rob w

Bob, I have seen the cracked subframe on an 02. We did the same thing as you - welded and refitted it without any problems. But I did lever the mount out a little (with a 12" shifter). I think the mount cracked because the rubber mount ("silencer block") was broken and was placing extra strain on the subframe. Is your silencer block in good condition? If it is cracked or stretched it could be making the difference. I have an 01 apart at the moment so I will have a close look and see if I can see another solution. However the 01 bikes have a single piece subframe where the 02s on have two piece subframes - still the geometry is the same. Rob W

I have just been searching through my library looking for my four stroke tuning book (by A. Graham Bell) or failing that VMX magazine number 19. Can't find either at the moment. I am sure that the answers to hot/cold 4v2 strokes are in Mr Bells book if anyone has it. VMX mag 19 has an article about Husky 510 4 stroke enduro bikes with a description of the engine lubrication system. These bikes had a ROTAX engine developed in the '70s. It was a light weight, air-cooled four stroke engine that used a misting lubrication system run by the piston presurising the crankcase. I suspect the 4T uses a very similar set up. ROTAX engines were reliable and powerful. They were sometimes hard to start (tongue had to be held right) and sometimes got a bit hot. Never the less they were very, very durable and were used in many applications from go carts to ride on mowers. I think the 4T engine uses proven technology and will be a good thing. Rob W

Hopefully here is a picture.

My 05 250 rubbed the tyre on the silencer from new. I discovered after a few rides that the inner muffler was also rubbing on the carburetor. I hated that. I was convinced that the tab on the silencer was welded on crooked and was throwing the rest of the exhaust system out of line, but after comparison with a few other 05 bikes I wasn't so sure. It was suggested that I space it with a rubber washer - I had to use an 8mm thick one to clear the tyre. I didn't like it because it only pushed the inner muffler harder up against the carburettor. Betas are very well designed, and after discovering that the exhaust parts are machine welded in a jig I changed my thinking - it must just have been the way they were assembled. Anyway, long story short... The crux of it was the little bracket that attaches the exhaust to the frame near on the left side (which, I think, is only on later models - I'm pretty sure it is not on the 02). I turned it over and clearanced the slots a little. This allowed me to move the inner muffler backwards about 3mm, to the left about 4mm and down about 2mm. It now sits very close to the crankcase (0.5mm), but clears the carburettor. This meant that the bottom end of the silencer mover inwards and the top (noisy end) outwards. I also tweaked the subframe outward a little where the silencer attaches so it lined up neatly with the silencer tag. This messing about pushed the silencer out and amazingly it clears the tyre perfectly, mud or no mud. No packing needed. Doesn't help if you don't have the little bracket though? Cheers Rob W

Sorry Neonsurge, It is a bit late now, but here is my bit anyway. No it is not easy to do. Pull the side case. When you replace the side case, take care with the gasket (the plain paper one works best) and consider a bit of gasket sealing compound too. Good luck Rob W

OK Stu now I get it....I should do a search and look at the last thread on this. Bit thick are we aussies. Thanks mate - always appreciate your comments and enthusiasm. Searching now Rob W

I managed to get a good seal with a (used and broken) clutch cover gasket using "locktite 515" on both sides of the gasket - I just made sure the faces where spotlessly clean first, then carefully tightened diagonally opposite bolts a little at a time, making sure I pushed the gasket back into place if it started to sneak out (particularly around the kick starter area). I left it to set for 1/2 an hour before putting the oil in and riding. It has lasted for for 15 hours of riding now. I am about to replace it with a new gasket which has just arrived (the paper type). I think my gasket failure was caused by a leaking water pump seal?? I certainly had coolant in the oil and vica versa. Presure from the cooling system maybe? But then it would blow out the gearbox vent tubes wouldn't it???. I have noticed a few of my mates 05 250's have weeping (but not leaking) clutch cover gaskets. Anyone got any thoughts on why the gaskets go west? It looks like I have a few to do Thanks guys Rob W

Crikey Kal, you were up later that me. I thought you were going out, otherwise I would have called. Hear from you. Rob

Aha - no they don't. Just been in the shed checking. The 250 did in fact have a 4 mm seal. So that begs the question. Is the 6mm seal the right size for the Rev80 or should it have had the 4mm as well? I think 4mm given that the 6mm seal only just runs on the edge of the impellor shaft. Thanks Rob W

Greetings from sunny Queensland. I have a little dilema that I wonder if someone else has noticed. My sons and I have 2005 models about 2 months old. At our last trial my 250 started leaking oil from the clutch housing gasket just above the kick stater. There was traces of coolant in the oil so I thought "that'll be the water pump seal that has caused all that". Shouldn't be a problem to fix. When I got home I drained the oil and left it. In the meantime my sons had a practice day. When we got home I walked past the Rev80 and notice that the oil in the sight glass was milky. Probably the same cause? So I have taken both bikes apart - they both had identical water pump seals 10*18*6 (shaft size, outside diameter, thickness). I picked up some replacements at the local bearing supply - too easy. I have put the 80 back together and apart form the seal being very, very close to the end of the shaft it seams fine. I must admit that I thought about a thinner seal when I was doing it, but as I didn't have one....... I was about to do the 250, but I checked the parts diagrams instead. It states that the seal should be 4mm thick. (part 25 on the water pump exploded diagram for anyone who has it) So whats right? The part that the factory put in or the parts diagram? I don't have a parts diagram for the 80 - does anyone know what it should be? Thanks guys Rob W in Australia