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About juanroberts

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    http://www.sactopits.org
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  • Bike
    Montesa 4RT

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  • Location
    California
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    Male

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  1. Tried ether, and the ratchet tie down method. I an leaving it with an inflated tube overnight. If this fails, I will have to get the beader and wait for it to arrive.
  2. I had Paul Master replicate his build on my 20.0 and it rides like a dream now. I had bought a first generation 20.0 that was unrideable. I even got a new controller from OSET and it helped, but still was not any fun. Paul is known in our trials club as the EcoTrials guy because he made an electric trials bike from a Montesa a long, long time ago. Then he did it with a 20.0 about 2-3 years ago. He uses an Alltrax controller that can manage huge amounts of current (designed for a golf cart) and is programable, in tandem with a Magura throttle. The mapping is so tame and predictable off the bottom that I can perfectly control and balance on turns now, and it ramps up to full power in the last 1/8 of the throttle which allows me to do zaps, go up stairs, etc. I am using EarthX batteries despite their limited capacity just because they have management chips in them. What can I say, my son burned the last set by leaving the bike on, and the EarthX are pretty foolproof. The Montesa: http://www.evalbum.com/3036 The OSET: http://electrictrials.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg166#msg166
  3. This was posted in another forum by a fellow clubmember I highly respect on the matter of electric trials bikes: "I had been working on a new 48V battery pack for the Kawasaki, but it still wasn't quite ready for running on a bike, so I also opted to purchase the Earth-X batteries advertised for the Oset 48V bikes. However, be aware that the 18Ah set that I bought is now being advertised as 6Ah. When I emailed Earth-X about this, their VP of sales said that they ALWAYS notify customers that the 18Ah claim is for equivalent existing lead-acid batteries for comparison purposes, and that in the case where you are using the batteries to propel the bike, the rating is 6Ah. THAT is total BS. I was never informed of this information, and would NOT have purchased these batteries had I been informed. I find this kind of advertising reprehensible and am really upset with Earth-X. The VP has essentially blown me off. What you get with the Earth-X is a much lighter weight pack (VERY considerable), and a much flatter voltage drop as the battery level drops with use. However, for me, the more than $600 was a waste. Your mileage may vary. I could have focused on getting my own pack completed. Live and learn I guess, but I will never deal with any Earth-X product again." I do not disagree with what was stated and it holds true for most people. In my particular case, since I have young kids, the self contained safety feature of the EarthX makes them worth it to me. Before this I used to use the HobbyKing lithiums until one day my son left the bike on and the batteries drained completely and became worthless. Can someone recreate the EarthX for less cost? Yes, its very likely. Do I have the time and patience to do it? I would rather just ride. :-)
  4. This is a belated update. I put in new EarthX lithium batteries and the 20.0 stopped cutting out on the uphills. Afterward I swapped the controller with one OSET was nice enough to send and that appeared to remove about half of the throttle hesitation.
  5. I bought the EarthX for our stock, first-generation OSET 20.0. We were at the Mike Fenner Memorial Trial in Sacramento, CA yesterday, and the bike seemed to run for one-and-a-half loops before its battery appeared to run out. We ran half of a loop and started in section five, so technically the EarthX batteries lasted 15 sections out of 30, but ran 2 loops out of 3. The con is they are expensive. The pro is that they are light, maintenance free, and work with the stock charger.
  6. This is a good topic. These days I let no new riders (including neighbor kids, etc), touch an OSET unless they have done a series of tests first. I guess I have learned the hard way. Things I do before lending the bike to a new rider: 1) The first of these tests is to check for the new rider's ability to give it full throttle and hold the rear brake tight enough so that the bike will not go anywhere. 2) With the kickstand, I lean the bike over so that the rear tire is in the air, and have the new rider show me throttle control: very slowly increasing and backing off the throttle, as well as the ability to "whack" it to full throttle and immediately back off. 3) Show an ability to find the rear brake quickly after my prompting a few times. 4) Be able to ride a short distance and then slam on the rear brake hard. Yet, once, I turned my back on my son as I spoke with a neighbor for a second, and before I knew it, his son rode past us and slammed into a parked car. How did this happen? My son had let him get on the bike for a moment and then the magic of "whiskey throttle" whisked the unwitting boy away. Glad he did not get seriously hurt. My kids now know to not let other kids get on or even touch the bike with the ignition on.
