lselph Posted March 7, 2008 Report Share Posted March 7, 2008 So Spring is comming and I have a new bike that needs a few things. Feel free to offer suggestions or opinions on my list. MAINTENANCE - New chain is a must, accompanied by front and rear sprocket. Front is starting to curl... back looks immaculate but I would never do one without the other. If I find out the back is newer than the front and the tooth spacing looks good then I guess I will just have a spare. - Muffler. He had the muffler ignite on him (read this on here elsewhere as well) so trying to decide whether to cut open and repack or replace. I did find a 2 or 3 inch crack in the muffler weld towards the front and from reading on here that may have been the exposure to oxygen that was needed for the inside gunk to light up. - plastic. Would love to replace front and rear fender but kind of expensive and I'm just going to bugger it up anyway so maybe I will get lucky and the magic wife fairy will leave one for me for my B-day. - how many links in chain? Plan on getting the Renthal R1 (once again thanks to posts on here) - if muffler ignited does that mean it's cleaned out or does that mean the innards have been cooked and need replaced. - If not replacing the innards I will just get the crack welded up, sew is like 260... - plan on running Automatic transmission Fluid in the gear box (have seen mixed reviews on this). - Have to find a good quality synthetic to mix with at 80:1 - Plan on adding more preload to the shock I have a few pounds on the previous owner and it seems to have too much race sag (also from lots of research on here). I weigh about 215 + or - depending on how much ordering out I do at work. I have heard mention of the "Red Spring" and wonder if maybe I should give it a try. Also I think the stock shock doesn't have dampening and rebound adjustments so if I consider changing the spring maybe I should just consider chanigng the whole shock to something more adjustable? Or am I just not seeing things. - Rear fender is melted from muffler fire (not bad), and front fender looks like it has either been bent or left in the sun. Would love to replace both but 120 for fenders and 140 for stickers and what not seems a bit much... although that would make it look brand new which would be cool given it is an 04. This is on the if I come into some extra money list. - bearings - previous owner had it for a year rode expert class said he never touched the bearings have read they should be repacked twice a year..... trying to decide if I want to rip her apart that far before getting to put time on it. - Do they make shorter levers. I love the hydralic clucth and brake and found significant control with just a finger or two. Or maybe I should just move them in so the end is all that is reachable then i could two finger till my hearts content and possibly with more control. So that is my list of to-do's for the bike. I got to ride it a bit the other day and it was a blast. Can't wait to get more into the sport! Any other suggestions or thoughts are always welcome. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 8, 2008 Report Share Posted March 8, 2008 Ok, let me see here, Not sure where you are located, but I would presume in the states, since you list a Harley and don't spell funny! Mix oil, if nothing else, go to the Yamaha shop and get a small bottle of Yamalube 2R, made by Torco, it is a simi-synth but is fine. I prefer the Maxima K2 that RYP sells. The Maxima MTF is good too, but if you are going to run ATF, at least go to the auto parts store and get the Mobile 1 synthetic or see if they have Valvoline 10-30or 10-40 synthetic motor oil for better clutch progression. Or go to the Chevy house and see if they have the Allison C-4 tranny juice. I have never had any problem with these on the Sureflex clutch, but ATF might be a bit grabbier. Don't bet on anything preventing a sticky clutch after sitting. Just be sure you are pointed at something CHEAP and SOFT when you first put them into gear! Chains, seems like I recall about 101 with the half link which you will need for that model. You will need to cut down a 103 link chain and figure accordingly I think. Someone may know something otherwise? The rear mudguard should have a foil backed thermal shield near the muff. If it is not there, hard running and high temps will definately melt the plastic! ALWAYS remove air filter and inspect airbox lower part for water entry after washing bike! Or it is just about as easy to simply remove mudguard and tank and filter, plug airbox and exhaust, wash the helofit and reassemble! Disassemble and thoroughly wash the airbox and clean the carby including the filter screen on the banjo inlet initally! This will give you a good start! Bite the bullet and go ahead and disassemble , totally clean and inspect and overpack the rear linkage with Maxima waterproof grease or = ! There should be next to NO free play in the linkage when feeling the swingarm with the bike on a support! Clean and inspect the steering head bearings, pack wheel bearings and lube axles and ck rear brake pedal pivot bearing while you are at it! All bolts get a bit of anti sieze! Be sure you do not get trapped water and corrosion in the plastic mag cover and treat with WD-40 or something! Drill a 1/16 drain hole in the bottom of the cover if you are gathering water. The stock spring will work, but I would take the static sag to near zero at your weight. 0-10mm. If the shock is not leaking, run it! Unless you just want to spend a lot! If the muff is too raspy sounding, replace it! Learn to ride with one finger covering front brake and clutch. Shortie(two finger) levers are more progressive due to a longer pivot point, mid length(3 finger levers) are a bit quicker from the sweet spot on the clutch side! Only use 1 finger on either! Hope that helps, I gotta have a beer! Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 8, 2008 Report Share Posted March 8, 2008 Almost forgot, put allen wrench on front bar clamp bolts and bring crossbar back to toutch it! Gives you a good positioning to start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 Check out the service manuals listed in the sticky posted on this page. There is a complete setup and maintenance guide available. Like Cope said, the clutch plates will stick, however a way that works to unstick them is to put the bike in 5th gear, pull in the clutch and kick it a couple of times. This method works no matter what other people will say, it is the method that Ryan suggested to me. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlracer Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 Good job Cope ! For once you answered a post with good advice and no smart a** answers. Maybe he has a good dealer close to him that could help also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lselph Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 Thanks a ton! Great info... can't wait to ride the heck out of it! It has pretty much snowed a whole poop load since I bought the bike. It's ok I have maintenance to get done anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Check out the service manuals listed in the sticky posted on this page.There is a complete setup and maintenance guide available. Like Cope said, the clutch plates will stick, however a way that works to unstick them is to put the bike in 5th gear, pull in the clutch and kick it a couple of times. This method works no matter what other people will say, it is the method that Ryan suggested to me. Wayne Wayne is correct, I call this method 3, Method 2 is to put it in 3rd or 4th and pull in clutch , then rock it back and furth till clutches break loose! I have had the "re stick" so always refer back to RULE#1(softest and cheapest) just to be sure! Always be sure you are at IDLE when placing in gear, and if you EVER get in a tight spot, just lay it over and get off the bike! I say all this as I have witnessed bad situations develop as a result! Go in the RIGHT direction and be safe! This applies to ALL bikes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lselph Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Well I had a little time last night so I dissasembled the rear end. Suspension felt pretty solid but I took apart the bearings and what not anyway. My dog bone bearings were dry as a bone. I shoved in some grease and reassembled but once everything was back to gether there appears to be play. I haven't torqued everything yet but every thing is pretty tight and it still plays a little. I am ordering chain and sprockets so I will get a price on bearings too. Next will pull apart wheel bearings and steering column/neck whatever you call it bearings. Then get the small crack in my muffler weld fixed and I will be set for most of the summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard Posted March 13, 2008 Report Share Posted March 13, 2008 Hi Cope, You say set the static sag at 0-10mm for someone at 225lbs. I'm about that . Can you tell me why less static for heavy people. Should the racing sag still be 60-75mmm please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 14, 2008 Report Share Posted March 14, 2008 Well I had a little time last night so I dissasembled the rear end. Suspension felt pretty solid but I took apart the bearings and what not anyway. My dog bone bearings were dry as a bone. I shoved in some grease and reassembled but once everything was back to gether there appears to be play. I haven't torqued everything yet but every thing is pretty tight and it still plays a little. I am ordering chain and sprockets so I will get a price on bearings too. Next will pull apart wheel bearings and steering column/neck whatever you call it bearings. Then get the small crack in my muffler weld fixed and I will be set for most of the summer. Iselph, if your bearings were not totally rusted and the bushings were not severely corroded or pitted from water entry you are probably still in good shape. It seema the dogbone bearings take the worst of it. Obviously these things take some wear, but water is the main culprit and why you want to overpack things so the bushings and washers provide a difficult path for water entry into the bearings themselves as the seals will not keep out everything. As things have to move, there will always be some slack as translated through the length of the swingarm. If I had to put this in numbers, 1/8 inch freeplay movement at the end of the swingarm is probably still OK, 1/4 inch is probably excessive! AND these things will not tighten up untill properly tightened, in particular the lower shock bolt and the bolt that goes through the delta link (top one )to the swingarm! Hope that helps, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 14, 2008 Report Share Posted March 14, 2008 Hi Cope, You say set the static sag at 0-10mm for someone at 225lbs. I'm about that . Can you tell me why less static for heavy people. Should the racing sag still be 60-75mmm please? Howard, I gather from your question that you know the difference! AllI can say is that I know heavyweight(expert) riders that have run the stock springs for years now and they do quite well, not that they would not be better off with a spring proper for their weight. But I also believe that the stock spring will provide better grip if not run up to an excessive preload in an effort to achieve a (race sag) or loaded number. I simply noticed that even at 185lbs, if I started jacking up the spring with too much preload I lost precious traction at times if it topped itself out when unloaded, as weight wise, I am sort of on that edge. I think this effect would only worsten if trying to achieve "race sag" for a rider of larger size. This is also where proper unloading tecnique comes into play, which is another topic. And also where most the experts manage to clear the skidplate when I cannot at times, yea simple, right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lselph Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 When i re took apart the dog bones I found the one bearing to be very loose in my hands. On the bike I could see one move and the other not. I am guessing cleaning out all the gung gave it room to be sloppy. So new ones are on the way. I have yet to find a cheap set of spanner wrenches to adjust my shock with so I haven't gotten a chance to play with sag. Once my bearings, chain, and sprockets come in it will be time to ride and play with suspension settings. Just hopping around in the yard I think I am going to run some heavier oil in the front shocks, and I am sure I need to add more preload to my rear shock. Man I love this stuff!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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