I discovered recently that my headtstock is clicking and has slight movement. I have tightened it up and it's stopped clicking but is this all it will need or will i need to re-grease them too? Is re-greasing easy? are they easy to inspect, how would i go about doing this?? cheers.

Heya, I have to adjust mine every so often to remove the clicking. In fact last week the actual shaft snapped clean off at the bottom of the thread where the top bearing is. Luckily I noticed it before any more damage could happen, although it just sounded like it needed to be adjusted again. You need to remove the top triple clamp to adjust properly anyways, so while it is off I just inspect the top bearing and if need be I will regrease both with waterproof grease.

Edited August 12, 201016 yr by Spark

Hi Gaz

Sound like thay need to be replaced if thay are clicking i dont mind giving you a hand if you need it

From his description he had play in the bearings caused by either the locking nut backing out a little or the threads stretching a bit on the shaft and / or nut. I have found this to be normal as I have had to adjust mine periodically on my bike and my mates bike from new. Having a 20 diam ally shaft it can be expected. But it is related to how aggressive you ride. If there was no slight movement, and when you turned the bars there was clicking then it would be time for new bearings.

Cheers for the input guys.

When i turned the bars they didn't really click it was only when i rocked the front end really that they clicked. Now they are tight again they aren't clicking.

I need to check them before the manx anyway so i shall give them a good once over and some new grease.

When i turned the bars they didn't really click it was only when i rocked

the front end really that they clicked. Now they are tight again they aren't clicking.

Just to add a couple of points to the discussion for the less experienced:

A good way to check the headstock bearings is to put the bike up on the skidplate and grab the lower part of the upper frame tubes (just above the seals) and push/pull forward

and backward. Any play will be easily felt. Some riders will lock the front brake and rock the bike forward/backward and mistake the clicking sound of the brake pads moving in the caliper

and/or, in the case of a "floating" brake disc, the disc moving in the mounting washers as loose bearings.

It's a good idea to replace the sealing o-rings in the headstock now and then, especially if the upper bearing has been loose, which will cause abnormal wear on the upper o-ring andf allow moisture and dirt coming over the headlight/numberplate to get into the bearing area.

When setting the tension (adjusting the steering stem threaded collar on top of the upper bearing and then tightening down the nut on top of the upper fork clamp, also sometimes called a "triple tree" or "triple clamp") expect to spend a little time getting it right. You'll want a just barely felt drag when rotating the bars but no looseness when checking the bearings by moving the upper fork tubes.

Jon

Get a beta in ya! That's the problem

quiet duggan!