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wezzo

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Everything posted by wezzo

  1. wezzo

    Majesty Frame Number

    Thank you for confirming that the format is as per Majesty. Yes I had kind of guessed that it was probably a Nov '81 bike. The 'B' suggesting it is a mini Majesty adds up as well as the frame rails are straight and its a bugger getting an engine into such a small space.
  2. I have what I believe is a Majesty frame but wondered if anyone could verify the format to confirm what it is. The number is 81 11 01 B. The frame appears to have originally been painted yellow. I am assuming it’s a Godden version. Any help appreciated
  3. Teamferret. Yes that's a good point.I had that problem on my Cub when I dropped the size of the primary sprocket. I guess it's probably best to stay conservative on the primary sprocket and experiment with the final drive ratios then
  4. I have an 8E Villiers engine I’m looking to use and wondered if anyone could give me some advice on primary gearing. I notice that Villiers Services do 15/16/17/18 primary sprockets. Any views on what would be best? I have the 4 speed box and again wondered is there is much value in extra low 2nd and 3rd gears? any advice appreciated
  5. Hi I have a Villiers engine code 071B xxxxx 200cc. Could anyone help identify what it is? I assume a 7E?
  6. Very quick one, is the RD350 inlet mod the carb rubber as well as the reed block? If so does any material need to be taken out of the inlet. Thanks, new to all this
  7. Thanks for the posts. I’m defo after a twinshock as my local club has events almost every weekend and some midweek as well. I’m a Yamaha man so that’s my preference but like things like SWM and the Seeley Honda. Not really thought about a Fantic although there was a lot of them at my last trial. I had an OSSA Mar but found it a bit of a lump, but great to ride. I’ll keep my eye open thanks
  8. Hi. I’m looking at getting back into trials as soon as we are out of Lock down. I’m looking at TYs and wonted some advice; - apart from the obvious what’s the differences between the 175 and 250s. I’m guessing the 250 is heavier and perhaps has a longer wheelbase but probably pulls better with greater torque? Any views on how they ride by comparison? - what benefits do the Majesty modifications make and are these actually worth it for a club rider? thanks
  9. wezzo

    Cub Clutch woes

    Hi. So as I read it, as a minimum I need to block the breather hole near the clutch cable entry to stop water getting inside when riding through water and streams and fit a new breather somewhere with a non return valve. My engine is built now so I dont really fancy taking it apart to fit a blind bush on the cam
  10. wezzo

    Cub Clutch woes

    What about the offside case. Does that need to have oil in it for any reason?
  11. wezzo

    Cub Clutch woes

    Thanks robido. I do seem to have a constant ‘trickle’ of oil under this Cub. I’ve taken to making my own gaskets as the brown paper ones are worthless and this has improved things but guess that the cases become damage over time. I was wondering, is there any reason why the right hand outer case needs to carry oil? Seems to me that all the mechanics are inside the engine. Could I block up any holes and run this side case without a gasket. I haven’t looked to closely whether this is feasible/advisable
  12. wezzo

    Cub Clutch woes

    Thanks. I spoke to Pete earlier. Nice bloke. No stock now due to Covid but expects to be receiving stuff from his suppliers in a few weeks. I'm the meantime if I use the 'dipstick approach' so that the chain is lubricated, will thr plates burn out, u der thr massive power load?
  13. wezzo

    Cub Clutch woes

    Does it still need oil? I guess so
  14. wezzo

    Cub Clutch woes

    Thanks for the advice. I did ride the bike briefly with no oil in the primary case and it ran sweet. I’ll try the dipstick option today and see if that cures things. I like the sound of the Pete Kirby clutch. How much does one of them cost and where do I get one. have a good weekend all
  15. I’m covered in oil having had my clutch primary cover off at least 3 times tonight. The problem I have is that everything is fine until I put oil in the case. Then the kickstart doesn’t engage as if the clutch were pulled in. Drain the oil and everything is ok. I’ve adjusted the clutch as per the manual with the springs 3/8” from the face of the plate. Anyone have any advice please as I can’t stomach getting covered in more oil to get the same result. Is there a dry clutch conversion which would save all this and also give some improvements as I’m sure that when I do get this sorted the clutch is more than likely going to slip. Thanks
  16. Thanks for your advice folks. I had a play with the needle and have got close to a goo set up. I raised the needle a notch and it ran much better, raised again and it was worse so I reckon somewhere in between any be perfect. I’ll give it a go for now and tinker once it’s been competed, whenever that may be. I built this bike for the Somerton 2 day trial in June but alas looks like that may be off.
  17. Hi. This is a ‘fit and go’ job from Meridan Off-road, however it’s never as easy as that is it. Jets are pilots 22.5 mains 100 needle 4D20 middle posn, 3 slide 2.0 I’ll read the Amal manuals tonight, as you suggest, and yes I think it is rich looking at the plug. This is the first Cub I’ve ridden since I was 9 ( Mum has one), and it’s a project my Dad started 45 years ago and didn’t finish before he died. From the promising start made this week getting it going after an extensive refit, it feels like a lovely balanced bike.
  18. Afternoon All. So my Cub is all together and a runner. Warmed up and tickover set. Starts lovely on the choke from cold and also when warm. However I’ve got a jetting issue. Here are the symptoms - when I open the throttle gently it runs ok but when I snap the throttle open it muffs badly or stalls. - I think it’s therefore when it comes onto the main jet? - after running it for a bit a shiny new pipe is now a gold colour, so getting hot. Im now about to spend hours researching on the internet, but is someone can point me in the right direction or a good how-to link that would be great
  19. Hi. I've modified my Cub forks to have cartridges but now need new fork springs. Could anyone advise what sort of rate I might ask for when speaking to the various suppliers, who I guess include Hagon, YSS, etc? On the rear I'm thinking a set of Betor Alloy jobs for £150-ish. Any thoughts on these? Or NJB Have a good day
  20. OK thanks. The reason I asked is that with the spacer behind the rotor it didn't look like much thread is left to secure the nut. I take your point about the wires. Ive also noticed that the spade terminals they fit are too big to go through the hole in the cases. That's not very well designed is it? I replaced them with bullets that could thread through one at a time.
  21. Some advice please as the instructions although simple are not clear. I'm fitting to a bare crank. The kit has a small spacer. Do I fit this behind the sleeve and rotor, touching the primary or under the crank nut. The choice will of course move the rotor outwards by about 5mm. Any assistance welcomed
  22. Hi Hughie. I’ll call you later tonight colin
  23. With a bit of time on my hands at the moment I thought I’d have a go at fitting may new ignition to the Cub and tidy up a few loose ends. I really need a new exhaust pipe but can’t seem to find any in stock with the usual suppliers. So is there anyone that knows where I can find a high rise. inside the frame pipe. If anyone has a spare? have a lovely Easter
  24. After much kicking, swearing and throwing spanners about I managed to get it started. Not sure it'll go once again once its cooled down. Anyone want a freshly restored TY80. Its taken me so long that my 13 year old daughter is now in the market for a Ford Fiesta!
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