This is quite an old thread (from 2007) but to answer the original question about gearing for a TLR200:

Popular choice for trials: 9/44 = 4.88:1 As the standard rear sprocket is 44T this makes it an easy choice when you convert a bike with standard gearing.

Alternative 1: 10/48 = 4.80:1 (not very different to 9/44) My choice. I use 10T on front to give the chain an easier time and there is an easier run over the top of the swinging arm at the pivot. Purists will argue that the difference in leverage due to the chain pull from this set up adversely alters the suspension characteristics - I'm not good enough/don't do the expert route to know...

Alternative 2: 9/46 = 5.11:1 A very good rider in my club uses this set up as he says "it makes 3rd gear more usable" - needless to say he doesn't ride the easy route; I've seen him attacking climbs and he does get to the top.

A tip for changing the rear sprocket:-

Remove the circlip then, rather than remove the sprocket completely from the hub and then struggle to undo the nuts on the locating pegs, do the following:

just pull the sprocket out far enough to slip an open end spanner onto the locating studs (i.e. most of the length of the locating studs are still in the holes in the hub) then you can apply torque to loosen the nuts with the sprocket held in a fixed plane and the wheel gives you something to hold onto. Use the reverse procedure for fitting.

The spacer(s) and circlip required for the small front sprockets are available as Honda parts. As mentioned above, space the sprocket out away from the engine cases and fit the sprocket with the raised boss on the engine case side. I've seen cases that have substantial wear grooves in them, if not from direct chain wear, from material stuck to the chain.

The chaps at TYTrials (Trail and Trials UK) keep a lot of consumables for Hondas (despite the TY name) including the spacer and circlip; you probably need more than one spacer so the sprocket fits snugly with almost no axial play (to protect the splines on the output shaft). Trialsbits.co.uk have also given me excellent service for parts.

http://www.tytrials....200-Reflex.html

Edited March 30, 201214 yr by Esteve

11 tooth from an XR200 fit beautifully and took less than 5 minutes to install using the stock mounting tab. I will try the bike this way before trying to go lower, but this is more of a trail/woods bike for me, as I already have a trials bike.

After your first ride take the 11 tooth sprocket back off and check for touching of chain or sprocket tab mounting bolts on the crankcase. When I have used 11 tooth sprockets and smaller sized sprockets on xr200 engines they will touch the case, when useing the sprocket mt. plate. I am not sure if this is the case with the TLR crankcase. I use xr200 engines in TL frames and remove some metal from around the c/s seal area on the crankcase when useing 10 and 11 tooth sprockets. (minor amount off strengthing ribs)

I see this question came up previously in this thread, but I think was unanswered. Are TLR and XR rear sprockets interchangeable? I see that the front sprockets are. Thanks.

No, xr rear sprockets and TLR rear sprockets are not interchangeable. However as noted above in several posts all Honda 200 engines use the same front sprocket, TLR, XR, XL, ATC.

Old tread but still very useful - just bought a TLR myself.