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dickiem

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  1. Cheers mate, managed to do it as you said...leak cured
  2. Hi, I need to change the output shaft seal (sits in the gearbox casing and around the shaft which the small sprocket fastens to) but I can't see any way of getting hold of it to remove it...any suggestions?
  3. Success Took 80psi air pressure to blow the piston to within 1/8" (3mm) of the circlip then wouldn't budge any further. Finally removed it using a stud extractor! Piston, seals and spring all in perfect condition. Apparently you can't buy service kits for this particular M/C now so had a guy in the toolroom at work turn me a new nylon insert/bush. Pressed that in, replaced the 'O' ring and re-assembled with the original piston, seal and spring and worked smooth as silk. Put it back on the bike and force fed fluid from each end to the banjo coupling with a syringe and hey presto, we have a good back brake again with proper lever travel
  4. Mmm, the MC piston only returns to within about 12mm (1/2") of the circlip. Total 'travel' from rest to fully compressed is probably only about 10mm (3/8"). Would appear that the piston is jammed at the top of its bore/stroke. Removed the circlip but can't get anything into the bore to 'grab' the piston to remove it.
  5. Tried it but the fluid just seems to squeeze out from around the threads on the bleed nipple (1/4 to 1/2 turned out), no fluid is being forced back into the reservoir
  6. Well, got a syringe from the local chemist but damned if I can bleed it . Pressing the pedal gets fluid coming out of the bleed nipple but can't get any decent pressure
  7. Where would I get a suitable syringe from...forgot all about that today
  8. Tried bleeding it but from what you're all saying, perhaps a bit more perseverence is needed. Will try it again tomorrow. The fluid level was low which led me to believe there was a leak somewhere, strangely, I couldn't find any signs?
  9. Think my rear brake master cylinder is shot, can't get any pressure to build up, although the pads move very slightly when the brake lever is pressed, the lever 'bottoms out' on the frame. How much am I looking at for a replacement...or can you get a refurb kit? Where's the best place to source one?
  10. Do you have details (sizes) of what's been ordered. Cleaned mine out tonight and no difference
  11. Right, gonna have a go at this tonight. Excuse my ignorance, but which jet is the pilot jet? Downloaded a service manual but the details are vague and nothing has any detailed labelling
  12. I haven't no but that might be a good suggestion, tried a couple of steep inclines recently and it felt choked up so that might be the culprit
  13. Been out on it a few times now (had it about a month) and I'm not sure if the motor is knocking in some way or it's just a normal noise. It starts and runs OK (but doesn't like ticking over, despite altering that). What are the classic symptoms of big end/little end bearing wear, how do you identify which it is and how big a job are they to change? I'm pretty confident at having a go DIY but don't want to do a bottom end strip down if it's only a top end problem.....or should I just leave it until running is affected?
  14. Hi, Not sure if it's the right forum but: My 9 year old son is able to set off OK but lets the clutch slip from his grasp at the last moment because he can't reach the full travel of the lever. This is obviously a problem when it comes to covering the clutch lever for slow speed feathering. I've adjusted the allen screw/lock nut on the inside of the lever together with the sprung screw on the lever body but the bite point doesn't appear to alter significantly. Any suggestions?
  15. dickiem

    Beta 80

    I'm guessing the output shaft seal is accesible just by removing the gearbox sprocket and prising it out?
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