I have a 2005 4RT. Started it first time in 4 weeks and ran fine for a minute then stalled. Wouldnt restart, then after i checked the plug it kind of started but ran very rough and exhaust was red hot. I let everything cool down and tried again but same deal, either no start or runs very rough and wont rev as if timing miles out. Any help appreciated???
I have had this problem a few times with the bikes that sit along time or starting after a rebuild. I take the air hose off from the airfilter leaving the back of the carb exposed. Put 2 fingers over the back of the carb so as to restrict airflow but increase vacuum pulling gas through the carby into the engine. You just have to play around to figure out what is too much of a restriction so just move your fingers around. "usually" after you start them this way once they are good to go. Starting this way also helps you diagnose bad crankcase sealing i.e. bad seals. Cant stress enough that these bikes need really good crank case seals.
Not sure of its worth over there obviously depend on condition and completeness etc,,,, but I am looking for one over here in the USA and never really see them except for one restored one a while back that was about 6000USD.
I have an early M-49 that has the frame numbers stamped in the same spot as the M-10 frame in the pics. Took me a while to find it, thought it had no numbers :-)
If the bike has spark then it should fire to "some degree". if it doesnt fire then either the timing is wrong (which you have checked) or one of the other essentials is missing i.e. fuel, compression, crankcase pressure. The first thing I would check is the woodruff key on the flywheel and also the main seals on both sides of the crank. Both are easy to check. Hope i didnt repost what some else had suggested :
You can flick the seals out of the bearings as the gas/oil mixture is supposed to lubricate the bearings. I am pretty sure the bearings must be C3 rated as this gives bigger clearances inside the bearings allowing for expansion due to the high heat application.
The kickstarter looks OK, I will check an engine I have partially assembled later and let you know. Remember to set the tension on the kick start shaft return spring before you assemble the case halves.
Those definitely look like tubes for a bike without the dropped lower yokes. What make mine so peculiar is the great distance between the upper yoke and the knurling. I can't imagine any Bultaco that would support those dimensions (I say this with very little research...)
Gomey, do you bring any of those bikes to Chehalis to ride at The Farm?
I should do! I have heard of it but not sure exactly where it is? Can you PM me the address?
Anyone any ideas for best places to get parts for a Fantic Section?? Main things I need are the coolant hoses,,,,,,, I am in the USA so website or address would be great. Thanks,,,,,
I have an early M92 with the knurled bits showing on the forks also. As you can see in the pic the knurls on my bike are above the yokes as compared to swooshdave's where his are showing below. Top yokes maybe different,,,
I am rebuilding a M199 with a 2 main bearing crankshaft. Has anyone ever converted this engine to take 3 main bearings as per the M199A? It looks like I just need a new seal holder from a 3 bearing engine and then a different shorter spacer for the seal to run on, from a 3 bearing engine also. Any help appreciated :-)
I have a M49 serial # M49005##, I believe it to be a so called series one. I need help with the correct rear brake lever and foot rest choice.
As you can see in the pics the bracket for the rear brake lever seems to be behind the frame at foot rest level. I am thinking for this it is a long solid steel type? Any pics would help me locate one.
The footrests I have seen can be the fixed platform type or the newer flip up type. Again any pics of the correct type to help me locate a set would be appreciated.
Any information or chat about the M49 would be great! Thanks, :-)
SWM Jumbo Restoration
in SWM
Posted
Awesome restoration!!!
Was the fuel tank painted? if so was it coated inside to stop the fuel vapours bubbling the paint off?
Thanks,