steve1979

Look up ACF50 it's good stuff for all round protection. Muck will wash off easier after and it will keep rust at bay.

Pumps gone,typical though I had put the oil in etc before realising the cable was goosed. Drain oil out, bash plate off etc. Made up a blank plate. 1step forward and two back at the moment though. Front exhaust is pretty well rotten, had to repair the silencer too, weld up a couple of holes. Front pipe is going to require a little more work to get it decent. I would like to put a new system on but funds won't stretch that far atm. I'll have to keep my eye going for a decent 2nd hand system. Not happy with the finish on the tank, had a lot of reactions and ended up with a slight orange peel effect, so it'll be getting flatted off again and this time a bar coat isolator coat put on. There's no shortage of paint on that tank now.

Just as turbofurball said, just neoprene. I have a pair on my gas gas. They were on her when I bought her 2006, there a little frayed now but still work as should. I would recommend them. So far I've not found the duel cable, all seem to be the single option. But I can imagine the duel would be ridiculous in price as you say feetupfun. Single it is. I'll order one and new chain tensioner springs etc today from ty trials. The original is also a bit on the weak side.

Yes just back in from the garage and I'm going to agree with you, I think the cable is past it's best. I'll get a new one ordered up. But I'm leaning towards removing the pump, it's probably fine, the fellow I bought it off assured me she was running great until he abandoned her outside for a while and he thought the electrics were shot due to corrosion, I've replaced everything there anyway and now have a healthy blue spark. So I'm thinking the pump is fine, but I've not primed it or checked it's settings yet, it looks ok. Looking online I've only found single replacement cables that do away with the dual cable set up. Although I've not fully looked for the upper cable yet. I did a search on here and the majority have removed the pump.

Hi guys, Rebuild is coming along, getting into a few nitty gritty jobs now. While fitting up the throttle cable it felt a bit tight and rough. I dismantled it and oiled it but it's still stiff for the throttle to snap closed. My question is, do you bin the oil pump in favour of a single throttle cable and just mix the oil with the petrol. My thinking is, it's a near 40 year old pump, what if it doesn't deliver the oil as it should. bin it and single throttle cable or replace with new duel cable and keep the convenience of the pump? what have you guys done. Oh and as for tank graphics, do I opt for the thin double line that was on it originally or go for the chunky red graphic that wraps over the tank? cant decide what will look better. She's a 1980 so maybe to keep her heritage right I should go for the thin double line. But I do like the look of the chunky red? here's how she's looking just now.

Thanks John, that's something I've never considered was having the likes of the flywheel machined, but an excellent suggestion! Some food for thought there. Once she's up and running I can start modifying and making improvements. looking forward to getting out on her. See how different it compares to the gas gas.

I did have that moment of..what have I started when I got her home. My sons TY 80 was fully worse though and she came up good. What I thought would be a quick rebuild enough to get him in the hill, turned into full engine rebuild. New spokes etc it's not long in turning expensive, by then you've gone to far to stop. A couple of bits were compromises but I'll replace them as I find genuine parts.

This was how I got her. Good to save one from the scrappy.

Thanks John, that should be us all sorted now here is some pics of the rebuild so far. Everyone likes a picture or two ? It's not the correct bars, just ones I had lying around. I'll need to get ones with a 5" rise I think. The originals were past it. Much like the whole bike was before I started it.

Brilliant bikestat, that would be great if there was one. that's very much appreciated if your able to look. ill keep an eye going for your reply either here or in my inbox thanks

Thanks Tony27, I had a look at that company you suggested. It looks like the answer. Probably finding a pipe to send away will be a bit of a job. If all else fails I've found 43mm flexible pipe in black and I can make one up. I contacted yambits who are excellent to deal with but unfortunately they can't supply or recommend an alternative.

Hi guys, TY is coming along, getting to the point of rebuilding. Zinc plating everything before paint is taking an age but hopefully worth it. Bit of a mistake by myself, the stainless spokes I ordered are wrong for the front. The rear laced up good, still need to true it up etc but I've had to re order new front spokes, had to compromise this time so there coming galvanised. I'll post up some pics of how she's looking so far. Back to to the main point though, I have searched for the inlet pipe between airbox and carb and I can't find one anywhere, does anyone know where this can be purchased or is there an alternative that fits or is it a case of make your own out of flexible hose? thanks steve

Ok so it turned out the DT stanchions I could get were the right size after all. So I got lucky there. Just a quick fit into the fork leg to see but there's a million other jobs to do first. There not perfect but a good bit better than what was on before. New fork seals etc to go in, rather than dust seals I'm going to fit the neoprene socks, I have them on my gas gas and work brilliantly. Looking forward to the new stainless spokes to arrive to get the wheels cleaned up.

