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About peterb

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Vertigo ICE 300

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  • Location
    Auckland NZ
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  1. That museum in Barcelona is a far smaller place and can be seen very quickly. The one in Basella is superb and well worth the trip, you can make a weekend of it by staying in one of the parador's nearby, like the castle at Cardona, build starting in 886 so it's getting on a bit and wasn't too expensive. Bye, Peter B.
  2. I'm not familiar with the Sherco motor, but most other brands have a separate pick up coil, usually external to the flywheel for the ignition timing. Bye, Peter B.
  3. I don't know if forks from other makes would fit, you can only measure them up and try. But in the mid 1990's GG used Paioli conventional 38 dia forks in their bikes. Have you tried asking one of the trials bike breakers what they have in stock? Bye, Peter B.
  4. Be aware of the 2002 GG Pro, this was the first year model and did have its fair share of gearbox/clutch problems, possibly all fixed by this stage. If you could be more specific about the bike's year and model that would be a help. Bye, Peter B.
  5. The outer, driven clutch basket runs on a needle roller bearing 25x33x20, they usually have a bit of free play when new. The clutch centre on these can be an unusually loose fit, the centre is held in place by the M10 Allen bolt plus washer. If you have a close look, the washer does not come up against the centre so when the M10 bolt is tightened, there is tension on the shaft but the centre is allowed to rock. I made up a hefty washer to allow the M10 bolt to pull up against the clutch centre to get some of the slop out of the clutch. Hope this helps. Bye, Peter B.
  6. You can try Trials and Tribulations though not sure how far from Manchester they are. It is unusual for an Ossa to cut out at a certain temp. There is no temp cut out that I am aware of, there is a temp sensor for coolant (perhaps on the 2012 model onwards) and a temp sensor for the fueling algorithm. Are you sure there is not another problem? What are the symptoms, what is happening? Engine running is easily affected by corroded connectors in the wiring loom, particularly at the ECU. Do not scrape these with a screwdriver as they were gold plated and can be easily scratched off. To clean the ECU plug/socket, spray with a contact cleaner like Wurth type OL. Can also be a problem with the fuel pump system, check the fuel pressure exiting the pump, should be around 50 psi. By this time of life, the fuel pump filter may be blocked, also the pump itself may be partially choked, check the small inlet orifice at the bottom of the pump, not easy to see. The pump is difficult to get to as it is in the bottom of the fuel tank, I can't remember if we had to remove the motor to get to it or not, been a few years ago. Bye, Peter B.
  7. peterb


    It's possible that the gear lever has hit a rock at some stage and damaged the selector spring collar, a "top hat" as it is known by. If so, then it would be difficult to select gears correctly. The top hat can be replaced, complete with spring if this is the case, an easy repair. BVM should have these in stock. The kickstart mechanism consists of a geared 5 tooth quadrant the rotates along the kickstart shaft to engage with an idler gear to start the engine. If you are not used to starting a GG it's possible to damage the quadrant gear teeth, and/or idler gear where pieces of gear teeth can chip off. Best to have a look there. Another possibility is that the kickstart gears have simply become jammed and maybe if you put the bike in gear and rock the motor backwards and forwards then this may free up the kickstart. I would still take a look there anyway. Don't loose the washer between the kickstart shaft and the clutch case when you remove this. Tip the bike on it's side, leave the water pump connected up, no need to drain the coolant. Let's know what you find. Bye, Peter B.
  8. I've seen a barrel just like the one in the first photo today, in a museum in Hamilton NZ, on a DMW. I thought it looked like it had been home made, and didn't think it was a Marcelle, but perhaps it is. The fins are a lot thicker than the Challenger barrel, so I don't think it would be one of those.Shame that I didn't take a close look at the exhaust mounting. I will be back there in a couple of weeks and have another look. Bye, Peter B.
  9. A few things to look at. The kickstart shaft runs in a needle roller bearing in the crankcase, the shaft may just have popped out of the housing as you took off the clutch cover. Those bearings don't usually give any trouble. A photo of the kickstart shaft in the casing would help. The double sided water pump seal is not usually so easy to remove, first thing to look at when coolant gets into the gearbox is to replace the water pump shaft and seal, also have a look at the impellor as it may be damaged. If coolant is still entering the gearbox then very likely the cylinder head O rings are passing, or there is a crack in the cylinder head O ring groove. You can't just use nitrile seals for the inner O ring, these have to be Viton for heat compatibility. Bye, Peter B.
  10. It looks like the casing on my 1977 325 with the oil drain via one of the casing screws, I don't know the model number. Bye, Peter B.
  11. peterb

    2001 txt 280

    Hi Dazza, I just noticed your question today. I don't have any photos of the ball bearing, do you mean the one embedded in the clutch slave piston? If you ever need a new slave piston kit, they are not so easy to find and are in at least 2 different diameters, 28 and 29mm. Bye, Peter B.
  12. peterb

    I need help

    If the carb is a DellOrto, then at the air inlet end of the carb, there is a cast stub that fits inside the rubber boot that connects the carb to the air filter. There is probably a black rubber sleeve that fits over the carb stub, sometimes, the sleeve gets pushed up into the the rubber boot and the carb is unable to be made air tight at that end. Have a look at this and see if this is the case. A photo would help. Alternatively, if the rubber sleeve is in place on the carb, then it is best to clamp up to this end first, the air inlet side of the carb, before trying to fit the carb to the inlet manifold rubber. Bye, Peter B.
  13. I don't own an older GG any longer, and use Motul 800 2T fully synthetic oil in my modern bike. On the 321 I used a mineral based oil for the pre mix, at 50:1, but I think you would be fine with either Motul or Putoline synthetic 2T at 70:1 Bye, Peter B
  14. peterb

    2001 txt 280

    Your bike is over 19 years old, and by this time the water pump shaft and seal would have worn allowing coolant into the gearbox. If the coolant got into the gearbox, the oil turns a milky looking colour. The water in the oil reacts with the adhesive on the clutch plate fibres, loosening them. The plates then tend to drag a lot. The other problem causing clutch drag is likely with the master cylinder, replacing the kit (DOT 4) is straight forward. The third problem is that the clutch slave piston has a ball bearing at the end of a hole where the clutch pushrod is located. This ball bearing has been known to be forced deeper into the slave piston, with the result that the piston reaches the limit of it's travel (hard up against the crank case) without actually fully disengaging the clutch. Bye, Peter B.
  15. peterb

    Bultaco yokes

    I run Alpina fork yokes in my 325 Sherpa, needs a bit of sorting to get everything to fit properly, the rear mudguard stay needs to have a different bend to miss clouting the frame down tube. I prefer the set up with the Alpina yokes, with the bar position right over the top of the steering stem. Feels more like a modern bike. Steering is an improvement for my liking. I used the Alpina front wheel with the larger brake drum, a pity it is 1kg heavier than the Sherpa wheel. Bye, Peter B.
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