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Cracked Clutch Cover


wri5hty
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I cracked the clutch cover on my 300 04 gas gas earlier this year so bought a new one and the same has happened to this one i have only had it about 4-5 month and done 7ish trials with it. the crack is about 10mm from the top left bolt and goes right down to the hole for the kick start shaft. exactly the same as the old one. is this just a dodgy gas gas part coincidence or another problem possibly. any advice gratefully received

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I cracked the clutch cover on my 300 04 gas gas earlier this year so bought a new one and the same has happened to this one i have only had it about 4-5 month and done 7ish trials with it. the crack is about 10mm from the top left bolt and goes right down to the hole for the kick start shaft. exactly the same as the old one. is this just a dodgy gas gas part coincidence or another problem possibly. any advice gratefully received

This is unusual in my experience. The first thing I would check is that the correct washer is on the kickstart shaft, it's quite thin and the tolerances are tight there. If the washer is too thick, it would exert pressure on the inside of the case, but you usualy would feel binding of the shaft. I would think that a remote possibility would be that the kickstart rachet is not being engaged before kicking on the lever, which can cause several problems with the starting mechanism.

You might want to check some of the sealing surfaces with a straightedge.

Jon

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Well I'll be Dipped. looks like I am having the same issue, thought the gasket was responsible for the slight leak, but closer observation reveals a crack running through the top left bolt hole towards the slave cylinder. any feed back on which course of action to take would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Tim

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  • 3 weeks later...
I cracked the clutch cover on my 300 04 gas gas earlier this year so bought a new one and the same has happened to this one i have only had it about 4-5 month and done 7ish trials with it. the crack is about 10mm from the top left bolt and goes right down to the hole for the kick start shaft. exactly the same as the old one. is this just a dodgy gas gas part coincidence or another problem possibly. any advice gratefully received

this happened exactly to mine in the same place any suggestions

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thanks wri5hty, I bought a new cover to have as a just in case "$200.00 + US" then took the old cover and decreased it thoroughly

used high temp silicone on the inside and two part epoxy (JB weld ) on the outside. built it up with several layers to follow the natural contours of the cover with an additional layer around the outside of the cover (aprox 6mm thick) above the cracked bolt hole.

So far it has worked well no leak and no sign of further "crackage"

also replaced the hick start gear and idler, as they were pretty knackered

will make a mental note to henceforth engage the kick start gears properly before prodding the lever .

Tim

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If the cracks not completely across the casing you should drill a small hole at the ends, this should stop it progressing further.

Personally I would contact the importer or bike shop if this is a common problem, and your bike/cover is fairly new.

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also replaced the hick start gear and idler, as they were pretty knackered

will make a mental note to henceforth engage the kick start gears properly before prodding the lever .

Tim

Tim,

The knackered gears is almost always a sign that the racheting mechanism has not been engaged before pressure is put on the lever. A lot of riders will kick at the lever (rather than use body weight after locking up the mechanism) which causes the gears to be slammed together and as there is a slight flat spot on the engaging partial gear teeth, if it does not engage exactly perfect, that flat spot hits the edge of the idler gear before engaging and will chip it over time.

Jon

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thanks Jon & Tim looks like I'm not engaging the kick start properly before giving it a good wellie too. mines working now but still not to sure about it but that might be me being a bit paranoid. Jon if the needs be would i be best replacing the whole internals gear idler spring and shaft or is that a bit over the top cheers Paul.

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thanks Jon & Tim looks like I'm not engaging the kick start properly before giving it a good wellie too. mines working now but still not to sure about it but that might be me being a bit paranoid. Jon if the needs be would i be best replacing the whole internals gear idler spring and shaft or is that a bit over the top cheers Paul.

Paul,

Probably best to carefully inspect the parts before considering replacing them. If they are o.k., I'd leave them be as you are treating them differently now and there is a lot less stress and shock on them.

If you decide to replace them, you will get slightly different parts. The new racheting mechanisms installed on the new bikes (and are the only ones available for parts replacement) have a less pronounced angle to the spiral grooves and the lever engages them quicker. This means that the lever locks up higher at the start of the throw and you have a longer movement, which spins the engine over quicker.

Jon

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thanks Jon & Tim looks like I'm not engaging the kick start properly before giving it a good wellie too. mines working now but still not to sure about it but that might be me being a bit paranoid. Jon if the needs be would i be best replacing the whole internals gear idler spring and shaft or is that a bit over the top cheers Paul.

No trouble.

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