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About peterb

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Vertigo ICE 300

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  • Location
    Auckland NZ
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  1. Factory recommended 350ml but they are fine to run with more oil, I always used 400ml. Bye, Peter B.
  2. That "2 gear" TXT50 has a centrifugal clutch with a manual over ride. It can be used in either high or low gear but it is not designed to be changed while on the run. Released around 2000, they were well made and quite pricey. Parts are really hard to obtain. Bye, Peter B.
  3. GG changed from DOT4 to mineral oil for the clutch hydraulics in 2004 so the 2003 model would have been DOT4 as mentioned earlier. From the description it seems as though the clutch master is passing and needs a new DOT4 kit. Bye, Peter B.
  4. peterb

    Monty 348

    Section swept, what a very good post. I also tend to use ATF in clutches, Bultaco's too for well over 30 years now. Never had any problem with ATF in the clutch on any bike. Bye, Peter B.
  5. Looks like the port has been enlarged and a bridge added, I haven't seen that on a standard barrel Villiers motor before.
  6. The noise you describe is in line with a main bearing failure, however the age of the bike would suggest not. Has the bike been drowned and not fully cleaned out at all? You have checked all bolts, s/arm, head steady, sump plate as mentioned before. Other things causing vibration and noise are the ignition flywheel, which if loose would very soon have sheared the woodruff key, also on the other side of the crankshaft is another flywheel weight, pretty sure on the Beta they are a taper fit so if this was loose then there would be no drive to the clutch. Does sound like a main bearing failure. Bye, Peter B.
  7. Hi Jim, I've not worked on an old Ossa clutch, but there may be a couple of things to look out for. One is the condition of the clutch centre and clutch basket, where the clutch plate "ears" or "tabs" connect, on older bikes, the long term use of the clutch can cause the tabs to cut grooves into the basket, I have seen this on Bultaco's that I have worked on, which may prevent the plates freeing up. The other more usual problem, is that the plates are sticking together hydraulically, one way to cure this is to drill 5 or 6 holes in the annulus where the fibres drive the steel plates, 6mm dia hole is sufficient. It worked for me on a 301 Fantic that used to go forward still when you pulled the clutch in. Maybe if you have all steel plates, this is not the answer!! I never liked the idea of forcing the disengagement with the front wheel up against a wall. Bye, Peter B.
  8. Gestetner, invented by an Hungarian bloke sometime between the Bronze and Iron age!
  9. G'day Ash, as far as I know there is no workshop manual for the Zero, you could ask some of the guys from the Manawatu and Ixion clubs for any tech help. Bye, Peter B.
  10. As far as I know, there are no replacement levers for Formula master cylinders other than standard, plus as lineaway mentioned, you would be better off replacing the Formula masters with AJP or Braktec. I looked at modifying AJP levers to fit the Formula master, but the pivot/actuation points are too dissimilar to be effective. Bye, Peter B.
  11. The extra washer should not be there. There should be a washer in between the kickstart shaft and the outer casing, but I am not sure if this should be 0.5 or 1.0mm thick, have a look on the parts list description, as the "extra" washer may be from there. Bye, Peter B.
  12. peterb


    Pretty sure it was Mick Whitlock
  13. Pretty sure the teflon lined bushes are the same for the TR range 2012 and 2013 linkage systems. The only difference I remember for that year was the link arm, which for 2013 had steel pins in lieu of the vastly superior anodised aluminium pins, and was a retrograde step, the pins would tend to rust up and seize in place. I don't have a 2013 Explorer parts book, just the TR280 so can only go by this. Later years had a larger diameter rocker pin/bush assy so the rocker itself would have a different p/n. Hope this helps, Bye, Peter B.
  14. peterb

    Sherco engine mount.

    I don't think it would weld too well but certainly worth having a go. There are a number of reasons why this might have happened. The other engine mount bolts, including the s/arm bolt and bash plate bolts may have been loose plus one of my dislikes about some of the trials bikes, is that, generally the engine bolts tend to go in from new with the apparent use of a hammer as the mounting brackets are not quite where they should be, this puts the motor mounting lugs in a stressed condition and eventually something has to give, especially when the bike is being bounced over rocks. I haven't worked on a Sherco so cannot comment about these. Bye, Peter B.
  15. You can click on the GG site for a 2015 (Hidria model) TXT https://gasgas.com/en/manuals then open up the link for "Manual" and there are wiring diagrams on p41, 42, 43. Bye, Peter B.
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