  7. You may have gotten the second generation 20. I heard the mapping instead of being 100W was going to be 75W or something like that. If you are referring to the speed switch, its sets the top speed. While the rear wheel is in the air (on a stand), give it full throttle, and while the rear wheel is spinning, turn the switch and the speed of the rear wheel should change. The new 2nd generation 20 model supposedly has a third adjustment which my older model does not have, so if that is what you are taking about, I cannot help you. Good luck.
  8. I have had to replace a few throttles as they tend to go quite predictably after a few hundred hours of use. You can test for this by short-circuiting the throttle wires and see if the rear wheel kicks in at 100% power (be prepared by setting the bike on a sturdy stand). Its also a very cheap replacement, and I have even used many aftermarket throttles. Unless you are a highly-qualified expert, I would highly recommend that taking the motor apart be the last option, and even then after diagnosing it. I thought I would "clean" mine (I later learned it was just tired out batteries) and then had no chance of putting it back together again as its very difficult, and ended up buying a new one. Other than my mistake, the motors have always been working very well. Let us know how it goes.
  9. The motor on the 20.0 on uphills dies now. Not sure if it is a circuit breaker protecting the integrity of the motor and electricals, but it did not use to do this and it does so all over the place now, even on hills where it did not do it before. The other thought is that maybe the batteries are dying and its trying to protect them, although I doubt it a little because we have hardly used the bike and always keep it fully charged. The problem is that when the power goes out, it goes out for a few seconds, so if we are in the middle of a hill climb, its not a good place to get a sudden abandonment of power. Thoughts?
  10. Nice pic. Where is South Lakes? I would go with a 36V. In the meantime, go to a bike shop and get riser handle bars. They are about $20 and if you get them in aluminum, they are easy to cut the ends to the right size. http://www.jensonusa.com/images/Default-Image/Zoom/779/HB409A10.jpg
  11. I ran into some cheap $6 bicycle mudguards on Ebay, for what its worth: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mountain-Road-Bike-Cycling-Bicycle-Front-Rear-Fender-Black-and-Red-/390577831695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af040bf0f
  12. I had the 24V OSET 16.0, and I purchased the 36V swingarm kit from OSET and yes, it did fit (not 100% sure that is where you are getting your swingarm?). I needed the upgrade too because I had previously taken the 24V motor apart to clean it hoping it would improve what had been a deteriorating performance (I then found out cleaning was not required, but new batteries were), but alas, the magnet was impossible for me to put back together. On the positive side, it meant the rear band brake was upgraded to a disc brake. I also went to LIPOs at a higher amperage, and the lighter weight plus higher punch was fabulous. On the negative side, when I received the "36V" kit, which includes an upgraded controller, the motor itself had a sticker that said "24V". And there is nothing about it on the outside that was different from the older 24V motor I had taken apart. What I would do is just get the controller upgrade, add an additional battery (or go to LIPOs), and run the 24V motor at 36V. It seems others on this list have done this and none has reported a burnt motor "yet". Cheers.
  13. I had a 20.6mm-thick 15mm socket ground down to just below 20mm and it now slides in. However, the nut holding the clutch basket will not come loose. I already tried dropping rope in down the spark plug hole, and even used an impact/power socket. Lastly, I tried it in reverse to see if the nut was a reverse thread and had no luck. Any suggestions on which way the threads go (normal vs backwards)? Thanks!
  14. I have a wobbly clutch basket, suppose the bearings are giving in, so the gear is not engaging. I have been having a hard time in the US finding a 15mm socket with an outer diameter that is 20mm or less (I measured the nut hole to just a hair over 20mm). Not even on Sears or Ebay. I may have to take a 15mm socket and have it ground down in a machine shop, or buy a grinder. And by the way, the bike was bought used and had only two of the four clutch springs, and when it ran, it ran fine and the clutch engaged great.
  15. I sure looked around the internet for the bike (there is a separate thread for the full sized electric trials bikes) and could not find a way to purchase one, but I admit there may be a language barrier. One the controller, I looked at it today and did not find a plug on it, maybe the programmable part comes later, or requires the case to be opened? I did disconnect the governor, and short-circuited it, but that did not get rid of the hesitation. It seems that with it disconnected the powerband takes 5 seconds to build up, and with it short wired, it takes about 1/3 of a second, the exact same result as if the governor was cranked all the way in, or out. I did at least bend the metal tab the governor is mounted on so that the dial pin is a little more in the center so that it is easier to adjust in the future.
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