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2007 300pro Shifting Problems


elctb
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My 2007 300Pro has developed some difficulty to change gears that has progressively gotten worse. At first it was just difficult to up shift from 2nd to 3rd, but now it's difficult to up shift and down shift to several gears.

I tried adjusting the shift lever return mechanism by turning the oblong piece behind the clutch basket to no avail. Some gears work fine, but then other gears won't engage no matter the position of the oblong piece.

Is there anything I can check before I split the cases ? I read that there's a piece that can break and be replaced by just removing the clutch basket, but I can't see what that would be. Everything looks good as far as I can tell.

Any ideas ?

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HI THAT BIT YOU HAVE BEEN ADJUSTING IF YOU LOOK UP THE CENTRE OF THE PART WITH THE SPRING AROUND WHILST MOVING THE GEAR LEVER UP AND DOWN IF THE CENTRE BIT MOVES ON ITS OWN YOU ARE LUCKY JUST REPLACE THAT PART GOOD LUCK

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My 2007 300Pro has developed some difficulty to change gears that has progressively gotten worse. At first it was just difficult to up shift from 2nd to 3rd, but now it's difficult to up shift and down shift to several gears.

I tried adjusting the shift lever return mechanism by turning the oblong piece behind the clutch basket to no avail. Some gears work fine, but then other gears won't engage no matter the position of the oblong piece.

Is there anything I can check before I split the cases ? I read that there's a piece that can break and be replaced by just removing the clutch basket, but I can't see what that would be. Everything looks good as far as I can tell.

Any ideas ?

I'm assuming you adjusted the eccentric bushing correctly rather than just moving it around as that adjustment is very precise and there is a specific way you go about it. The proceedure is covered in the U.S. owner's manual DVD that comes with every bike sold in the U.S., but you can access it on this website: http://d-mis-web.ana.bris.ac.uk/personal/H...f/media/gasgas/ , under #12 "engine_adjustment" (I love that website).

The other piece you mention is the washer/bushing that the centering spring slides on (it kinda looks like an old stovepipe hat, same as the clutch servo cylinder) and theres a small steel piece that is brazed on the end and fits into the slot at the end of the shift shaft. This will sometimes snap at the braze point if the shifter is hit hard by a rock, but not always. If that was the problem, the shift lever would usually flop around without centering itself, so my guess is that it's not the problem.

I may have missed something else to check (wouldn't be the first time!), but if the shift centering spring is set correctly and the spring bushing/centering spring is in good shape, you may need to go inside the engine and look for bent shifting forks or a bent/broken limiting roller or roller springtab inside the shift drum.

Good luck.

Jon

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but if the shift centering spring is set correctly and the spring bushing/centering spring is in good shape, you may need to go inside the engine and look for bent shifting forks or a bent/broken limiting roller or roller springtab inside the shift drum.

It looks like I'm out of luck and will have to split the cases.

I'll decide if I want to do the job myself after watching the engine stripdown video. I'm a little worried since I've never done this before and I'm not sure I'll be able to correctly identify the parts that need replacing.

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Guest majestyman340
I'm assuming you adjusted the eccentric bushing correctly rather than just moving it around as that adjustment is very precise and there is a specific way you go about it. The proceedure is covered in the U.S. owner's manual DVD that comes with every bike sold in the U.S., but you can access it on this website: http://d-mis-web.ana.bris.ac.uk/personal/H...f/media/gasgas/ , under #12 "engine_adjustment" (I love that website).

The other piece you mention is the washer/bushing that the centering spring slides on (it kinda looks like an old stovepipe hat, same as the clutch servo cylinder) and theres a small steel piece that is brazed on the end and fits into the slot at the end of the shift shaft. This will sometimes snap at the braze point if the shifter is hit hard by a rock, but not always. If that was the problem, the shift lever would usually flop around without centering itself, so my guess is that it's not the problem.

I may have missed something else to check (wouldn't be the first time!), but if the shift centering spring is set correctly and the spring bushing/centering spring is in good shape, you may need to go inside the engine and look for bent shifting forks or a bent/broken limiting roller or roller springtab inside the shift drum.

Good luck.

Jon

Sounds a bit of a nightmare.............I will stick to my old Yam I think!

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Just to rule out a few things... can you shift gears normally with the engine turned off and rocking the bike forward/backward a little to help engage the gears?

Does the shifter feel normal when you do this? ie: does it have the spring back to the neutral position, or does it feel like there is something preventing it from springing back ?

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You sound determined, and I'm confident you'll find a solution.

I, myself, when I happen to get to the point where I'm ready to either cry, or shoot the bike, or sell the darned thing, take it to a qualified mechanic to have HIM solve the problem....that's when his fee is well worth it to me.

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Just to rule out a few things... can you shift gears normally with the engine turned off and rocking the bike forward/backward a little to help engage the gears?

Does the shifter feel normal when you do this? ie: does it have the spring back to the neutral position, or does it feel like there is something preventing it from springing back ?

I can shift some gears normally, others take a lot of rocking back and forth. When this happens the shift lever doesn't reach the end of its range of motion. It's like something is preventing from going all the way up (when up shifting) or all the way down (when down shifting). However, I'm always able to shift gears... eventually.

The shifter always springs back to the neutral position. It's the other direction that has problems. It can't reach the end of its range of motion.

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I can shift some gears normally, others take a lot of rocking back and forth. When this happens the shift lever doesn't reach the end of its range of motion. It's like something is preventing from going all the way up (when up shifting) or all the way down (when down shifting). However, I'm always able to shift gears... eventually.

The shifter always springs back to the neutral position. It's the other direction that has problems. It can't reach the end of its range of motion.

Sounds to me like its the tophat thing under the the return spring. You really need to take it off and examine if the keyway piece in it is actually broken or not. I was sure my transmission was buggered once, as it still shifted sometimes but the shifter would also slip around a few degrees when it didn't shift, but it turned out the keyway didn't fall completely out so it kind of shifted like you describe. Pop the tophat off and try some needle nose pliers on the keyway piece. It just might fall out like mine did. $20 (or equivalent) for the part I think.

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Sounds to me like its the tophat thing under the the return spring. You really need to take it off and examine if the keyway piece in it is actually broken or not.

Is there a trick for removing that tophat part off ? It seems to be stucked in there pretty good.

Edited by elctb
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Is there a trick for removing that tophat part off ? It seems to be stucked in there pretty good.

One circlip with washer. Should come straight off unless the shifter return spring is really out of whack and making it stick. Search this site for the service dvd files and download the parts fice for your bike from GG. They are free.

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