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200 No Spark


whizzy
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I have just finished screwing together my 200. It's been going on for around 2 years! I've replaced various bits, powder coated the frame, new ring, small end etc but done nothing to the bottom half of the engine. The bike ran ok prior to the strip down. Now i have no spark. I've checked the plug cap and replaced it also the plug. The coil is not orginal and is rewired as it came off. I've removed paint to ensure a good earth. Not sure of the make but it has markings for a red, green and white spade turminal plus a black cable. I haven't removed the fly wheel as i don't have the right puller. Any ideas what or how to test next?

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I assume its a minarelli motor?

check black to red, should be about 400 ohms

black to green should be about 45 ohms.

Any where close will be ok to start it.

If the stator is very old, it may break down when hot, but will restart when cold. then it needs rewinding....fleebay

The insulation falls off the green more than the rest. Check this first

If the green wire to gropund is open then the trigger is broke....bill pyes yer man

Pullers are available from steve goode

Edited by Lee Harris
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The story contiues: although it would run fine it needed a gentle push to start. I decided to decrease the gap of the screw to the trigger. Of course i snapped the screw off :P I've locked the doors................for now.

Edited by Whizzy
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I've got the flywheel sorted out now but still no spark :rotfl:

The black to red reads 380 ohms

The black to green reads 43 ohms i assume this is ok.

Should there be continuity between red to green? I have 423 ohms.

Is there any connection with the lighting winding on stator?

Is there any way to test the coil? it looks new ish. It's black plastic with four male spade terminals.

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  • 5 weeks later...

The saga continues, new flywheel fitted- no better. Although the resistances seem ok i decide to get the stator rewound. It arrived in the post yesterday and was duly fitted last night. Second prod on the kickstarter away she went :D Thirty seconds later whilst idling away she pops and bangs and stops :D The key on the flywheel had sheared :D Ah well i guess progress is being made. Watch this space for the next problem.

Edited by Whizzy
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Yer the 200 flywheel needs to be tight,do you have a torque wrench.

Make sure you use a six sided socket,them flywheel nut's round easy.

yep did all that as per the manual 5kg/m. Guess the key was just worn through all the on and off of the flywheel lately, it didn't protrude much above the shaft. I'll know more when the new one arrives.

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Is that the thread on the shaft or the nut? :D

Either!

Seriously, the flywheel you said the flywheel had been replaced? The shaft taper and the flywheel taper need matching exactly. This was done in the plant and new / different flywheels or flywheels which have turned at high speed due to a woodruf key shearing are no longer matched to the shaft taper.

go and get some valve lapping past, or grease and a handful of sand (only kidding) and lap the flywheel, without the key onto the shaft. i.e line it up approx and rotate back and forth 15 degrees with lapping paste in between. You will see the shaft take on a dull grey colour. If this is only 1mm or so wide, the flyheel will only sit on the shaft that much. Lapp away until the band is nice and wide. Then clean the paste from shaft and flywheel and screw it up nicely with a new woodruf key.

Away you go.......

Edited by Lee Harris
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