Fork Settings For A 2003 Gas Gas Txt Pro

[wookie_73]

Hi

I have just bought my first trials bike, and have just finished doing all the little jobs to get it up to spec.

One of these was to replace the front fork seals. However after looking around on the internet I cannot seem to find a basic (stock) setting for the fork clickers. I was wondering if anyone knew what these should be set to so I have a good starting point to fiddle with.

Also as I weigh 100Kg does anyone know what the weight range is for the standard fork springs? I topped the forks up with 300ml of 7w fork oil in each leg, I found this figure on a YouTube video and would like to confirm it is the correct amount.

I normally ride Enduros and know that getting the suspension right can make a massive difference, I am presuming that this also applies to trials and getting everything set up right will help lots.

Cheers all Dave

[sting32]

Hi

I have just bought my first trials bike, and have just finished doing all the little jobs to get it up to spec.

One of these was to replace the front fork seals. However after looking around on the internet I cannot seem to find a basic (stock) setting for the fork clickers. I was wondering if anyone knew what these should be set to so I have a good starting point to fiddle with.

Also as I weigh 100Kg does anyone know what the weight range is for the standard fork springs? I topped the forks up with 300ml of 7w fork oil in each leg, I found this figure on a YouTube video and would like to confirm it is the correct amount.

I normally ride Enduros and know that getting the suspension right can make a massive difference, I am presuming that this also applies to trials and getting everything set up right will help lots.

Cheers all Dave

Dave,

as I dont do metrics, it sounds like you weigh about 220 lbs. I'm a bit more but this is what I feel like I know/understand about this.

Those adjusters do very minor changes from what I have read and been told and tried. the big adjustment for how the compression (one side) and rebound (the other side) is what weight oil you put in there, then the adjusters do like 30% comparative maximum changes, that say 1weight of change in the oil does (this isnt the exact numbers but you get the idea). OIL = Big change, screw = Micro changes.

newer bikes I believe have compression and rebound marked on wichever cap is which, older bikes might need you to experiment or dissasemble a little bit, to determin which is which. Compression resists pushing together rebound resists pulling back apart.

Seems to me, better riders than me suggest that usually you screw the compression screw in all the way, this obstructs the hole that the fork oil is pumped through as the forks are being compressed. In that side of the forks I run heavier fluids in, because I'm a bit heavier than you, and I ride in upper classes (bigger rocks to ride off of) and I want the forks to resist more against bottoming out when I come off something.

So obviously rebound is the opposite, I want the forks to get back to full lenght quicker, so I run thinner oil and unscrew the adjuster fully. this means the oil which is thinner gets pumped through a hole with less restriction added to with adjuster and so it rebounds easier and quicker. Factory adjustment varys, last bike I uncrated had the adjusters completely unscrewed (least restriction added to the fork) for both compression and rebound, and I can tell you that I cant tell much difference when I screwed the compression all the way in either, which I do because of habit. Ill probably change oil in the compression on this bike to thicker like was done on the last bike I had and seems to suit me.

YOUR adjustments can vary for weight and riding style and FORK manufacturer! , you dont want the wheel reboundind too easily and you dont want the compression to hard, so it can be trial and error on oils and setting.

Lastly If novice (beginner) these adjustments really dont mean jack.

Edited September 10, 2010 by Sting32

[mrandy800]

Hi there wookie another good thing to look at if you go on YouTube and search gas gas fork seal you should find and video that shows you how to do it. It should be posted by gasgasinfo there is a heap more videos about your bike from engine rebuilds and clutch changes been really helpfull for me just thought I would tell you about it is a great help good luck with ya fork mate and you choose a good bike I wouldn't change my 280 pro for anything.

[jse]

Hi

I have just bought my first trials bike, and have just finished doing all the little jobs to get it up to spec.

One of these was to replace the front fork seals. However after looking around on the internet I cannot seem to find a basic (stock) setting for the fork clickers. I was wondering if anyone knew what these should be set to so I have a good starting point to fiddle with.

Also as I weigh 100Kg does anyone know what the weight range is for the standard fork springs? I topped the forks up with 300ml of 7w fork oil in each leg, I found this figure on a YouTube video and would like to confirm it is the correct amount.

I normally ride Enduros and know that getting the suspension right can make a massive difference, I am presuming that this also applies to trials and getting everything set up right will help lots.

Cheers all Dave

Hi Dave!

I weigh just a little less than you so my GG forks are set up in your weight range. I run the compression (black knob on left) fully out and the rebound (red knob on right) fully in. I've added 7mm to each preload spacer (I think 1" schedule-40 PVC is the same size as the stock grey one's installed) and use 315cc's of oil (5-weight in my case) in each leg to raise the oil level slightly to avoid bottoming. The adjustments are high-speed, pop-off, fine tuning adjusters so you will not notice any change just pushing on the forks.

When you re-install the forks have all the fasteners loose except for the upper tripleclamp (the tripleclamp capscrews go to 18 ft lbs-about 25 Nm). You'll want to push up/down on the forks to center them and then tighten the lower tripleclamp capscrews (with the double set of capscrews tighten them alternately in 5 lb increments up to 18 ft lbs). Center the forks again and tighten the axle. Center again and tighten the axle clamp screws. The fork brace is always installed last. This proceedure will avoid fork binding.

Jon

[spark]

Dave I am just off your weight at 95kg without kit. The std. springs are not up to the job of supporting our weight and have used up a great deal of travel just standing on the bike. The springs are designed for lightweights of 70kg or so. As such I replaced my springs in the forks and shock on my Gas Gas with 10% stronger springs I got from Lewisport. It made a huge difference. I would suggest doing both forks and shock to keep things balanced. Compression on forks is all the way out, rebound I think around 4 in from all the way out as rebound speed increased with stronger springs. Back shock rebound also screwed in a turn I think from all the way out. I also use my Gas Gas for the odd hard enduro.

[wookie_73]

Thanks for your answers. I have noticed after getting the chance to do a loop of an enduro track where I did a race this Sunday that the front has not got much travel left, the rear seemed fine however. So I think I will get some stiffer front springs.

Hopefully I will do my first Tial this Saturday, should be interesting.

[spark]

You do feel it more on the front because the shock from bumps travels straight up your arms. I did test my bike with just the fork springs but you don't realise how much the bike is sagging in the rear until you put a stiffer shock spring in as well. Also gives more ground clearance and we know that is a plus with the foot pegs being so low. It will be better with stiffer fork springs in but even better still with both front and back done.