dose anyone know of a replacement throttle cable for stock '86 tlr200 reflex oem is discontinued

Venhill make them

Try www.inmotiontrials.com - My mate has just bought one from them.

my imac computer will not load the page www.inmotiontrials.com properly do you know there email address thanks

For odd stuff I just make one. Especially if using modern bars, or Domino throttle, or removing Autolube.

I use a universal cable outer core (Dennis Kirk in the US), but toss the inner core and use a bicycle control cable. Slightly thinner and softer and more flexible, especially for kids hands, or for TY80 with tiny carbs. (throttles only, not for brake of course). The end ferrules I think were Barnett but from Kirk also. I bought a bunch long ago. There are setscrew type ends, but I am not very comfortable with possible loose parts in the carb end. Should not get below the slide, but I don't want any risk of inhaling any bits.

Assemble the ferrule to end, then fray out, dip in liquid solder acid flux. I use normal tin lead solder. Silver solder is stronger but the higher temperature required for melting can damage the cable wires. Melt the solder in a solder 'dip cup' made form a 3/4 inch copper tube cap, mounted on a longe screw or wire handle of some sort. Just melt the solder with torch, then dip the cable end in. Doesn't really matter how long you hold it in there, which is the beauty of dipping instead of direct heat. Controls the heat, more even all around, and less chance of overheating the fine wires. Then clean with soap and water, neutralize with baking soda, dry, then lube and ready to go.

Parts are so cheap I make two, and keep the one as a spare for later.

k

For odd stuff I just make one. Especially if using modern bars, or Domino throttle, or removing Autolube.

I use a universal cable outer core (Dennis Kirk in the US), but toss the inner core and use a bicycle control cable. Slightly thinner and softer and more flexible, especially for kids hands, or for TY80 with tiny carbs. (throttles only, not for brake of course). The end ferrules I think were Barnett but from Kirk also. I bought a bunch long ago. There are setscrew type ends, but I am not very comfortable with possible loose parts in the carb end. Should not get below the slide, but I don't want any risk of inhaling any bits.

Assemble the ferrule to end, then fray out, dip in liquid solder acid flux. I use normal tin lead solder. Silver solder is stronger but the higher temperature required for melting can damage the cable wires. Melt the solder in a solder 'dip cup' made form a 3/4 inch copper tube cap, mounted on a longe screw or wire handle of some sort. Just melt the solder with torch, then dip the cable end in. Doesn't really matter how long you hold it in there, which is the beauty of dipping instead of direct heat. Controls the heat, more even all around, and less chance of overheating the fine wires. Then clean with soap and water, neutralize with baking soda, dry, then lube and ready to go.

Parts are so cheap I make two, and keep the one as a spare for later.

k

I usually use the direct heat method, but that "dip cup" technique is neat, I'll try that next time. If you need to make cables for brakes/clutch, I like to use "aircraft control cable" which I was able to pick up at a good hardware store. It's woven (like throttle cables), not spiral wrapped, and quite flexible and strong and comes in several diameters.

Jon

jon: the dip cup method works really well. I have learned so much of your expereience from the posts and TC articles. glad to repay that, albeit in a 1:1000 ratio ! kcj

Edited May 9, 200818 yr by kevin j

jon: the dip cup method works really well. I have learned so much of your expereience from the posts and TC articles. glad to repay that, albeit in a 1:1000 ratio ! kcj

Thanks!

My philosophy is that experienced knowledge is most valuable when it's given away.

Cheers.

Jon