garethr Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 Hi, Just changed the fork oil on my '07 250 Sherco and was wandering what settings you guys use for the forks? According to the Sherco 2009 manual (http://www.sherco.com/service/2009manual_ST-2T.pdf) it recommends damping screw out all the way then in two clicks. I previously had the screw almost all the way in. The preload screw should be flush with the top of fork. Any comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 23, 2009 Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 Those settings seem to work fine. If you want a bit more damping, another click or two, but to taste! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted February 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 Ok... cheers copemech! The forks appear to have a groove around the top, which is about 7mm higher than the top of the yoke. Should this groove be flush with the top of the yoke or is it just to show the max setting?? I probably need to strip down the rear linkages and regrease as they have not been done yet. I've had the bike from new but havent ridden it all that much (Still on original tyres & pads etc). I weigh 13st (~185lbs) and was wandering if I should just wind the spring down a little as it feels a little bit soft. I havent looked yet, but is there a damping adjuster on the rear shocker too? If so... what do you recommend? Lastly... (for now!!!) when standing next to the bike and lifting the rear end to take up the sag in the suspension, it feels like there is a bit of play in one or more of the linkages when I get right to the top - or is this normal? Would it be an idea to replace any of the bolts or linkages or would regreasing suffice? I have some white putoline grease... is that ok to use? To think I've been riding for years... I sound like a complete novice in the maintenance dept!!! Oh well, I'm learning! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 (edited) Ok, well firstly, there should actually be two sets of grooves on top of the tubes. These are for guaging the height in the yoke and it seems most run them somewhere in the renge of one or both showing, so what you describe would probably be somewhere in between. Some use them out fully and flush(raising the front of the bike) for muddy events, as it is said this transferrs more weight to the rear. I always like to lube the linkage off new, as you need to overpack them with the waterproof grease in an effort to keep crud out. Usually the rear spring settles a bit from new and may need to be adjusted once or twice as much as three full turns on the adjusting nut. I usually know when they are sagging a bit because the bike does not want to sit well on the sidestand with the front pointed left. There is a damping adjuster screw accessable using a long straight blade screwdriver from about the angle of the chain tensioner inward. Someone help me recall here, think it was fully clockwise(quickest?/max?) then back in about two or three clicks to taste, I will have to check and verify for sure. Yep, seems correct! The spring properly preloaded should yield a static sag(weight of bike only) of 20-30 mm as you lift the rear and let settle. And lastly, well all the linkage and related clearances doo add up to a small click or feel of lost motion even when things are perfect. This should not be excessive though. A loose shock bolt or pivot bolt on the delta link can cause this to be excessive as well. You really need to check it all thououghly. Edited February 24, 2009 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 Thanks copemech! When I was younger I used to leave everything up to my dad to sort or wait until something broke! Now I'm learning to really get in there!!! I suppose it's a bit like cooking... you can either see it as a chore or really enjoy it! I will hopefully have a go at it tomorrow... Is there anything I need to look out for or is it fairly straight forward? I can remember my old Beta TR34 had a grease nipple on the swingarm linkage... what was wrong with that then!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 Thanks copemech! When I was younger I used to leave everything up to my dad to sort or wait until something broke! Now I'm learning to really get in there!!!I suppose it's a bit like cooking... you can either see it as a chore or really enjoy it! I will hopefully have a go at it tomorrow... Is there anything I need to look out for or is it fairly straight forward? I can remember my old Beta TR34 had a grease nipple on the swingarm linkage... what was wrong with that then!? Well Gareth, it is good you are taking interist, as the reliability of the bike and your satisfaction with it are primary. Keep things in good working order and it will last! New bikes are not cheap! There is a lot of info on the RYP site as per procedures. Seems I recall on the later models, the shocker needs to come out from the bottom though. Apan with sone mineral spirits and some sort of small brush will allow you to give the linkage components a good thorough clean and inspection. If the bearings have had too much water, they will be trash and the bushings pitted as well. Trash them! After drying(blow dry) and inspecting/ replacing bearings as neccessary, I like the Maxima waterproof grease, but I am sure there is other stuff out there. Some may state to mix it with anti-sieze compound, but if properly done with excess squeezing out upon reassembly, this is not mandatory. You can polish minor defects on the bushings with scotchbrite or crocus cloth, but if pitted , not! I have had to replace two bearings and two bushes over two years with proper treatment. Not bad! Swingarm bearing are not usually a problem area unless you are just exposed to lots of water, then every year! Coating the axel shafts themselves is a big deal, as you do not want them siezing in the bearings and such. Repacking of the steering head bearings is also advisable, another topic. But it seems all those small screws need a taste of grease or anti sieze. Do all you can, exhaust bung, fork clamps, engine bolts, All these little things make like more difficult if you let them corrode with use and washings! I can spend hours on wheels and spokes alone. Later, MC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted February 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 Thanks again for the advice cop! Can you give me an example of mineral spirits? (sorry for being thick!) I took everything apart following Waynes maintenance and lubrication guide and cleaned and greased everything up with Putoline white action grease. When replacing the bolt which holds the bottom of the shocker, i torqued it up correctly and thought I would give it just one more