lian Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) I astonished that rear wheel is rubbing silencer while loaded before or after jump!!.... How GG engineers could allow this bug? Besides, if a naked metal silencer is adapting to wheel's shape with time, cover plates from plastic or carbon just wear into holes from rubbing. I already rubbed a nice hole in cover so need to epoxy. But is there a solution how prevent future wearing? Thanks. Edited December 4, 2009 by Lian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perce Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 lay your bike on the floor, stand on the back wheel, put both hands on the silencer & pull, simples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anyoldiron Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 (edited) Betas do this too I think from what you describe.I use a piece of metal(a shim) cut from a drink can and fix this to the silencer,replacing when it gets worn out.Works good too Edited December 5, 2009 by anyoldiron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted December 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 Good idea with metal cut, Thanks. By the way, i think it would be better put 2-3 shims on bolt at fastening place of silencer rather pull it away with bull's force... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Good idea with metal cut, Thanks. By the way, i think it would be better put 2-3 shims on bolt at fastening place of silencer rather pull it away with bull's force... Lian, Some riders put extra washers, a stack, say, about 8-10mm thick, between the upper mid-muffler mount and the top shock mount. Use some red Loctite on the nut on the upper shock bolt as the threads may then be a little short to engage the Nylon part of the locknut. When pulling the final muffler out again, it's a good idea to slightly loosen all the exhaust system fasteners (including the ones at the cylinder) before doing so. Tighten everything up after moving the muffler out. This will relieve any stress points that later develop cracks due to the exhaust system vibration. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Great explanation, thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Use some red Loctite on the nut on the upper shock bolt as the threads may then be a little short to engage the Nylon part of the locknut. Silencer is fastening to top shock bolt, to rear brake cylinder and in one place almost above carb to right frame tube. If i will add 10mm of washers to top shock mount, then that 2 places (under frame tube and at rear brake cylinder) will not fit with silencer's fastening places, am i right? Or not?.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Silencer is fastening to top shock bolt, to rear brake cylinder and in one place almost above carb to right frame tube. If i will add 10mm of washers to top shock mount, then that 2 places (under frame tube and at rear brake cylinder) will not fit with silencer's fastening places, am i right? Or not?.... You will want to have the capscrew at the top of the mid-muffler and the top bolt on the rear M/C loose and the top shock bolt in but no nut on, then pull the muffler out slightly and measure the gap that the top mount (upper shock bolt) pulls out and that will be the thickness you can add. It's a little different for each bike and you'll want to have the final muffler bolts loose if it's not one of the new, one-piece final/mid muffler systems. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1979 Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 I've recently had my exhaust repacked and a patch welded on where the tyre rubbed through, so i shimmed out my exhaust with a few washers and a longer bolt, but i also reduced the size of the spacer between the mid section and the rear brake master cylinder, i think this also helps, the original is plastic, i don't know if this is to reduce heat transfer into the master cylinder or not but i used the plastic nut you get with number plate screws and filed it down a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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