.... I should have taken out the bolts and replaced them with zip ties, but I didn't, and I flipped it, and my rear fender snapped into three pieces.

New rear fender for a 2002 Lampkin rep 315r, that'll be

I have bought unstickered 1998 red mudguards in the past a lot cheaper than that. All stickers come seperate with their own part no. The pre 2000 mudguards without the red paint on top are a lot more forgiving than the later versions.

Try a humberside dealer!

I'm relatively new to trials, so can you explain the zip-tie trick please? Are you saying to replace the 2 side bolts which attach the mudguard to the airbox? Are zip-ties really that much more forgiving than bolts? Or do you have to leave the zip-ties loose? And what about the center bolt which attaches mudguard to the fuel tank and frame?

I'm relatively new to trials, so can you explain the zip-tie trick please? Are you saying to replace the 2 side bolts which attach the mudguard to the airbox? Are zip-ties really that much more forgiving than bolts? Or do you have to leave the zip-ties loose? And what about the center bolt which attaches mudguard to the fuel tank and frame?

Zip-ties have saved me buying many a rear mud-guard on the different bikes I've had in the past.

Leave the front (vertical) bolt in place and remove the rear (horizontal) 2 bolts.

Remove the captive-nuts from the back of the airbox.

Thread one cable tie(english version) through the guard and airbox hole and tighten..repeat for the other side.

Check that the mud-guard still keeps the crap out of the airbox and.. voila.........The idea is that the ties snap in an emergency and not the plastic mud-guard (hopefully the guard just lifts a little and pivots on the front bolt).

I keep a selection of spare cable ties slotted into my bar-pad cover.

This procedure is not a guarantee of any sort, but like I say, I use it and it's worked for me.

It works for daft little flips but it can't help with the high speed ,cartwheel, get-offs that the experts have.

P.S> I remember that the unpainted 97black/98 red rear mud-guards were the cheapest.

Wayne

Edited March 5, 200818 yr by HAM2

I use three nylon screws on my Scorpa SY-250. I carry some extras in my Camelbak. These work great as the threads on the nylon screws either pull out or shear off. Takes just a minute to replace them. I haven't looked at a 315R or a 4RT in a while so I am not sure they will work but it might be worth a try. I buy the screws at the hardware store they are stocked in the assorted bits and pieces bins.

Ciao

DFW

I used to use plastic car trim fixing thingys. get a size that will push nice and tight into the existing thread.

car trim fixing thingys

Is that a technical term?