zippy Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 OK here is the long story: Got a TY80 from a relative, was told it was running before gas all evaporated out of tank and tank rusted up. First did a Kreem kit on the tank (looks spiffy) clean out carb. still don't run quite right. Cleaned out carb numerous times. still don't run quite right. This is the most recent items done to bike: clean carb with solvent, remove all jets, choke assembly, remove air fuel screw, clean all parts and blew compressed air through all passages. Set the carb with fuel air screw 1.5 full turns out. set needle clip in 2nd from top groove. Was originally in the top groove. gap spark plug NGK B6HS (nice golden brown in color) gapped to .022in or .5-.6mm This is how it runs: Starts pretty easy with choke It will warm up when sitting idling if given gas it will bog down and stall. If you are able to keep the revs up it runs beautiful. messing with choke about 1/4 or 1/2 choke will keep the revs up. it will idle well for quite some time and then eventually stall. have tried upping the idle a bit, but no change in how it responds to gas, but if idle adjusted up to where it runs good it sounds like it reving pretty high. if reved up good runs great and will cruise around yard with my big tush on it. In order to ride around yard gotta rev it up and basically dump the clutch and keep revs up, when shifting it will bog when first shifting but with much gas will rev up and go. (this all may be due to my big tush being on it aroung the yard. Changed the needle clip back to the top groove, and this had no effect on how it ran. Even after the head, exhaust pipe, and exhaust gasses are HOT it still will bog when given gas while idling in neutral. Also noticed al fair amount of oil on the cases and area near the base gasket location. Any ideas? What did I goof up? What catastrophic thing is broke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapid roy Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 (edited) HI Try replacing the condenser under the flywheel I had a problem a few years back with ty175 Condenser and new points, sorted Hope this helps cheers Edited September 21, 2007 by rapid roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraggydog64 Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 Its sound to me like it could be running lean at low revs. If its stood for a while the pilot jet may be tarnished. Try cleaning it with a strand or two of copper very gently. If that doesn't work it may be the flywheel side crankshaft seal letting leaking and letting air into the engine. Hope its something easier though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottt Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 You havent mentioned the air filter? I just bought a TY80 that was running a bit odd, the air filter foam just crumbled away in my hands when i opened the air box, new filter and its going great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 air filter is okie dokie, I even tried running the bike with out the air filter for a few minutes and it did not change. The bike came with a tune up kit, New points, condenser, and plug. I will give the points and condenser a try. I have not done this sort of thing so a few questions What is the proper method of flywheel removal so that ignition timing is not messed up? what is the proper gap for the points? (sll I remember from when I was a kid was they need tobe gapped right) I hope it is not a crankshaft seal. Thanks for all the ideas and help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy.t Posted September 22, 2007 Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 (edited) Hi, it could be worth having a close look at the reed cage,remove the reeds and check that they are flat and not bent,if they are in a poor condition then they will not open as they should.Its worth checking the timing just to prove that its not the problem,look on Ebay and you will find the correct extractor for the job,should be about 6 to 10 pound,it should just screw into the flywheel and then tighten up the centre bolt,tap the end of the bolt with a hammer if its tight and it should pop off.Give the bike a good clean with Gunk then try and pinpoint the leak. Regards Andy ps the contact gap should be .35mm(0.014in)you have to set this with the flywheel on in case you didnt know as the cam is on the flywheel,have fun when the screw driver and the feeler gauges get stuck to the magnets. Edited September 22, 2007 by Andy.T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 Well have made my decision then: I was originally trying to get it running perfect and then sell it. it is becoming more than I want to deal with cuz it just needs to leave my garage. So I just gonna sell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hallier Posted September 23, 2007 Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 Well have made my decision then:I was originally trying to get it running perfect and then sell it. it is becoming more than I want to deal with cuz it just needs to leave my garage. So I just gonna sell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hallier Posted September 23, 2007 Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 Shame as these were a good wee machine and now worth a serious dollar for a good one. I see no one picked up on the oil around base of barrel My choice would be for a leaking barrel gasket or crankshaft seal allowing air to be sucked in when the throttle is opened. Judging by the age of the machine if the crankshaft seals havent been done by now then this or the barrel gasket would be the best if not easiest choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottt Posted September 23, 2007 Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 the contact gap should be .35mm(0.014in)you have to set this with the flywheel on in case you didnt know as the cam is on the flywheel,have fun when the screw driver and the feeler gauges get stuck to the magnets. Yes its a nightmare, I solved the problem of doing that on my TY175 by buying a spare flywheel and taking an angle grinder to it so with the spare flywheel on theres a huge gap (1/2 the flywheel missing) which allows me to adjust the points without any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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