This is the condition of the tubes, worst comes to worst they might be able to rigrind. But thanks for the suggestions they may be an option yet.

for anyone who's interested here's a good little site I came upon while looking for a spindle bolt. http://www.petrolscooter.co.uk/pit-bike-motorbike-axle-spindle-12mm-230mm.html they have a few parts that may be interchangeable with other bikes. Kick starters etc, don't know what the quality would be but I'm thinking can't go to wrong with a bolt at least you can go wrong haha it's not in stock

Thanks feetup, I'm thinking the ones on offer are the larger diameter like you said. I think the part number for Ty is 525 231 2400 but I tried cross referencing on another Yamaha website and the forks I could get are part 315 2312450. I think I'll pass on them. I seen online you can get reground and rechrome for £150 ish which isn't too bad for what is involved and at least they would be as good as new. I'll definitely look into the cr80 option though, so thanks for that. I'm not sure if the company's that offer reground service would turn away extremely pitted forks or is it salvageable. Ill post a pic when I get a chance

Hi guys, a quick question, the fork tubes on the ty are in poor condition. I'm thinking I could have them reground and rechromed somewhere. But I have been offered a pair of DT 175 tubes, not immaculate but a lot better than what's currently on. I appreciate the legs may be different but what's the chances of the Ty and DT sharing the same stanchion tubes? thanks steve

I got the swing arm out today, chopped the bolt between the swingarm and frame. I had to carefully grind the head off the bolt to allow the frame to spread enough to get clearance to get a hacksaw blade in. I can confirm though, there is no amount of hammering the end of the swingarm bolt would ever release from the spacer tube. It's definitely just a chop and replace job when it gets that seized in. Not sure either about the bolt at either end. Wonder if it's been a modification someone has done?

Thanks for looking feetup, much appreciated. I'll get a high tensile bolt it's only £6 inc postage. I'll try our local engineering company's first but I have my doubts.

Ah, excellent I'll look that up. I use yambits for a lot of the spares. They seem very reasonable in their prices. I ordered the all balls kit and I was looking up bolts on the Internet. I found high tensile bolts the right length I think I'll use and also found a stainless bolt, marginally longer but it could be possibly cut down and re threaded a little. I thought the stainless might be less prone to seizing up. But the high tensile will probably be stronger and as long as you keep on top of the maintenance from now on, shouldn't be an issue. Cheers

That's the one at £110, I've used them in the past and can't fault their service but the only difference to that kit and the one from allballs 28-1135 is the bolt and nut, making the bolt and nut £80

Hi there, I've recently taken on a new ty 175 project, she needs it all. The ty 80 I did for my boy last year was just as bad and turned out nice. I've started stripping the frame to get it shot blasted but when I went to remove the swingarm I got the standard seized bolt. Doing searches basically states the only way forward at this point is cut the bolt free and replace the bushes, bearings etc. I would be doing this anyway but I'm wondering where can you buy a replacement bolt? Or is it simply a case of measurement and order a bolt from anywhere that will sell a m12 bolt in the right length or is there somewhere you can buy direct. I did see a website selling a kit for £110 which was bushes etc inc said bolt but I see eBay places selling all balls kits without bolt for £30 ish could the bolt really be worth £80 lol

What a very detailed explanation, that makes sense to me! Thankyou very much for taking the time to write that up, very much appreciated. I've taken what you said onboard and got her timed up today. Now she's running a beauty. Couple of small jobs to do and then she's ready to hand over to my son for his 6th birthday. Thanks again to all who have contributed on this thread.

Ok, finally got her running. New condenser, ht spark plug cap, spark plug. She desperately needs tuning, but I'm wondering if someone can clarify my method of setting the timing, I set the timing how I think it should have been. It started second kick and was idling but could not take any throttle at all!! So I just tweeked the points in either direction and the first time I was that far off it wouldn't start, so a tweet in the other direction and voila!! She's running and fairly crisp of the throttle, but a tiny flat spot, so my "guess work" on the points must be in the ball park but will need setting correctly. So here's how I set the points, if anyone can correct me if I'm wrong it would be much appreciated. 1) find TDC 2) rotate flywheel clockwise until 1.8 BTDC is found 3) wedge flywheel at this point and set points to 0.014in or 0.35. Is this correct or am I doing it wrong? cheers Edit, just found the online manual guide someone has posted, so I think I have been doing it slightly wrong, I need to get the points to just start to open at 1.8 btdc, and the gap setting is not really adjustable it just needs to be between 0.3 and 0.4 and if it falls out of that spec then the points are worn. Would this be the correct technique? I'm probably making something simple, complicated.

Hi jbird, it's not sparking at all now. I've put a tester lamp between the source coil and earth and getting zero. I haven't got the multimeter on it yet, but I think there's no point. I'll need to order another tune up kit. I suspect the condenser has completely shorted or something, like b40rt mentioned. But just rule out a loose connection on the points I may as well replace them too. I'm wondering if condensers are generally universal and I could get say a heavier made one and mount it else where. But for convenience I'll probably just get the standard condenser. Just fingers crossed it's not the actual windings themselves that's gone.