Jump to content

ollys

Members
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ollys

  • Rank
    New Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    GASGAS 200 Pro
  1. Panic over, it just took a bit of repeated "gentle" persuasion . . . .
  2. Roght . . . . Got most of the fork apart . . . . as per the video, right up to where he just pulls the inner leg from the outer and the seal comes out. Mine hasn't. I've taken out the dust seal and the wire retaining thingy, hoever the seal seems tight in there and wont come up so I can't pull hte inner fork from the outer one. Any ideas? lol
  3. Awesome link dude, cheers I assume it wil be the same technique as the guy shows for an 05 model?
  4. Hi, searched a bit but can't find the answer im after What is the best method for changing fork seals? My 200pro is peeing oil out of one fork seal. I have the replacement seals, and some fork oil . . . do I need anything else? And also, what method to use to do it? I was thinking, undo the retaining bolts on the yoke and drop the forks, front wheel et al out, and then . . . . . I have no idea lol How much oil I believe is in te sparceley populated user manual I downloaded form the gasgas site, but there is no instruction as to how to actually change the seals and top up the forks etc Any help much appreciated
  5. Ta for the reply dude, thought it might be the master cylinder not being fully open. Seem to have sorted it for now . . . the brakes work, for now lol. Tomorrow will tell
  6. Just been trying to re-bleed my brakes cos after a bike shop had it and replaced the pads, it started spitting out fluid all over my back wheel last time I went out until the Master Cylinder Res emptied!! Also I noticed a drip coming out from where the rubber hose joins the master cylinder res (just looked like they had pushed it on too far) So, started with brake system completely empty. Took top off resevoir. Connected my syringe to bleed nipple. Tried pushing fluid in . . . . . and nothing. Couldn't even budge the syringe Tried it with the brake pedal depressed and not depressed, no difference. Does anybody know the cause for this? Reverse bleeding seems to be the best way, but everytime I tried it with my clutch like this it failed aswell. Just couldnt push the syringe. Is it something to do with the adjustment of the master cylinder "plunger" (technical term) Does it have to be adjusted right out/in?
  7. Hi, yeah its 2005, I am using LHM Mineral oil (from the GG supplier) The teeth seem fairly well angled out, my only concerns with those was that the small ends on the top 3 seemed like they had a bit of scoring and one lower left one felt like it wasnt moving very freely. Off to try and get a 7mm star shaped socket so I can properly take it apart now . . . . . . .
  8. Ta for this mate, I'll give it another crack on lunchbreak
  9. Got a bit of a noobish problem . . . Took the clutch housing off last night, and wasnt sure whether to take the clutch plate setup apart due to the GG star shaped nuts (I only had a molegrip to do this, is it ok if I use those? Is there a special tool?) So I opted for not doing it, however whilst there I replaced the 2 O-rings under the top hat thing as a couple of people said that might have been the problem. Put the clutch housing back on with a new gasket etc, all did up fine but when it came to bleeding the clutch through I couldnt get rid of te air in it. Spent near on 1.5 hours trying to no avail. Even when I took the top off the slave cylinder completely to try and get fluid through from the master, it was only coming through in small drips and just blowing air through. This seems odd, and the level in the master cylinder would not go down at all. Tried reverse bleeding it, with syringe on the slave and trying to push the fluid up through the system, but that would not work. The syringe wouldnt let me pump any in at all, even with the bleed nipple wound quite far out also. What have I done wrong!? Would it be something to do with how I put the top hat/actuator pin back together? Help . . . . Something else I noticed whilst dabbling was that the clutch release springs (I think - metal prong shaped things pointing in in a circle) had a bit of wear on the top 3-4 but no wear on the bottom. Also, one of them seemed stiff. Could this have been a cause of the heavy clutch?
  10. ^^^ 'Factory Kev' said that his first thought was that the clutch had been installed incorrectly. Will check it out after the weekend. Ta for the info chaps
  11. Ta PeterB, more things to look out for. Just replaced the pump in the master cylinder (rubber gasket was ripped and adrift) so i can cross that off the list. Bled it through thoroughly, defo no air in there and it still feels pretty much the same (although maybe slightly better but just might be me imagining things). Il check the hose also. The guy who had it before me had been running it on Dexron 2 ATF, probably for quite a while however he put new clutch plates and 'seals' in before he sold it to me. Could this be a cause of the clutch plates swelling as it is of a less dense consistency than 10w40 proper oil, and would it have happened that quickly? He also said to only put 400cc's in each oil change (after every session I ride), and in the manual I found online for an '04 model it said 550cc's of 10w40. My thoughts as to why only 400cc's of ATF is that it will expand mor than 10w40, is this correct? I think after next sundays trial it may be time to fully take the clutch apart, measure tolerances etc. P.S It drags quite a lot too unless I have the lever right into the handle bars. Is this also a sign of clutch plates swelling?
  12. Just spoke to the guy who had it before me, and he said he did a full rebuild on it before I bought it. His explanation of the heavy clutch was 'you just get that with some models'. Its an '05 Pro model, so I thought the clutch would have been featherlight. His only suggestion was to put a bigger master cylinder on it like one off a GG Enduro bike to get a lighter feeling clutch. Has anybody heard of this or had experience doing it? Id rather not needlessly rebuild my whole clutch if I can get a lighter feel just by replacing the master cylinder.
  13. Im going to be attempting a clutch rebuild on my TxtPro200 as it has a heavy action, and hopefully this will rectufy it. Any advice for things I should look out for as I haven't done this before?
  14. Thats pretty much why I wanted them My bike still tries to pull when the clutch is mostly in (1 or 2 fingers on top and 3 underneath), and still even pulls a tiny bit when its fully in to the bar Its a new clutch, so its still got a while until it wears in fully (little bit too stiff to use one finger) but i want to ensure that I can use only 1 finger whatever happens with it. Currently I have the 13cm AJP ones on Any suggestions of where to find shorty ones? Where/what shop do the part numbers relate to?
  15. How short can you get levers for an '05 200 pro? Also, does anyone know of any suppliers? The only ones I've seen are AJP ones, and they done look that short. Might just be deceptive pics tho
×
×
  • Create New...