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About peterb

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Vertigo ICE 300

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  • Location
    Auckland NZ
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6,859 profile views
  1. bad vibe

    I agree with ric h, that it could be the crank bearings. The left side has a caged needle roller bearing, the axial control of the crankshaft is only down to the right side ball race, a similar bearing to the ones used by GG. If this has worn, then you would tend to feel vibrations through the footrests, getting worse as the revs rise, you would be able to hear it too as a rumbling noise. The TPS would not cause this vibration. There is no other way to check that this right side bearing has failed, only from the motor vibration and the sound. It is not an easy bearing to replace, you would need an Ossa crank bearing, while it is the same type as a GG and JGAS, the Ossa bearing has a short slot machined in the outer casing to locate a 3mm allen screw. Ask for help locally to determine what the vibration is, if it is not that bad, it could be that something has come loose in the fuel tank, pump or filter. Bye, Peter B.
  2. Help for Ossa tr 280 2012

    Ciao Gobig, I had the same problem with the front wheel spindle, the aluminium spindle had locked onto the bare steel spacer in between the wheel bearings. Make sure the fork slider lock bolts are loose, support the fork slider where the spindle would be removed from with a heavy piece of wood, then try tapping out the spindle with a hammer and brass or aluminium drift. Hopefully this will work. Ciao, Peter B.
  3. First trial, need help!

    Dobroe utro venickey, I have front wheel spokes for a 94 model, there are 2 lengths, 236mm and 238mm, 1 for each side of the hub. Part number R130000 and R140000. I think I can post you these for not much money, it is ok, when I am in Russia then you can buy me a beer! Can you use the "Messages" part of the forum to send me details of your address? I teach engineering in a high school, we have students from all around the world, one is called Iaroslav, he is from Russia and speaks good English, always good to learn a few words. Bye, Peter B.
  4. First trial, need help!

    Dobroe utro venickey, kak vwy? You must be close to Dzhaore, maybe there is a cycle or motorcycle repair shop there who could make a new spoke for you. The problem with your bike is that it is 24 years old and the spokes on these older bikes do tend to seize up in the nipples, best to leave the other spokes alone for the time being. You can remove the spoke and continue riding no problem. If you cannot find a new spoke/nipple, I probably have one at home you can have, but then there could be a post/delivery problem to where you are, I will check it out. Bye, Peter B.
  5. First trial, need help!

    Dobroe utro venickey, the bike is reasonably reliable. There is no manual for this. Although the recommended gearbox oil is 700ml, it is ok to use 600ml of ATF rated to Dexron III. The water pump seal and shaft wear, which allows coolant to enter the gearbox and mix with the oil. The water/coolant can create a problem with the glue used on the clutch fibres, allowing them to lift away from the steel. This makes the clutch action drag when pulled in. On your carburettor, the pilot adjusting screw should be set to around 3.5 turns out, from fully in as a starting point. The throttle needle in the second notch from the bottom. The suspension linkage, as most trials bikes, requires stripping, cleaning and greasing with a waterproof grease. Hope this helps. Bye, Peter B.
  6. Toby Martyn

    I agree with heffergm that Grattarola is not to blame. It is wrong for the observer to change his observed score due to outside interference, I hope that the FIM listen to reason and revert the score back to what was initially given, that would be the correct and just act to do. Bye, Peter B.
  7. Removal of 247 swing arm bushes

    I don't think the heat is going to damage anything there, I am not sure if the bushes are steel or bronze, either way a bit of heat shouldn't hurt. Heat and a big hammer should get the spindle to move. There would likely be a seal there either side, best to remove these before heating, unless you already have. Good luck, Peter B.
  8. No shift 3rd to 4th. Tear down?

