cdn280

Good stuff ! I can follow along as I do mine and feel free to ask for any photos etc. Mine is also a M21 but with left side shift. And speaking of photos, things have changed here since I was last here, and I can't find where this rich text editor option is so I can attach photos. Didn't see it in any settings page like the help says it is.

I've got a 2008 with the vent built into the cap. Pretty sure the family jewels broke off the plastic nub the vent line goes on during a sudden stop. JB welded the piece back on but knocked it off again a couple rides later and lost the hose with nub this time. Guess I'll try to JB a little piece of tube or something on it in the meantime. Anyone know of an aftermarket replacement ? I checked before I fixed it and it was about $50US shipped so I don't really want to pay that for another easily breakable part. Looks like the part I need is the only piece of the cap you can't buy separately, and the only part that looks like its breakable. (marketing genius) Part #16 in the fiche. BT280420010 Another piece I'd like to get a couple spares for is the rubber grommet for the clutch master cyl. Both bikes I've had popped it out and won't stay back in. You can't buy just the grommet. It comes with the adjuster pieces too. BT27722208 and BT280422209 (called pump sets) Is there an AJP parts supplier ?

Now theres an idea. Thanks !

Thanks for that. But that would be 4.76mm. I thought I saved some of the grotty originals but the only ones I have measure 6.3mm. Can anyone else verify a metric size or is the only standard sized part in an otherwise metric bike ?

Hi. I'm rebuilding an M21 Cota 247. Anyone know what size the balls are in the steering head ?

Can you post a pic of your setup and tell me what was needed to get it to work ? I'm restoring one now but the front brake was seized solid and the backing plate broke during removal.

My vintage project needs front axle seals. The ones found in it are 24x35x4 mm. Are these the right size for OEM ? Its hard finding anything narrower than 5.

Thanks for the link! Looks like they have what I need.

Does anyone have any contacts for some 1974ish Montesa Cota parts ? I'll probably need some clutch plates and would like to buy some engine gaskets rather than have to make them. I may be needing a fibreglass or replica seat/tank as well depending on how my attempt to repair it goes.

I've had a 2002 280 and now have a 2007 250. The newer one does have easier hot starting (but its smaller and the jetting is a bit different too) and will start in any gear with the clutch in. (when using ATF for gear lube) I've shown a couple others who had starting probs with theirs a technique that works great, and thats to engage the kicker gear at TDC as someone else said and then use a quick push on that stubby kickstart lever instead of a big jump up and follow though like you would on a big 4T. The short length of the lever and low turnover speed of the kicker gears seems to be the culprit. If you do it right the kicker may not even hit the footpeg. If you are whacking it the peg real hard it wouldn't be doing the kicker mechanism any good. Make sure you have the lever in the proper position on the spine to get the most rotation. If it doesn't work, then your pilot jetting may need some tweaking. All my buddies Sherco's have a much longer lever with a higher kickover speed and start super easy without any special 'methods'.

See the poll in >> http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=17883 Nothing richer than 50:1 listed... For a few yrs now, I've been using 70-80:1 for straight trials work and 50-60:1 for trail riding where I can actually use 5th or 6th gear

A good blow on a pointy object would be like hitting a brick with a chisel to a cast piece. Not quite the same effect on aluminum or steel tubing. I can see using cast pieces where there isn't much chance of flex, but quality of todays cast pieces seem to be going downhill don't you think? Some KTM950's are breaking the case around the kickstand mount too, and I've seen some horrible castings on some Huskie parts.

Thanks, don't know how I missed that... I must be new with computers or something. Oddly it looks like the same spot in the swingarm that broke on Billy Burns ISDE 300EC. Maybe cast alloy isn't such a great idea for a swingarm, or frame members period, like the Suzuki GSXR frame thats known for breaking.

What video ??

I've lost the slide on tank bolt nut before as well. Lost in the frame/wiring somewhere... The good thing is the clip is cheap, or you can get a body panel clip from somewhere that will also work.