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Overflow Issues On 300


uhoh7
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Got my 300 pro out since the snow is fast melting and had a great ride in the mountains, except:

I had to fill my radiator 3 times.

this is an 06 and has done this since new. On a long pull it will get hot and start p******, untill it has p****d ALOT.

putting around it's no problem. water pump and fan are fine.

thoughts?

BTW here's where i was...

P1000137.jpg

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Have any of your other bikes done this in the past??

Could it be due to the altitude you are riding at, makes water boil at a lower temputure? ;)

I believe you can get an additive to put into your system which increases the boiling point!

Edited by bucki3
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Hi there,

Have had a similar problem with a friends 06 250. Fan and pump working fine, but still the motor would overheat during a long trial and spit out water via the radcap. Problem traced to a low voltage at the fan terminals - not providing enough power to the fan motor.

Check out your electrical system - is it Ducati or Kokusan?

If Ducati, the voltage regulation is performed in the aluminium cased ignition map/voltage regulator box and uses the thermoswitch to operate in series with the fan motor. EG: when the thermswitch switches in, this closes the electrical circuit to the fan motor, you should see approx 12 to 14 volts with the fan on. Changing the aluminium box fixed the problem (but then only for a few more trials as then the problem re-appeared with the same low voltage) Bummer!

Only other explanation could be a high resistance contact in the thermoswitch, though by this time my friend lost faith Ducati and converted his electrics over to Kokusan - all fine now.

I guess, in essence then, check the voltage to the fan when it cuts in, if low, first try changing the thermoswitch, if still a problem then try the replacement ign/regulator box, if still a problem - Kokusan.

If you already have kokusan, the thermoswitch may still be the problem, in this case it is not strictly in series with the fan motor, it has one leg grounded. The fan in both cases should blow almost like a hair dryer.

As a guide, on my 06 300, the fan cuts in after approx 1 to 1.5 mins riding in the drive way and is on and off quite often.

Hope this helps, PeterB.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm experiencing the same problem. My 04 300 has been fine putting around, but on the 2 longrides (higher speeds too) I've done, I blew out the coolant. My fan has been working well, so my guess at this point is that the head is warped.

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Hi floored,

I am pretty sure that the 04 300 has a Ducati electrical system fitted. I would be really surprised if the head is warped, never seen this before on a GG.

I must say that since the Kokusan system was fitted to the 06 250, the overheating problem has gone completely. Also, it is really noticable that the fan cuts in far more frequently than peviously.

Probably best to check the voltage first at the fan and try a new rad cap. I had an overheating problem on a 96 370 that was traced to the rad cap rubber that had gone off, quite soft, so that when the motor got hot and heated up the coolant, the cap did not seal under an increased pressure. A new cap fixed that problem.

Bye, PeterB.

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P1000541.jpg

note in the pic that the cap says 1.00 BAR. This is fine for sea level, but too low for high altitude, where water boils at a much lower temp.

You would think that ordering a higher BAR would be easy---like it is for any enduro or MX bike.

Not so. GG in spain does not have any.

I now have found the manufacturer of the caps

http://www.biffiepremoli.it/uk/catalogue/p...5&id_cat1=3

I have to figure out which "code" or part number the stock cap is so I can be sure to order the right one.

Then I have to figure out how to get it from italy to the USA.

Edited by uhoh7
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Hi Uhoh7,

hmmmmm, I see. You must be up some seriously high mountains then.

The standard GG rad cap p/n BT280232032 has another part number in the write up, P/N TP50806 which may be the satndard order code for the OEM factory. Just had a look at a spare cap, they do not look like they can be easily stripped apart. was thinking of fitting another spring or stretching the original. Maybe you could make a brass cap on the lathe, in two parts and use the inner from an original cap with a stronger spring.

Not sure of the max safe working pressure of the radiator - could be a problem.

Just done a quick calc, at 10,000 ft water boils at 193.6 F, at 15,000 ft it is 183.9 F.

Maybe if you stayed below 10,000 ft then you might be ok!

Another thought, I had a look on my 300, for long rides up the mountains you could fit another radiator in series, mounted sideways on the left side of the frame along the downtube, without a fan.

Use a courier for freight to USA, not so cheap out of Italy.

Good luck, PeterB.

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