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liviob

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Posts posted by liviob
 
 
  1. Been riding and working on bikes for 30+ years, but I'll admit that I'm new to trials.

    Even though I know my way around, I still look at service manuals before I do a job.

    Since I haven't taken a beta shock apart before, I thought it'd be good to ask someone that was in the know.

    I didn't think that asking for a precise piece of information deserved such a rude and unhelpful reply.

    I wasnt thinking rudly when i typed out my reply. It still dosent look rude when i read it. If i could post a picture of my modded damper i would, but i cant figure out how to post it. Google is your friend. If you look on the web for a photo of a gas charged damper for a twin shock bike you should be able to see where the schrader valve needs be fit into the damper body. There is only one place you can fit it so the damper internals will not be damaged and so it will clear the yoke of the lower damper linkage and the frame cross member after reinstallation. The damper must be completly filled with oil and well bled of all trapped air.

    Please know that i will never intentionaly respond rudly to anyones question and that i have easily invested over $500. in parts and supplys and paying qualifyed suspension techs for their service and knowledge and countless hours figuring out my 09 EVO suspension to get it to work well for a large rider.

    This link will take you to a page which will show four dampers. the damper on the left is the best example of where to mount the schrader valve.

    http://www.autosport..._car-june08.pdf

  2. There is only one place to drill a hole through the damper body. It's the same place you will find a schrader valve on any damper which has a schrader valve mounted in it from its manufacture. Do not drill through the side of the damper. You will permanantly damage it. If you have never done this sort of thing you may be better off to take the unit to a skilled suspension tech who can perform the service without incident.

  3. Thanks i did find this trial which is happening again.

    http://www.bigfeetsclub.com/

    2nd Annual Big Feets Invitational will be held over Labor Day Weekend 2012. We've laid in more great sections, expanded the trials loop and upgraded facilities. Festivities will start on Friday, August 31 and continue through Sunday, September 2, when we will be honored to host the first points-paying event on the 2012/2013 Southern California Trials Association (SCTA) calendar. We'll have big bike rides, adventure bikes rides, kids' stuff and plenty of Big Feets fun!

  4. I have a 2001 Rev3 250 in my garage. It was blue. Except for the swingarm it looks like photoboys now. 2000 had upside down forks. I'm pretty sure i read here that 01 and earlyer had a more reliable generator. It was a holdover from the techno. 02 got a new generator and they were not as reliable as previous versions.

  5. I dont know how much this will help, but you mentioned that your rev3 is an 2001. That is not a 2001 it is a 2002 model. I think there is a design difference between the 01 and 02 generator setup. The 01 generator may work fine in an 02?

  6. I tried this link and its working again.

    http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

    Copy and paste it to your word editer before it dissapears again.

    This chart is a valuable tool to help decide which oil to use to get the desired feel in your suspension. When you look at this chart you will notice that all 5wt oils are not the same Cst. I think the stock oil is either Bardall 5wt or Belray 5wt. Both are at 19-19.5 Cst. If you want faster suspension you must first get your ride height set properly so the spring preload setting gives you 1 1/2"- 2" ride sag. If you cannot get this ride height with 10mm of preload or less you will need firmer springs. After getting the ride sag set and you still want a faster suspension try adjusting the rebound screws to a faster setting even if you have to turn them to the fully open position. If you still cannot get the feel your looking for then try a thinner oil. Use fork oil in the fork and shock oil in the shock.

    I weigh 250lbs. and ride middle intermediate level. I have a .71 spring in the fork with 2.5 turns of preload adjuster to get the desired ride height. "The stock 09 spring was .61 and even if i turned the preload adjuster fully in the bike felt too soft". I currently am using Silkoline pro rsf 2.5wt. in both forks which is 13.5 Cst. set to factory oil height. I have also changed the spring and oil in the rear damper. Because my weight 250lbs. is so far out of the design envelope changing both springs is necessary to keep the front and rear of the bike in balance. I currently have the 8.0 Beta spring mounted on the damper. I have eight turns of preload dialed into it which equals 8mm of preload. and i am using Belray HVI 10 wt. oil in the damper which is 33.5 Cst. Here is a link with info to open the shock.

    http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/33584-suspension-setup/page__pid__254486#entry254486

    I have ridden the 2012 beta 300 and am certain Beta has again installed firmer springs in this new model. Their not as firm as mine but their firmer than previous models. Thats why theres more energy for rebound pop with the 2012 bike. With the spring rates and oil viscositys that i am using i am certain that a 170Lb. rider could comfortably ride this setup if they backed off the spring preload to get the desired ride height for their weight.

    I am sharing most of this info with you to use as a reference. You may find after some experimenting that only minor changes are necessary to find a setup that works for you.

  7. On the topic of Beta suspension, I have a new Evo 300 2012 model. The front fork adjustment seems easy enough with a clicker on the right leg and a hex cap on the left. It looks like the method of adjusting the compression is to simply turn the red hex cap with an allen key which causes the red insert to screw up or down inside the cap of the fork leg. Removal of the tube cap reveals that the hex cap does indeed appear to be threaded inside the cap however...I have tried to turn the hex with an allen key and it is TIGHT to the extent that I doubt the soft ally will stand any more force without something going snap. Has anyone encountered this problem yet or do I just need to eat some spinach and look out a length of pipe for the end of my allen key before I give it another go?

    I think your fork cap was assembled incorectly at the factory. Either the Oring is binding or the red adjuster piece was installed cross threaded. Dont force it. It should turn with little resistance. Since your bike is new take the bike back to the dealer for a warrenty replacement.

  8. BillyT has a very good point. Try silkolene pro rsf 2.5 wt. in both fork legs. It is 13.6 cst. Set your oil height to the stock settings. 120mm for the spring side and 60mm for the non spring side.

    If any of you want a copy of a very helpful pdf oil viscosity chart. Send me an email or personal message from my info page with your email address and i will send you a copy.

  9. It did take two and a half years to wear .001 of the factory new piston and the motor is still quiet. No piston rattle. So why change a perfectly good piston? I spoke with the parts guy. He said that the company who replates the used cylinders for them said min clearance .002 and the max is .004. He also measured a refurbished matched set new piston and replated cylinder and said that the biggest feeler gauge he could fit in between the two was .002. He also said that Beta recomends no more than .006 as max clearance in the manual. My Scorpa SY250 had a piston about the same size as the Beta 290 and they have a very easy to use owners manual which recmended min .002 and the max is .004. With ring end gap set at min .012 and max at .014. My new evo 290 rings had .012 end gap and the worn rings had .015 end gap.

    I rode the bike yesterday and new rings and the .3mm base gasket seemed to bump the bottom power easily 20%.

  10. If you didnt put white oil in it than the oil has been contaminated by coolent water. Most likely your problem is caused by the seal. The cases can leak too if there is enough decay. They are magnesium and you do have some kind of decay there. Cant tell if you have a hole or not from the picture. I removed the snap ring with a cheap snap ring plier from the local auto parts store. The impeller shaft seal can be pulled out by poking a sharp object into it and pulling on it. Grease the new seal with water proof grease and carefully press it back in with a deep socket that is the same OD as the seal.

  11. i'm on my first beta after never having a LH kick. it makes absolutely no difference to me... I can't imagine someone choosing to 'not' buy a bike just because of that.

    +1 When i first started riding my Beta starting it felt somewhat awkward, but now that my left leg is trained i dont feel the left side kicker is awkward.

 
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