little tweak and the bloomin allen socket slipped making a bit of a mess of the bolt. As I had already torqued it up... I just left it! I wasnt too happy with myself as everything else had gone really well. I screwed the spring down two turns and checked that the damping adjuster was in all the way and out 2 clicks (I went for 4 clicks). Wow what a transformation! The bike is much more lively and nimble making trick riding a breeze! I'm just wandering if anything will suffer as a result (e.g grip or stability in say a rocky stream or on a hillclimb!?). I've learned that almost always when you gain something you sacrifice somewhere else. So far so good anyway... I love it. I've fitted new grips, AJP shorty levers, changed the fork oil, new renthal chain and talon sprokets, bought a putoline air filter cleaner & oiler kit. I'm going to change the transmission oil next... then what!? Oh yeah... spose I could ride it a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Thanks again for the advice cop!Can you give me an example of mineral spirits? (sorry for being thick!) I took everything apart following Waynes maintenance and lubrication guide and cleaned and greased everything up with Putoline white action grease. When replacing the bolt which holds the bottom of the shocker, i torqued it up correctly and thought I would give it just one more little tweak and the bloomin allen socket slipped making a bit of a mess of the bolt. As I had already torqued it up... I just left it! I wasnt too happy with myself as everything else had gone really well. I screwed the spring down two turns and checked that the damping adjuster was in all the way and out 2 clicks (I went for 4 clicks). Wow what a transformation! The bike is much more lively and nimble making trick riding a breeze! I'm just wandering if anything will suffer as a result (e.g grip or stability in say a rocky stream or on a hillclimb!?). I've learned that almost always when you gain something you sacrifice somewhere else. So far so good anyway... I love it. I've fitted new grips, AJP shorty levers, changed the fork oil, new renthal chain and talon sprokets, bought a putoline air filter cleaner & oiler kit. I'm going to change the transmission oil next... then what!? Oh yeah... spose I could ride it a bit Mineral spirits is commonly sold as paint thinner for oil based enamels. Should be easily available. Does not evaporate off quickly and can be stored and reused after settling the dirt out. Not as oily as kerosene or diesel. Less flammable than gasoline or some other light solvents like laquer thinner. You just need to play with that rear damping screw a bit, as you do need some damping action to add stability. Some of this seems to depend upon the age and use on the shocker as well. I have found most all the factory bolts to be rather inexpensive to replace. So you could order one in advance just to have on hand the next time round and chunk the old one. Then there are those steering head bearings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 (edited) That's cool! I'm enjoying myself... so stearing head bearings here we come! The bike is an '07 250 and I havent used it that much, but I'm 13st and ride expert at club level so it does take a bit of abuse. Here's a little vid I posted on You Tube a while ago of me and my son going for a ride. There's a nasty little step I'm trying to ride up at the end (looks bigger in the flesh ;-)... look out for my sidestand doing its best to stop me getting up and also listen out for the words of encouragement from my wife right at the very end.... inspiring!!! Edited February 26, 2009 by GarethR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 He,he, that is reallygood! (we need to talk about your splatter tecnique)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 What technique!!? I just shut my eyes and let rip!! I've figured out that bit of wall now. The approach is horrible... there are rocks to wiggle between which is a bit of a distraction and then there's a hump to get over which forces you to takeoff much sooner than I would like, oh and it's slippy as hell... none of this really shows in the vid!!! ... ok ok... I'm just cr*p!!! I really do think that the changes to my rear shocker will help with splatting. Do you have any tips for me to work on though? (apart from going on a diet!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Hey GarethR, Nice video.. ..I think we all should put out some sort of video (warts and all!) for felow TC riders to comment on...cue critique: Do you really need to splat that stone wall at the end? If you push your front wheel into it, would that not clear your bash-plate for you? and more importantly (if it were me) save some energy. I 'aint slagging you off..you look a better rider than me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 It's one of them awkward steps that wont let you ride it that way (I cant anyway). It really is bigger than it looks in the video. I remember feeling dissapointed when I saw the video as it made everything look smaller and flatter than it is. The bank at the start of the vid is much steeper than it looks too. I'm going to take a few stills to prove it! It's a great idea to upload vids as I'm sure the better riders on here would help with some pointers for us mere mortals! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 I fully understand that the pictures may not do justice, and it is difficult, I am no pro at it! Ideally, your launch point would be about the same distance as the height of it! Place yourself a good kicker rock as referance launch pad, this IS practice you know! You can do that! Seems you were trying to accelerate prior to the launches, getting going a bit too fast, limit to walking speed only! Only time you made it, you got deeper in the knees! This is important as you need to compress the suspension more! Use a little double dip of the springs if needed, first to set the timing, then the second to get really low and compress fully while revving yet holding back on the speed and clutch. Untill the moment you and the bike come up, with a full pop on the clutch, just after the front rebounds from the kicker! In other words ,get your compression and timing! That is all I can tell you, oh, second gear on that one! Third with more practice! You might just fly right over it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 I can spend hours on wheels and spokes alone. I was just wandering if you (or anyone) can recommend a wheel truing stand or other method for sorting out the rim alignment. Also any resources or tips you know of in this mystical art! Many thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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