terryh Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 (edited) Hey people, Im having trouble getting my beamish suzuki 1981 bike working. i don't really know what is wrong with it, i have tried the cdi unit for the spark, i have put fresh petrol in and i have checked everything else that i thought might be the problem, and it still will not start. There is one thing i was not sure about, that is the clutch plate. When i took the casing off, oil came out and at the time i thought this was the problem and oil is not meant to be in there. so i blocked it up where i believe he oil was coming throught, and now it still does not work. i know some bikes clutch plates are dry and some are not, so i was wondering is the beamish suzuki 1981 250cc trails bike clutch plate is meant to be dry or wet. Please can your help me on this. I will Appreciate you help Thankyou Alex Hewson Edited May 27, 2007 by terryH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 Alex, Theres ment to be oil in there, so unblock whatever you blocked up and top up the oil again! on the clutch casing you took off there should be a small bolt weve a cross cut into it, this will be slightly raised above the rest , this will be the oil level bolt! weve the bike upright put the oil in poss 700-800cc and keep an eye on the oil dribbling out of the said bolt hole! when it does the oil level should be right! first have you got a GOOD! spark laying the plug on the cyl head and kicking it over? is there good compression (when the plugs in!) is the spark plug wet weve fuel? if not the carb proberly wants stripping and cleaning! how long was it since you last started the bike! goodluck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terryh Posted May 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 (edited) Alex, Theres ment to be oil in there, so unblock whatever you blocked up and top up the oil again! on the clutch casing you took off there should be a small bolt weve a cross cut into it, this will be slightly raised above the rest , this will be the oil level bolt! weve the bike upright put the oil in poss 700-800cc and keep an eye on the oil dribbling out of the said bolt hole! when it does the oil level should be right!first have you got a GOOD! spark laying the plug on the cyl head and kicking it over? is there good compression (when the plugs in!) is the spark plug wet weve fuel? if not the carb proberly wants stripping and cleaning! how long was it since you last started the bike! goodluck! Thankyou for your help i very much appreciate it . i will unblock the hole now, the spark is excellent, when i kick it over it is fine. It nearly brakes my leg , the spark plug is not wet with fuel and i will clean th carb just in case. If i can get it going tonight i will be bezzing around on it till dawn comes . The last time i started it was about 12 to 18 months ago because i had another bike that my dad decided to sell for no apparent reason. . Do you have know were i can find a workshop manual of the beamish on the internet? or can you recommend a place that sells them so i can buy one? thankyou for your help now i am happy im off to barn to try and get it workingnow. i will let you know how i get on. thanks for the help very much appreciated Alex Hewson Edited May 27, 2007 by terryH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 Alex' if youve not started the bike for that amount of time squirt a bit of neat 2-stroke oil down the sparkplug hole and turn it over a few times, drain out the old fuel (it will be useless) clean out the carb! partically the pilot jet (the smallest jet!) and the bike should run! haynes never made a manual for the beamish suzukis! ebay best bet! as if you look you can find the original suzuki manual that came with these bikes expect to pay around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beamish owners club Posted May 30, 2007 Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 Hello Alex, If you have done as Scotty says, you should be up and running by now. DON'T buy a manual for you black engine Beamish! If you go to my website http://www.beamishownersclub.com/_sgg/m4m1s1_1.htm you can get it for free - most of the ones on eBay are a rip off and incomplete. Clean you carb with an aerosol of carb cleaner, it disolves the deposits and old oil that build up in 2 stroke carbs, it's about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terryh Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Hello Alex,If you have done as Scotty says, you should be up and running by now. DON'T buy a manual for you black engine Beamish! If you go to my website http://www.beamishownersclub.com/_sgg/m4m1s1_1.htm you can get it for free - most of the ones on eBay are a rip off and incomplete. Clean you carb with an aerosol of carb cleaner, it disolves the deposits and old oil that build up in 2 stroke carbs, it's about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave dix Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 You need a special puller to remove the flywheel with.The pulser box is behind the f/wheel but be careful when removing the mag. Have you tried bump starting it? in about 3rd or 4th gear Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcgods Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Get some Bradex Easy Start and squirt this into the airbox, this is a highly flammable mix that gets engines going. I have a Bultaco which was unused for 25 years, oil down the bore, changed the fuel, cleaned the carb did all the usual stuff and nothing. A squirt of that and away she went and is still running now. Another idea is to warm the spark plug up on the gas hob this normally does the trick on my bikes that have stood for a while and are resisting all my normal methods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 You need a special puller to remove the flywheel with.The pulser box is behind the f/wheel but be careful when removing the mag.Have you tried bump starting it? in about 3rd or 4th gear Dave dave incidently i also need this flywheel puller as ive also got a pe175 and that needs a engine strip! crooks wants Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcgods Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 That looks possible to make, bit of plate steel, 4 holes drilled in the right places, could be a nice little project, the bolts screw into the flywheel and the middle bolt is the puller Attached pic shows kind of what I mean where it shows nuts these should be welded onto the plate as this would be stronger than threading it (i have a plate for pulling BSA Bantam cases together onto the crank and that has stripped it's thread). This would be possible if had all the tools making sure the bolt for the puller would fit down the hole in middle of flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty Posted June 1, 2007 Report Share Posted June 1, 2007 cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcgods Posted June 1, 2007 Report Share Posted June 1, 2007 Must point out that is a quick wordart sketch of it, and dont use it to measure from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totalshell Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 go for the 'easy start spray' and the warm spark plug my '72 montesa was a pig to start if it had been laid up for a month or so and even with the air filter off anf more than generous helping of the spray it would stilll take a trilllion kicks but when it was going once you could stop and start at will as long as you left it no longer than about a week between runs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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