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beamish owners club

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  1. You are right that Sammy farmed everything out but I wasn't aware that Mick Whitlock did any work for him.
  2. My best friend died in May (he was on here as Monoped) and has left behind his private collection of bikes that I am now looking after them on behalf of his daughter. He had what he always called his 'Miller Bultaco 350' which has a chrome frame with the number 715. A recent visitor to my place called into question that it is a Miller frame as there is no rear loop. On closer inspection, the brazing does look remarkably like that of Mick Whitlock and the footpeg mounts are identical to the Whitehawk. I don't want to misrepresent this bike when I come to sell it or under sell it if it is a more desirable/rarer model than the Miller. Can anyone shed any light on this aftermarket frame?
  3. The same thing happened to me today on my (new to me) 06 Repsol 4RT. Is it a big job to replace the shaft? What's involved?
  4. Hi Woody, this is a bush but not one that is shown in the manual, possibly because it's not something that can be changed without special tools. Drop the fork valve back into the slider to check that there is not excessive wear in the bush. You don't need to remove it to have your forks re-chromed, certainly not by Philpots anyway. I have never had one bad enough to warrant seeking replacement but I think that Philpots could do that for you if you sent them the valve tube with the stanchion.
  5. When Beamish modified the RL250 they cut 1" from the fork stanchions, put a reducer in the carb to bring it down to 24mm, used a #27.5 pilot and #120 main jets and added a 1Kg flywheel weight to them magneto. If you do fit a flywheel weight, make sure you remove the small piece of aluminium webbing in the bottom of the casing or it will foul the weight. Beamish also threw away the Suzuki frame in favour of their own but there are only a handful of those in the States! If you are riding a courses laid out for twinshocks there should be no need to alter your steering angle, if you are riding ones that are laid out for modern bikes then you probably do!
  6. All Beamish' are rare, yes they all have a chrome frame made of 531 tubing, yes all the black engine models have an alloy bash plate and an alloy tank and yes they all had a reed valve but there are only about 1,000 of them left running - mostly tucked away in someone's shed it's true. But do you ever see one at a trial? Doubtful, they are all cosseted away in sheds! If you really want to see a rare one, go to the home page of my website www.beamishownersclub.com
  7. Hi Rob, Reed block gasket - Crooks Single spring from exhaust manifold to U pipe - Crooks Base gasket - Crooks (as soon as they get some in) or make one Anything you find you are short of let me know through the website and I am sure we can sort you out. There is a manual on there which is a free download PDF. Why do you think there is more than one spring?
  8. Hi Rob, it soulds like you may have an air intake leak judging from the engine racing and the air screw being 3/4 turn out. You should have a spring holding the U front pipe into the manifold, you may find that the is a lot of carbon in the fitting where the U pipe slots into the manifold stopping it go all the way in, this needs to be cleaned out and a spring fitted from the ring welded to the U pipe and the hole in the manifold. Check your base gasket and fit a new one anyway when you replace the barrel after sorting out the thread problems. Check the rubber inlet manifold to ensure it is not perished and ther are no cracks around where the rubber is bonded to the metal. Re-assemble the reed cage with a new gasket between it and the barrel. If your reeds are steel REPLACE THEM! They are almost certainly original and if you read the manual, it is recommended that you replace these every 6-12 months. Crooks have fibre reeds for £15, they inprove the performance of your engine and won't damage it if they break up unlike steel ones. If you are on a standard bore (80mm) think about replacing your rings while you have the barrel off, these are £7.50 from the Beamish Owners Club at the moment for genuine rings. Check your pilot jet too, the Club have new ones for 50p at present for a 20 pilot jet, they also have the rubber manifold should you need it. Check all other possible sources of an air intake leak. Hope this helps.
  9. Now a blind test would be something I am supremely qualified for Nigel!
  10. Thanks Richt, that's all I needed to know!
  11. I have a mapping swithc on my TXT Pro and the makrs have worn off, is the sunshine switch on when the larger button is pressed in or the smaller button pressed in? I have read all the debate about whether they work or don't do anything but I would like to know in which position it is supposed to do which!
  12. HI Suzuki250, the problem is almost certainly your side stand spring, you need to replace it or examine your stand to see why it is not keeping tension on the spring.
  13. Do you find your RL325 a bit of a handful at low speeds? There are a few ways you can calm it down. 1. There is a hole in the barrel just above the exhaust port that get clogged with carbon. You can feel it in the top of the exhaust outlet as a channel, the hole is only about 2mm but if this is cleaned out it will make quite a difference at low speeds, that is what it is there for. There is no hole on the RL250. 2. The standard ignition system on the beamish is analogue and linear, you can get a mapped digital ignition that calms it down at low speeds but still give you all the power when you open the throttle. 3. You can fit a thicker head gasket to lower the compression ratio, you may want to do this if you are a beginner on a RL325. If you want to improve your bottom end performance it is easily done for about £15 by fitting Hi-Tech fibre reeds. The Beamish manual suggest you change your reed petals every six month - I bet most RL325's are running on 30 year old reeds that are weakened through metal fatigue! Hi-Tech reeds are avaiable from Crooks Suzuki.
  14. I have a 24mm OKO on my TY175. I am just having a Mikuni flat slide developed for the RL325 and a 26mm OKO for the RL250 - watch this space!
  15. If you have cleaned the clutch plates thoroughly and tried everything from 10/40 to 20/50 oil then you will just have to live with it. A lot of them do it but not all. Fantics and TY250 monos are prone to the same problems I believe. How much oil are you putting in it by the way? The casting on the casing and the manual differ in what they say the quantity should be. Use the level screw to get the right amount of oil. You could even try running 100cc less and see how that works. Gas Gas UK recommend running the Pro engine will less than the manual states and it does make a difference to the clutch operation. Don't go lower than 100cc less than the amount of oil you drain out once you have it corredtly measured on the level screw. I rebuilt a Beta 80 a few months ago for my son, the online manual was not clear about oil volume and I put 450cc in it, the clutch was dragging, wouldn't disengage sometimes particularly from cold. I found out it should have 300cc and now it works perfectly.
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