    If it were just a soft fall then it is possible that the shift fork has not bent. What can happen is that the cupped sleeve that the shift return spring sits on may have been damaged. This is usually referred to as the top hat, as it looks like a top hat. This is made in two parts, an inner piece that is pressed into a tube in a specific location relative to the spring tang, when the bike is dropped on the gear lever side, the force of the gear lever smacking the ground can rotate the inner piece inside the top hat. Visually it would look ok, only the inner is now out of alignment which does not allow the gears to be selected correctly. This could be what your problem is. The top hat used to be supplied with the return spring attached so it is easy to replace. Try this first before tearing the motor down. It is located behind the clutch basket. Bye, Peter B.
  9. 270 rebuild

    The corks are supposed to be there to fill in the machined holes in the flywheels. The early 270 GG had a 3 ring piston, later ones were supplied with a piston with 2 rings. Bye, Peter B.
  10. 2011 rear wheel bushing

    Hi Ric, we machined out the hubs to fit ball races, 60042RS from memory, and made up a wheel spacer to suit, with the tyre off, the wheel can sit flat on a large milling machine table. Pretty sure the kit was just a sleeve and a smaller than 6004 ball race. Bye, Peter B.
  11. Hebo number board fuel tank

    You can fit the Hebo 1L fuel tank on the headstock to a Vertigo with a few mods. You will probably need to re-locate the map switch and LED to somewhere else to fit the tank. Block the Vertigo fuel cap breather and make a new tank top breather bush from a short 12mm M8 hex head bolt, turned flat on top, centre drill then drill out to 4.20mm and thread M5 through the bolt centre. Get a GG or Ossa gearbox elbow and thread the end of this M5 and screw into the M8 "bush" with PTFE tape. There is a handy spot to drill and thread the top of the Vertigo fuel tank to take the M8 bush, we have a drawing somewhere to show this but you should be able to find a good spot. Run a decent petrol proof breather hose from the new vent to the Hebo tank outlet. The Hebo tank has a breather itself. When you are not using the Hebo tank, fit a ball check valve to the breather hose end to allow air to enter the tank. A very good friend worked this out initially. Bye, Peter B.
  12. Piston to cylinder wall clearance

    Hi Cribbs, for an air cooled 2T motor around 250cc, you would be looking for a piston bore clearance of around 1.5 thou, measured about 3/4 of the way up the bore near the bottom of the inlet and exhaust skirt. Most of the wear will occur in this area. This is just a rule of thumb guide. Bye, Peter B.
  13. Fantic K - Roo 247 - 1993(?)

    The Marzocchi USD forks are straight forward to strip down. Drain the old oil from each leg, loosen, but don't remove the M8 allen screw at the bottom of each leg. Remove both fork top caps and take out the spring. Remove both stanchions from the yokes, then the loosened bottom M8 screws, remove the circlips from on top of the fork seals then gently pull out the stanchion from the slider, sort of a slide hammer action to remove the bush and seal, take a note of the washer below the seal, this has to be in the right place when re-assembling. I got my seals when in Spain, but if you measure the ID, OD and seal height, you could probably find a Jap bike seal that fits. Bye, Peter B.
  14. Stiff forks

    The Betor forks would work well with 5w oil, 200ml. Why 2 seals? There is probably some other problem like the stanchion jamming in the slider, perhaps the slider bush is too tight. The forks need stripping down to find the problem, try without the springs and without oil to see if the stanchions have full travel without jamming then look for the problem from there, it is not the oil. 5w is very light for Betors. Bye, Peter B.

    Hola papapitufo, creo que fue muy amable de su parte el tomarse el tiempo para mostrar como se desmonta el eje primario Ossa, gracias. Lo siento si mi espanol gramatica es un poco malo. En ingles....The pinion at the end of the shaft is a very tight interference fit, and pretty good for about 3-4 disassemblies. With a bit of heat, you can use a standard Toldeo type bearing puller, I don't have anything as hefty (fuerte) as the puller you are using. We made a few modifications to improve the oiling around the gearbox, particularly to prevent the kickstart idler gear sleeve bush (casquillo de pinion intermedio) from premature wear. We drilled an extra oil feed hole through the inner gearbox plate, directly into the bearing. I experimented with different bearing materials, there was not a lot of options, for this bush, and ended up making a Delrin sleeve to replace the teflon lined bush. When the standard bush wears, it allows the secondary shaft to have a lot of axial play, which was accentuated when in second gear (the gear farthest away from the bush). This play was the cause of the whining gear noise when in second gear, as the bush wore out. If I can find a spare gearbox inner plate with the mod, I can post a photo of this mod, if interested. Saludos, Peter B.