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  1. OK, there aren't any cleans, loads of 3s and the odd 5 but i wouldn't ride on those terraces. Plenty of other videos on YouTube in the same vein to link to and there's one I've seen of them riding (clean) along the top of a wall/dam about 45cm wide. Loads of natural talent. Tenaci-Wong should be signing them.
  2. I suspect it's the risk of "or someone gets hurt and we need first aid/ ambulance etc" part that will decide when normality resumes. It was a major thrust of the ACU's decision to cancel events.
  3. + "Gaunt" as in Gaunt Suzuki http://www.bsaotter.com/geekies_gizzmo.html and Gaunt Jawa https://www.BLOCKED LINK.com/gaunt-jawa/
  4. I just watched American Pickers S15E04 and look what they found in a barn...
  5. When I removed the bearings from my Mk2 Pursang (similar engine) I put the cases open side down in my mother's oven and they came out by gravity with a resounding clang when the cases were hot enough. Mother was not too happy with the smell of Roast 'Gunk'.
  6. Had an email from ACU today. It's been decided and the point about the risk of putting pressure on medical services is well made IMO, in addition to the risk of transmission. In the meantime, before events resume, I will be ordering parts from the various companies who supply goods and services to motorcyclists to fettle my regular ride, build up a couple of projects, replace some riding gear and stock my spares box. Support for the suppliers during this period of suspension will go some way to ensuring they are still trading when events resume.
  7. CMSNL Netherlands. They have a pattern part which fits well.
  8. I suppose it depends on your age. For me, its the Kit Campeon Bultaco. I never owned one but I lusted after them when they came out. It was form following function.
  9. I've seen everything from 1" square wooden pegs to something like piano wire. For my six penn'orth I'll say that I wouldn't like to fall on a 1" square wooden peg.
  10. Anybody got any thoughts on flywheel effect; I assume there is a lack of? I was watching a youth rider on a full/near full size electric bike on a damp incline that gave no grip problems to monos and twinshocks of varied makes and age and while the IC engined bikes could roll off and back on the throttle to find grip the electric bike just span the rear wheel when power was applied and seemed to come to a dead stop when power was cut off. When power was reapplied again the wheel just span.
  11. Some pointers: If comfortable leads you to choose baggy, baggy is not a good idea; baggy trousers can catch on kickstart, etc. Same consideration for waterproof overtrousers. As an aside, re catching on kickstart, if you have a Honda with auto decompression it's a 5 if you have your engine stopped by moving the kickstart. If your legs can come into contact with the front pipe of the exhaust fit an exhaust heat shield as polyester and hot exhaust pipes make for a nasty burn.
  12. I noticed a drip of water traced to the drain hole in the swinging arm. Poking around with a length of wire revealed a lot of rust partially blocking the drain hole and released several cc of water. I've squirted copious quantities or WD40 into the hole, and the hole on the other arm, and tilted the bike rearwards on the paddock stand to drain any water left in the swinging arm. I'll be taking the swinging arm off and giving the internals a more comprehensive flush with WD40 and am considering diluted (with white spirit) Waxoyl. Anyway, something to look out for.
  13. now. Hadn't realised 4 wasn't showing highlights until after Qatar.
  14. I'm highlighting the crucial part of the text in red. I think that what is missing from the discussion that is developing around the original post is consideration of the direction of and what the "driving force" x "radius of rear sprocket" (the moment or torque) is acting on in relation to the gearbox sprocket and the suspension geometry. On a bike with a rigid rear end, does it matter what the rear sprocket size is, apart from larger ones are more vulnerable? On a bike with a swinging arm consider the forces acting on the swinging arm through the swinging arm pivot as a function of the relationships in space between the centre of the rear wheel axle, the centre of the swinging arm pivot and the top of the gearbox sprocket from where the chain is being driven. For the time being just sketch these out for a particular bike and I think the issue is the degree to which "squat" is induced as power is applied through the driveline for a given rear sprocket radius; and the situation changes with suspension movement....and then consider suspension geometry, forces and damping.... If anybody has a reference to an engineering paper on this please post. I've tried to do my own sums to determine what the ideal is but I've done this purely out of interest; I've long come to the conclusion that I am the weak link in any rider/bike combination. I agonised for about 30 seconds about the pros and cons of 9/44 or 10/48 on my TLR200; should I have agonised some more? Related to this do an internet search for Silk, JJ Cobas in relation to jackshaft, front sprocket concentric with swinging arm pivot. If I used a 1964 Honda C90 motor do you think I'd get a Pre 65 Scottish entry for this? Obviously I'd get rid of the pedals. The saddle should count in my favour.
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