organic coolant with NO water added

from the Web:

Fresh Water. In stagnant distilled water at room temperature, magnesium alloys rapidly form a protective film that prevents further corrosion. Small amounts of dissolved salts in water, particularly chlorides or heavy metal salts, will break down the protective film locally, which usually results in pitting. Dissolved oxygen plays no mayor role in the corrosion of magnesium in either freshwater or saline solutions. The corrosion of magnesium alloys by pure water increases substantially with temperature.

Organic compounds. Aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons, ketones, ethers, glycols and higher alcohols are not corrosive to magnesium and its alloys. Ethanol causes slight attack, but anhydrous methanol causes severe attack. The rate of attack in the latter is reduced by the presence of water. Pure halogenated organic compounds do not attack magnesium at ambient temperatures. At elevated temperatures or if water is present, such compounds may cause severe corrosion, particularly those compounds having acidic final products.

Looking through the 2008 manuals, for both the 2-stroke and 4-stoke, Beta calls out the coolant as "Bardahl Permanent". A web search does not turn up a match. But, you can find "Bardahl -38" and "Bardahl Long Life". I am assuming that the word permanent may just be a bad translation of long-life. If so, the spec sheet shows that coolant to still contain water, but it is "demineralized" water. From that, I would assume that this means that the salts, chlorides, etc. are removed, but there is still water content.

Tiletrialer

i'd really appreciate your view on how easy/difficult it is to change this casing. I would particularly like to know how the water impeller shaft/assembly comes apart when you remove the case.

Thanks

straight foward job really, have not put casing back on yet ,but all ready to go.

drain oil and water first.remove water pump and clutch covers,undo 7 bolts around casing note where they go or put them on a card they are all different lengths,

i then removed sump gaurd, the black rubber under the engine gets in the way it seemed easier to remove it.

casing slides off.

the water pump has a black impeler on one side and a white cog on other. the black impeler has a circlip holding it on ,remove this, impeler slides off , tap spindle out through seal and bearings. there are 2 small race bearings here and a seal, look at the way round the seal is.its stops the water from the pump going into the oil so it looks as though its the wrong way round but its not.

the bearings for the kick start and gear change come in the new casing.

there are 2 locating pins you need to take out of the old casing and the oil level glass needs to be changed to new casing

I replaced all bearings and seals, the 2 small water pump bearing looked fine and could proberbly been reused , new gasget and new rubber

o rings to outer casings.

i am assuming it will all go back together fine ( famous last words) i will no tomorrow, any problems i will let you know.

Thanks for you reply. Hope it all goes back together ok!!!.