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peterb

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About peterb

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Vertigo ICE 300

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  • Location
    Auckland NZ
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Looks like the port has been enlarged and a bridge added, I haven't seen that on a standard barrel Villiers motor before.
  2. The noise you describe is in line with a main bearing failure, however the age of the bike would suggest not. Has the bike been drowned and not fully cleaned out at all? You have checked all bolts, s/arm, head steady, sump plate as mentioned before. Other things causing vibration and noise are the ignition flywheel, which if loose would very soon have sheared the woodruff key, also on the other side of the crankshaft is another flywheel weight, pretty sure on the Beta they are a taper fit so if this was loose then there would be no drive to the clutch. Does sound like a main bearing failure. Bye, Peter B.
  3. Hi Jim, I've not worked on an old Ossa clutch, but there may be a couple of things to look out for. One is the condition of the clutch centre and clutch basket, where the clutch plate "ears" or "tabs" connect, on older bikes, the long term use of the clutch can cause the tabs to cut grooves into the basket, I have seen this on Bultaco's that I have worked on, which may prevent the plates freeing up. The other more usual problem, is that the plates are sticking together hydraulically, one way to cure this is to drill 5 or 6 holes in the annulus where the fibres drive the steel plates, 6mm dia hole is sufficient. It worked for me on a 301 Fantic that used to go forward still when you pulled the clutch in. Maybe if you have all steel plates, this is not the answer!! I never liked the idea of forcing the disengagement with the front wheel up against a wall. Bye, Peter B.
  4. Gestetner, invented by an Hungarian bloke sometime between the Bronze and Iron age!
  5. G'day Ash, as far as I know there is no workshop manual for the Zero, you could ask some of the guys from the Manawatu and Ixion clubs for any tech help. Bye, Peter B.
  6. As far as I know, there are no replacement levers for Formula master cylinders other than standard, plus as lineaway mentioned, you would be better off replacing the Formula masters with AJP or Braktec. I looked at modifying AJP levers to fit the Formula master, but the pivot/actuation points are too dissimilar to be effective. Bye, Peter B.
  7. The extra washer should not be there. There should be a washer in between the kickstart shaft and the outer casing, but I am not sure if this should be 0.5 or 1.0mm thick, have a look on the parts list description, as the "extra" washer may be from there. Bye, Peter B.
  8. peterb

    Bantam

    Pretty sure it was Mick Whitlock
  9. Pretty sure the teflon lined bushes are the same for the TR range 2012 and 2013 linkage systems. The only difference I remember for that year was the link arm, which for 2013 had steel pins in lieu of the vastly superior anodised aluminium pins, and was a retrograde step, the pins would tend to rust up and seize in place. I don't have a 2013 Explorer parts book, just the TR280 so can only go by this. Later years had a larger diameter rocker pin/bush assy so the rocker itself would have a different p/n. Hope this helps, Bye, Peter B.
  10. peterb

    Sherco engine mount.

    I don't think it would weld too well but certainly worth having a go. There are a number of reasons why this might have happened. The other engine mount bolts, including the s/arm bolt and bash plate bolts may have been loose plus one of my dislikes about some of the trials bikes, is that, generally the engine bolts tend to go in from new with the apparent use of a hammer as the mounting brackets are not quite where they should be, this puts the motor mounting lugs in a stressed condition and eventually something has to give, especially when the bike is being bounced over rocks. I haven't worked on a Sherco so cannot comment about these. Bye, Peter B.
  11. You can click on the GG site for a 2015 (Hidria model) TXT https://gasgas.com/en/manuals then open up the link for "Manual" and there are wiring diagrams on p41, 42, 43. Bye, Peter B.
  12. Try the piston manufacturers like Vertex in Italy http://www.gb.vertexpistons.com/ they may have pistons that are a similar bore diameter and gudgeon pin diameter which could fit the TR range. Bye, Peter B.
  13. peterb

    1996 gas gas

    Hi Steve, there were only 3 screws used for the disc on those bikes. Drain the oil, remove, inspect and clean the clutch plates then re-fill with 600ml of ATF rated to Dexron III. 750ml is stated from the factory but 600 is just fine and check if the plates are sticking. Follow this link for a parts manual. Bye, Peter. https://www.motocrosscenter.com/pdf_manual_gasgas/1996jtr250partsbook.pdf
  14. peterb

    1996 gas gas

    Hi Steve, as mentioned above, you could try Richard Allen, he is a trials bike breaker (Are we ok to mention names on the site?) Why a complete clutch hydraulic system? Usual problems are the seals failing in the master cylinder, which should have DOT 4 oil, you can buy replacement piston/seal kits from most dealers, but would need one for DOT 4 and not mineral oil. The slave cylinder can occasionally come up with problems with the ball bearing in the centre of the piston getting pushed back and then noticing this by the clutch not being allowed to travel far enough to dis-engage properly. There were piston/seal kits for these too. Clutch plates on the older bikes were susceptible to water (usually from a failed water pump shaft/seal), the water if left on the plates causes them to de-laminate. OEM plates dried out (ok then, a pun) a long time ago in a factory far away, but you can get replacement clutch packs from S3 and Sureflex. Don't know what you mean by the fixing to hold on the rear brake disc, the disc is bolted to the hub. Bye, Peter B.
  15. peterb

    1996 gas gas

    What parts do you need? Have you already tried Gas Gas UK, or their dealer network. Bye, Peter.
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