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  1. Thanks for this advice. Hope to build the puller this weekend and have bought high tensile bolts that can be threaded as far as possible into the flywheel.
  2. First thing I need to do is remove the flywheel but am not keen to pay 120 Euro for a Jitsie tool so need to make one and have ordered the metal today. Will then strip the engine in the bike if possible.
  3. I think the oil leak is the problem. This is what I found when I removed the flywheel cover!
  4. Thanks Peterb, that sounds quite likely as there was more exhaust smoke than usual. Will check it shortly.
  5. Thanks Tiewrap. Is replacing the TPS quite easy to do or are any special tools needed for set up?
  6. I’ve had my 2017 bike from new and never had any problems - still on the original 9V battery! However, when I got the bike out yesterday for the first ride in a few weeks it would start OK but would not run smoothly. It felt as if it was running very rich, it wouldn’t rev very cleanly and then struggled to tick over. I checked the plug and it was very black. Also quote smoky when it was running. Vertgio UK weren’t sure what it was but clarified that the TPS sensor failure usually makes the bike very lean, so unlikely to be that. Am about to book it into a dealer for a check, but has anybody got any suggestions?
  7. Hi Primodius. Can you please send me the manual for the early Vertigo models? Send to mikedowson@btinternet.com Your help is very much appreciated. Mike
  8. dowsonm


    Any news on the winners. My guess is Dabill, Price then Richardson.
  9. dowsonm

    Rear wheel spacers

    JSP - what size are the front wheel bearings - the same as the rear?
  10. Thanks for the feedback everybody (well, maybe not evoalien!! )
  11. I collect my 2017 Combat Camo this weekend and wondered what owners think is the best way to mount a number board? Or is it better to just tape the number over the light?
  12. Billy - the 2010 bike has a washer in addition to the O-ring so maybe they removed it on later models. It is shown on the parts diagram: Thanks for the feedback so far. Not there yet, but still trying things to improve the bike's running.
  13. Thanks for the reply billyt. By "mixture screw" I meant the fuel mixture screw and I bought a standard one form the UK importers. I agree it is a pig to get at so will consider getting the US version or I think Jitsie also make one. Can you say that if this screw is set incorrectly that it has a significant impact on performance? Also, how can you tell which way round the air filter boot goes? I spent a lot of time looking at the one I removed and the new one and concluded that it was symmetrical - but happy to be shown the correct way round. Thanks again. Mike
  14. Looking for some advice with my 2010 Evo 300 4T. The bike has been running fine for some time, but at a trial few weeks ago the carb had come loose from the engine when the rear boot to the airbox had failed. I got it reconnected and it did run for a while, but stalled in a section so I retired. I have replaced the boot to the air box and stripped the carb to blow out the jets and also fitted a new mixture screw. The bike now starts OK, especially when cold but as I ride it, if I hold the throttle slightly open the bike will judder and stall. If you get past the low revs it will rev OK. After a few minutes at tick-over the bike will usually stall. Another thing I did notice was that when I have the bike on a paddock stand it ran OK, but when I then lifted it off, the movement of the bike seemed to start the symptoms – maybe something to do with the fuel supply or float? I have tried the adjust the air screw using a type of right angle screwdriver – is it possible that the wrong setting (I was running it at 2 turns out) can make such a difference? All feedback welcomed. Thanks Mike
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