chrisl

Hi, Looking to get a Beta road legal. It's already reg'd, I've got a decent insurance quote too. However, in relation to the number plate - is there a legal minimum requirement on the size? Is this enforced by the law or is there an exemption for 'competition' bikes used on the road? I've seen the YOU HAVE USED WORDS OR A PHRASE WHICH ARE NOT PERMITTED ON THIS WEBSITE. PLEASE DELETE YOUR POST/TOPIC. DO NOT TRY TO CIRCUMVENT THE FILTERS IN PLACE ON THIS WEBSITE site where the plate sits below the rear mudguard, (i think this is plastic - but would it have to be made of metal and reflective to be legal?) Could I get away with yellow plastic vinyl stuck on the mudguard (about 11cm high and an average of 9cm wide) with the registration letters just stuck on or would it have to be made of metal and securely attached to the mudguard. or am I just being to fussy and get away with anything in reality as long as I've got insurance, Mot, and tax? Would anyone know where I could find out the legal status - or is a trip to the police station the only way to find out for sure? (don't like the sound of that mind!)

I've got a road bike (CB500) insured with A Quote Insurance. I pay

Clutch master cylinder has a tiny weeping from where the clutch lever exerts pressure. Have the correct seal kit from Lampkins, is it simply just a case of draining, fitting new seals, re-filling. Will it require bleeding like brakes?? plus what fluid is best to use. Have seen thread on here re: correct anti freeze to use on rev3. I've been looking and think I need to use the anti freeze with propylene glycol (as opposed to the normal ethylene glycol). Is this correct? However, I have major problems sourcing the stuff. A (semi) local supplier sells neat propylene glycol in a minimum of 25L (cost

Why does the clutch do this? is it because there's some oil on the plates? Then as the plates spin it just gets flicked off? Also, would putting it in gear when cold - pulling clutch lever in - then easing kickstart over gently (rather than rocking the bike) be better/worse and slower/quicker. look where your pointing it....very true.........had an incident with washing line personally

hi, had my 2001 rev-3 for three years now and had no problems. However.......on the left hand side of the frame there is a threded hole which I'd never really noticed before till a mate pointed it out. he reckoned that it was for a trials sidecar attachment! Is this correct and has anyone ever seen a Beta sidecar and where's the event listings for trials sidecars?

Hi, have another question regarding paint and hope the purists don't wretch at this but.......painted my TY250 purple and yelllow. The purple is a (beautiful???) Halfords metallic but I can't seem to find a decent lacquer that'll take to it (and not bubble up the paint) AND remain fuel proof. Anyone got any recommendations ?

hi, have had a TY250 (with drum brakes) for seven years and after doing a few trials have got myself a 2001 Beta 250. thing is...the brakes seem a totally different kettle of fish when compared with road and enduro bikes. How do I get the pads separated (even if its just a little bit) away from the disc itself so i can check the surface of the pads. I have removed the top of the reservoir andd tried pushing the calipers (gently) from both sides but this seems to have no effect in getting a gap between the pads and discs that will make re-assembly an easy task! I have had a look at the brake lever end (and please forgive the lack of technical terms here) and have removed the rubber boot to see what the brake lever pushes on. (master cylnder adjuster????). inside there was a piece of plastic with a hole in the middle - should I slide this further out?...if so how far can I pull it - or should I leave this well alone. should I not worry about getting a visible gap between pads before removal? or is there a neat trick to bypass the problems I'm facing. If anyone can offer any help it would be greatly appreciated (cos I'm having the same problems with the rear brake too). Chris L