sorry Keith not been on here for a while so missed your post ? , with the weather and having to sort kids etc etc ive not even had chance to have a look at mine yet but good to hear yours is sorted i will take your advice and hopefully get mine checked in the next week fingers crossed solve the problem
i spoke to alan @ feetup trialsport , the mechanic @ acklams and also John @ lampkins and all 3 said straight away its the fan regulator so thats why changed it will do as you say double check the connections and check for a decent earth , thanks
Thanks Gents , ive already replaced the fan regulator ( placed ontop of gearbox ) have to remove rear shock to get to one of the fixing bolts takes a lot longer than 1st thought lol but it doesnt seem to have made a difference so thats why wondering if other peoples bikes do the same ??
after a bit of advice , noticed my fan was playing up a bit the other week and noticed that when i rev the bike the fan slows right down till stopped (3/4 revs )and when i let the bike go back to just tick over the fan goes full speed ?? the fan comes on and off as it should but wondered if the change in speed was correct ??
You can't have had one on a rev 4, they don't fit. The arrow exhaust is mega but is only for the evo.
the one i had must not have been a arrow one ??? it was one of only a few brought into the country from Italy by a friend of a friend thinking back it must have been just a factory exhaust ???? but the power etc was very very similar to the arrow i have fitted now ???
Got to be the arrow exhaust ?? expensive but well worth it for the sound , powergain and smoothness cant recommend it enough had one on my rev 4 and got one on my evo 300 4t the difference is very noticable you wont be dissappointed
I had same problem ?? if the tapping increases with the revs mine turned out to be one of the bolts holding the chain pulley wheel had worked loose because the factory hadnt put any thread lock on ?? once you get the engine dropped a bit so you can get the top off its a quick 5 min fix its dropping and replacing engine thats the issue ??? i just took sump guard off and undid the frame brackets next to radiator this allowed the engine to drop forward to create enough room to get in and sort all in all about 1.5 hours work ??? good luck
Keep a eye on scarborough and district motor club website at the moment it's saying to be confirmed but unfortunately I don't know it's location of the trial
The only plus was beta have re positioned the stator in the evos to just inside cover so only a 5 min job to change complete unit , would have thought beta would have corrected the issues by know all I can say is thank god for Lampkins support
Only if I stop really quickly and the fuel swishes around and a bit comes out the breather tube but nothing major ??? Suspect this would happen with most bikes ??
you're not alone with this one,some of the local riders have had this.One of them measured the diameter of the tyre where it touches the rim,and told me it was 4mm larger than the old tyre.He was refunded,you might like to measure your tyre and compare.Shame cos irc is the best for our conditions.
Just measured my IRC that I kept when I swapped back to mich it also would leak when I rode it and it too is 4mm bigger at the point that touches the rim think I will be back to shop at weekend to see if anything can be done ???
Mine was same as you curt531 ended up putting old tyre back on :-( but due a new one soon so fingers crossed going for a mich this time same as what's supplied with bike so fingers crossed
Used a IRC for last 4 years had no issues at all in fact prefered them to any other tyre had them fitted on both my last 2 betas now have a 2010 300 4 stroke and I've had same problem the IRC just keeps going flat now back on the original michilin but that struggled to hold pressure so ended up with a inner tube fitted :-( it's been suggested the rim may be slightly to small cause when the shop has tried installing tyres they just don't pop very well onto the rim when 1st inflated spoke to lamkins who have told me to drop the wheel off for them to check so hopefully will find out soon ??
Update : been out for 3 hours tonight bike revs out perfectly lots of big hill climbs no issues at all seems to have more mid range and top end power and just seems to generally run better so thanks again Ralphy and would suggest to anyone else to alter the needle valve as per Ralphy's instructions :-)
Jsp - I was having similar probs as you but have moved the needle valve as per NZRalphy's instructions mentioned earlier (cheers Ralph ) now seems to rev out cleanly ( in garage ) hope to ride mid week and fingers crossed I hope it should rev nicely under load ??
I have never had to remove an air box to get a carb out.....
Remove the seat/guard and Photograph all the cables and tubes!!!!!!!
loosen both front and rear carb clamps a lot and undo the throttle cable.
Push the carb forward real hard! ....and twist the rear outwards slowly. (Assemble in reverse order and use a blunt pencil to 'help' the rear boot over the carb)
With the carb on the bench carefully remove the screws that hold the black cap on the top of the carb. Note to use a new/good screw driver!
Under the black cap is a VERY thin rubber bellows and in the middle is a white throttle slide. The needle is in the slide. You shouldn't have to remove the bellows but don't worry if you do. There is a small lock that keeps the needle in place, remove this and the needle.
The needle has a row of grooves near the top, note a 'C' clip is in one of the grooves. You need to move the clip. When you remove the clip it WILL shoot across the room and be lost! Be careful (and have a spare handy).
So the taper points down, and you want to raise the needle to richen the mixture..... so?!?!?..... (teacher asks question)...you want to....... lower the clip.
I lowered mine all the way to the bottom groove. Do the same, but remember every bike is different so if the bike does a weird 'blub blub blub' rich-mixture noise you'll have to go back one notch.
When you put the top cap back on the carb please please please take your time to make sure the rubber bellows sits correctly in the small grove. Work slowly and check if you are not sure BEFORE tightening the screws
Cheers Ralphy will do this when i get back off hoilday in 2 weeks The only reason i took airbox off was cause i needed to turn rear suspension round so i could get to the adjuster as it had been put on the wrong way round from the factory so found it easier to take it off while i was at it
Will let you know how I get on Bob but going on holiday for 2 weeks on Friday so don't think will get chance before I go but seems strange how quite a few people are having the same issues so hoping somebody will throw some light on the situation so I have a idea what to do when I get back ???
Ill give it a go, does the carb come off easy enough when air box and exhaust is removed?
The carb comes out a lot easier with the airbox and backbox off and also undo the top of the rear suspension its still a pain to do compared to the rev 3's as everything is so compact,im having similar issues with mine found a little moisture in connections for CDI so dried it out and cleaned the terminals but its not made that much difference
NZ - being a bit thick here when it comes to setting up carb but which is the needle valve and how do you raise it ?
The only reason i took airbox off was cause i needed to turn rear suspension round so i could get to the adjuster as it had been put on the wrong way round from the factory so found it easier to take it off while i was at it 
Evo 2010 4 Stroke
in Beta
Posted
sorry Keith not been on here for a while so missed your post ? , with the weather and having to sort kids etc etc ive not even had chance to have a look at mine yet but good to hear yours is sorted i will take your advice and hopefully get mine checked in the next week fingers crossed solve the problem