Clutch master cylinder has a tiny weeping from where the clutch lever exerts pressure. Have the correct seal kit from Lampkins, is it simply just a case of draining, fitting new seals, re-filling. Will it require bleeding like brakes?? plus what fluid is best to use.

Have seen thread on here re: correct anti freeze to use on rev3. I've been looking and think I need to use the anti freeze with propylene glycol (as opposed to the normal ethylene glycol). Is this correct?

However, I have major problems sourcing the stuff. A (semi) local supplier sells neat propylene glycol in a minimum of 25L (cost

I'm not too sure about your other questions, but with the clutch master cylinder rebuild;

1. remove the lever rom the body and be careful not to lose the little push rod.

2. remove the lever body from the handlebars and attatch it to something so that the bit where the lever pushes in is pointing upwards.

3. Using a smallish pair of circlip pliers gently remove the circlip (it is one where you close the ends inwards) You can use a small blunt screwdriver to hold the master piston in as it is sprung.

4. slide the piston out.

5. You should now be able to replace the seals, or sometimes just bung a new piston in there. If you are changing the seals, use a bit of rubber lube to make it easier, there will be two seals, a conical one and an o ring type one.

6. Once the new seals are on the piston, take a bit of brake fluid and top up the bit where the piston goes in, fill it right up so there is no chance for bubbles.

7. Gently put the piston back in, followed by the circlip.

8. Bolt it back onto the handle bars and refit the lever.

9. before you use it, remove the resevoir cap with it level and check the fluid level, it may be a bit too high, if it is then syringe a bit out or otherwise.

Use DOT 4 brake fluid in both the brakes and clutch I think, but it shoud say on the resevoir caps if you are still using the standard ones.

Good luck, and enjoy your smooth clutch with no dribbles.

Bob

Don't forget brake fluid is like paint stripper, it will spoil paintwork etc so make sure you keep it off those parts, if you do get it on paintwork, use loads of water to dilute, straightway on the affected parts.

Right

Racks you need a normal tow bar and you attach the bar behind the ball using the long bolts you can buy along with the rack

Anti freeze I use the green stuff can't remember what the make up of it is but is easily availabe in 1 liter bottles from the likes of Halfords use it as a 50/50 split with water and I try too change at least 6 monthly

swan neck towbar is no good.