December 17, 200916 yr Author I've just been looking at the '96 parts list and the 97, it seems in '96 the connecting rod had a spherical bush and oil seal whereas in '97 it changed to a needle bearing and spacer. I would imagine the needle bearing is better, suppose I need to talk to Lampkin's then as I wouldn't have the spacer anyway.
January 24, 201016 yr Author I updated this thread just before the database issues so thought i'd redo the update! I've been working on my bike when I can freshening it up, I've stripped most the of the swing arm assembly down to renew the bearings and this was one of the bearings I found..! As you can see it was totally worn out! I ordered new bearings from Lampkins and I've started pressing the old ones out and the new ones in. I also 'updated' the front end a bit too, a new Vee Rubber tyre was fitted the guys at Behind Bars in Kenilworth (great guys, I would definately recommend them!) and some parts painted black. So once the swing arm parts are done next on the list is the clutch fix!
January 29, 201016 yr Author Well all new bearings pressed in, this part caused us the most trouble to get the old bearings out as 1 was really seized in. It's all back together now with the back wheel painted too, I dropped in a new spark plug and rad coolant and took it for a quick spin on my road, its so much faster now! The old plug was pretty crappy so the new one must of done it the world of good!!! I think i'll be getting a slow throttle too as I'm a total beginner! I also wired in a new Apico kill switch as there was just a 'single wire' switch on it before and it was a bit slow shutting off the motor. Can't wait to properly ride it now!
January 29, 201016 yr All credit to you for doing a superb job, that Techno looks better than some 2008 bikes I've seen. I love the black wheel rims.
January 30, 201016 yr Looks ace mate,well done. I,ve just gone through a 97 techno for my son as a christmas pressie. W'eve been involved in motox for seventeen years and this was just a winter trainer. We had the dragiing clutch i bought a new one polished up the edges and filed the glue away , now absolutely fantastic.
January 30, 201016 yr Author Thanks! I should be doing my clutch next week if I can finish work early enough. I bought a slow domino throttle yesterday so it will interesting to see how that feels too!
January 31, 201016 yr Author There painted with Simoniz Tough Black, we'll see how they hold up under proper use but so far it works great!
February 9, 201016 yr Author OK so I've been working on my bike a bit more and I have a couple more questions The clutch..! I've removed the oil, and the clutch discs and steel plates and carried out the mod Dan suggests (I blasted the steel plates and the clutch discs then after using the dremel on the tabs i finished them off with some 1500 wet and dry). After I put it all back together minus the oil, it worked a treat when dry, no drag in any gear at all. So I filled it back up with oil and started her up and it dragged again in 1st Rocking it back and forth didn't seem to help but after a really short space of time riding it freed up. But if I switch her off and then try again it drags again. Could it be that my plates are worn too thin? I can't find the tolerances to compare them against. When it's switched off and on the stand if I put it in a higher gear the clutch works but as soon as I try first again its locked solid Secondly how warm does the bike have to get before the fan kicks in? Does it come in when idling? The fan works as I've touched the wires together and all's well, I have fitted a new thermoswitch too but it still doesn't come on. It's been pretty cold today but should I still expect it to come on? Thirdly the radiator coolant, whats the best way of filling it back up? I've replaced the coolant with the silkolene pro cool and filled it up, started her up with the rad cap off and the fluid doesn't go anywhere, but when I switch it off and leave it, it slowly drains down from the reservoir and I then repeat this process. Is this normal? You'll have to forgive me on this as I'm more used to air-cooled engines Thanks in advance Steve
February 13, 201016 yr You might need to scuff the plates up with p80 The problem you are having its the plates sticking to the metal plates 1500 would polish them to much give all the plates metal and fiber a good scuff My fan was on almost all the time on my techno and my rev 3 i just filled myn up and put cap on run it till fan came on then left it over night then checked coolant level it bairly moved
February 13, 201016 yr Author The metal plates and fibre were shot blasted so they are scuffed up nicely, it was only the side tabs that I polished. I took the bike out for a quick ride on Wednesday and it's just 1st gear that sticks, even when warm it still sticks slightly. Well enough so that if I stop I then can't engage neutral or even 2nd gear! When I'm moving it shifts fine. Steve
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