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waynerobshaw

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About waynerobshaw

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Gas Gas 300 Racing

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  • Location
    In the rain!
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Time Left: 2 months and 11 days

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Gas Gas TXT Pro 280cc 2007 - GasGas Stunning bike in great condition with receipts. Genuine bike with frame stamps. Lots of new parts with a great engine that starts on the first kick everytime. New parts and not yet been ridden: - Brand new chain - Brand new full set of decals - Brand new grips - Brand new rim tapes - Brand new number board Just serviced and not yet been ridden: - Gearbox oil changed - Air filter cleaned and re-oiled - Airbox fully cleaned - Coolant changed - Carburettor stripped and cleaned - Throttle cleaned and lubricated - End-can silencer cleaned and polished General: - Recent Renthal bars and clamps - Suspension in fresh condition - Marzocchi front forks in great condition - Fan works correctly without any noise - Gearbox and clutch are super smooth - Genuine bike with intact frame stamp - Fork seal in good condition without leaks The photos speak for themselves, all in all, a beautiful bike. More photos on request. Offers around: £1450 Bring a helmet and come and try her out in our 4 acre wood! - Genuine buyers only! Contact Wayne on 07396 049800 after 6pm weekdays or text or Email any time. Call anytime at weekends: wayne@wr2.co.uk Located in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire.

    1,450.00 GBP

  2. Great to hear! Maybe see you their soon!
  3. Hi Richard, As Oni has already said, the the tensioner block should be about 2cm off the swing arm. Have you changed now to a smaller rear sprocket and shortened the chain? Hope you're having fun! Cheers, Wayne.
  4. Should that be Dovecliffe not Westwood? Also, do you know what time the evening trials kick off? 6:30pm?
  5. You can download an parts manual from the GasGas website: http://www.gasgasmotos.es/us/manuals/models-1-2001.html but no owners manual I'm afraid. The brake discs (rotors) are floating so there should be some movement. I think the older bikes tend to have more float. There are washers that hold the disc on but allow float, as long as these aren't bent, the float should all be normal. Cheers Wayne.
  6. If you follow my procedure above together with warming up the airbox connection, i'm sure you'll find the carb will connect better. Also, make sure that the carb is fully pushed into the airbox even if this means you're having to pull it out of the engine side a little.
  7. Assuming its running a Delorto carb, there should be a rubber ring adapter on the carb-to-airbox side: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/gasgas-pro-dellorto-phbl26-adaptor.html Is that present? The carb is close to the engine casing but it shouldn't touch. Also, when refitting the carb and air box, i uses the following procedure: Slacken the engine/carb jubilee clip. Offer up the airbox to the carb and if need be, pull the carb out of the engine side to aid entry to the airbox (if necessary, warm up the airbox rubber with a heat gun to soften it) Once the carb is inserted properly into the airbox, push the airbox and carb back into the engine. Locate the 4 bolts holding on the seat/airbox. Re-align carb if the angle has moved. Tighten both jubilee clips Tighten the 4 airbox screws. Cheers, Wayne.
  8. Done also! I'd have to insure my ride on mower to cut my own grass...let alone, insure my bike to ride it in my own woodland! Glad I've just sold my lads off road buggy otherwise that would be another policy! Insurance companies rape us enough without another imposed set of policies to buy! Blame all the "no win, no fee" scams etc for all this utter nonsense! If you've ever claimed for anything under such circumstances, hang your head in shame!
  9. My headlights gone much the same way (only 2 LED lit). Did you manage a repair or a replacement?
  10. To help anyone else with similar symptoms, the final solution was a motor rebuild (new brushes). It would appear that the relay won't switch if the controller sees open circuit on the motor. The controller and electrics tested fine, so the whole issue was down to the motor. Many thanks to gwhy for all his help.
  11. I'm referred to the engine kicking the starter back and not back firing...I must admit I'm more gentle on kicking the Sherco over my Gassers, the kickstart seem so small and brittle...I'll give it my full weight from now on ;-) Not wanting to start a war but I've never had a GasGas kick back ever...over 20 different bikes and years!
  12. Hi All, I've had 5 sherco's (mainly 2005's and 2006's) over the last few years, and nearly everyone kicked back. I've tried retarding the timing, but it doesn't really improve. The only thing that fixed one bike was a new Stator. Only problem is, the bike I have now has had a stator recently but even retarding the ignition, it still kicksback. Is it just a quirk of Shercos or am I missing something. I would appear from reading posts on here that its really hit and miss, some bikes kickback, some bikes dont.. Any other pointers, let me know... Cheers, Wayne.
  13. Many thank for testing that....damn....I've now totally removed all the controller, the associated wiring and the motor and boxed it up to send to OSET. I'll still send it all to them I think as they offered to test it all. Wish I'd known that before stripping the wiring back...hope I can get it all back together! I'll keep you posted with what happens...I've learnt something anyway, no motor, no relay! There very little technical info online, so hopefully this will all be useful to someone else in the future. Thanks again for taking the time to test that and all the other help you've given!
  14. From bad to worse, now checked the motor (orange/blue wire to a battery) and nothing...even went as far as applying all 48v, nothing... Looks like the motor zapped and its taken the controller with it! Both motor and entire electrics on its way to OSET...I'll keep you posted.
  15. No power to the red/black wires of the speed pot, I can't easily check the throttle as the go into a 3 pin twist connector and I don't know which is red/black. When I powered the relay direct, the wheel wouldn't spin and the LED's on the throttle stay static (no visible drop in power). Controller looks buggered I suppose I'll have word with OSET today and see what they say...
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