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  1. Those flywheels are on real tight, when you make the puller (I used a flange with 3 x M8 socket head bolts with a threaded insert), make sure the bolts go a long way into the flywheel, get a lot of tension on and tap/smack the end of the centre extracting bolt head to break loose the taper. On the older motors, there are no pressure fed bearings, just gravity fed from the gearbox. Check the LHS crank bearing has not failed, you would have heard a rumble by now if it was.
  2. I don't know what that upgrade kit is, but I have seen Trials Bike Breakers advertise a replacement kit for the Ducati ign systems, they may have some Ducati ign parts too. Bye, Peter B.
  3. On those earlier Vertigo's, there is little mating surface in the crank case area and quite easy for a few big knocks to jolt the two halves and create a leak path. If that is the case and the crankshaft seal has worn then you could be drawing in gearbox oil. You can leave the motor in the frame, turn the bike upside down, remove the clutch and strip off the lower crank case "half" We used Loctite Greymaxx as the sealant. Also need to bung up the vent in the fuel cap. Bye, Peter B.
  4. It is possible that the motor is drawing in gearbox oil, possibly through the crankcase LHS. There may also be signs of gearbox oil escaping externally, have a look behind the flywheel.
  5. I haven't worked on one of the older GG motors for many years, I don't think the crank shaft tapers are the same between the two models but would be worth checking out first. Pretty sure 1994 had Motoplat, 95/96 with the early Ducati system and 98 with the early Kokusan system. Bye, Peter B.
  6. A common problem with the Ducati ign system is the voltage regulator failing. This is the aluminium finned unit. Underneath this, the electronics are potted with a green looking mix. When the regulator fails, a component burns out and discolours the potting, have a look to see if there is a brown discolouration, failure is from the component overheating. I have had one of the failed units in the oven to soften the potting mix to dig around the components to see what had failed but never managed a conclusion. Try some of the UK bike wreckers for a complete, used Kokusan system, from 2002 upwards.
  7. I use a standard exhaust, there is no connection with the front stay or mudguard on full compression.
  8. There is sufficient mudguard clearance to the frame, but you need to make up a new rear facing front guard stay. The original rear facing stay is 200mm from the top of the loop centre, to the centreline of the stanchions. The loop of the stay I use is 130mm from the stanchion centreline, and neither the stay nor the mudguard foul the frame on full compression. Was a good question by the way.
  9. I use Alpina yokes on my Sherpa, steering angle is tighter, bars further forward and feels more like a modern bike. The stanchion width between centres is a little more than the Sherpa set up.
  10. Well done. I also have a TLM220, if you do not have the sump plate, one from a TLM200 will fit.
  11. Can you advise the pilot, main jets, and needle type in the Dellorto.
  12. The weight is easy enough to remove, 3 x M8 countersunk screws that ought to have been loctited in. If you want to remove the cover spacer, you will need shorter, by 10mm, cover screws, there are two different lengths of cover screws, longer ones go where the dowels are located. If you do remove the cover spacer, you also need to remove the stator spacer/spacers. The stator spacer should be 10mm thick. You will then need 10mm shorter stator screws too. The motor will pick up quicker and not roll on so much going over the top of steps or up rocky becks. Bye, Peter B.
  13. The 3 position belville spring compression ring are likely made by the same company, for GG and Vertigo. The softest position is on 1, then 2 and 3 are progressively harder by 0.10mm in each position, such that position 2 is machined by 0.10mm, then position 3 machined deeper by 0.20mm to allow more compression on the spring. Position 3 would give a stronger spring tension and a shorter travel from clutch biting point. Bye, Peter B.
  14. I would be inclined to split the cases and see where that piece of steel in the first photo, came from. May be it is the link (missing!) from the gear selector rollers that ride inside the end of the gear selector drum, though I recall these as looking more like a skinny chain side plate. Have a look inside before any serious damage is done. Bye, Peter B.
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