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  1. the 2 clubs in Texas, I am half sure are: CTTA (central texas trials Assoc?) and NTTA (north or Northern Texas Trials Assoc) I ride with a friend couple times a year from way down there by you I think (Im in KS). Sorry I don't have links for them Facebook can help I know NTTA is on facebook, and they might be able to help you find CTTA. THe USA club database is located here, they have 3 links for texas clubs. http://www.trialsclubs.us/ Texted friend just now, he said this website (which was listed) http://www.austintrials.com
  2. it is NORMAL. years back there was a diagram showing why there is a bunch of resistance in the 4-5 shift, it is because rotation of shaft speed and the fact that it isn't at much about gears meshing, but "Dogs" on the side of the 2 gears having to engage. As you have noticed the 1st 4 gears are just slighty different each shift, but the 4 to 5 is a big step, then 5 to 6 is less of a step, so there is less perceived meshing "noises" on the other shifts.
  3. Because we've all had that model of those bikes. Look up gasgas pro on the interweb searcher. "Pro" was a distinguishing term, they started production in 02, by 04 the version you have were phased out. you have the old version basically in production since early 90's (with slight changes. the Pro model engine was completely new design and specs. The engines and such (clutch gears and everything) are hugely different.
  4. I have had a Spark Plug do this to me on other bikes. so dont skip that part try other plug. I also read many places of FAKE brand name plugs everywhere... Buy from trusted place.
  5. Well as long as you are NOT talking about the 18 Gold models (because they shipped with completely different heads on them with Higher compression than the other models), then I can tell you that red anodized insert is HIGHER compression silver is MEDIUM (STOCK) and GOLD is LOWER compression. You can get them from TRS dealer, they are not that expensive.
  6. The vertigo has essentially the same "design" at least at the flywheel, and someone makes a light and heavy flywheel weight for those bikes. Maybe soon they will make them for the TRS or something.
  7. sting32

    2018 TRS RR.

    thanks for the input Heffergm, I still think I will wait for the 18
  8. sting32

    2018 TRS RR.

    I am hoping you are right about the idea about it being marketing.
  9. sting32

    2018 TRS RR.

    So, obviously I have a question after finding this PDF that I had read last week, but I just today posted. and, I have always loved my gasser... But, wow I am confused, that: Nobody is or has been having issues with any of these parts, which is being updated for 2018... Nobody has heard of ANY issues or reported about? hmm. Good I guess, but wow some those on the 1st page, looks like some major fixes, to me? I am just skeptical, but planning to buy TRS soon, was wondering wow, wait until the raga 18's make it to our ports? Good for TRS to find ways to improve on the bike and all that. But it is being done, without litany of posts here in TC, of people asking about if anyone else broke a kicker, bad bearings, or anything that happened to GG???? I'm just asking. I dunno how many even made it to the USA, and my 2 friends haven't had any trouble with the 17's that is even after asking one directly, but the 2 I know of (both owned by the one same friend) one had maybe 70 hours on it until he sold it to get the raga version, the raga only has about 10 hours on it as of today. Rider cannot ride it right now.
  10. sting32

    2018 TRS RR.

    This was posted at least a week ago, 3 pages with photos and some text, from the USA site. http://www.trsmotosusa.com/images/Raga_Racing_2018/2018 TRS RAGA RACING.pdf Note that in case the PDF leaves the inter-webs, I copy/paste most of the English PDF. List of changes in the 2018: (page1) ENGINE New kick-starter system with increased performance and reliability. New kick-start pedal fulcrum, hard anodized. New clutch cover adapted to the new kick-starter system. New gear shift system, increased precision, smoother and more reliable. New secondary shaft with revised bearings for increased strength and reliability. New crankshaft and revised crankshaft bearings. New machining of the clutch actuator levers, better precisión in use. New internal engine tolerances for quieter and livelier operation. Page 2 SUSPENSION New Tech Gold fork, with new settings and increased sensititvity. New Reiger rear shock absorber set-up, softer, faster and increased sensititvity. IMPROVEMENTS New brake disc and sprocket protectors with improved flexibility. New design micro-fusion investment-cast rear brake and shift pedals. New cylinder head and combustión chamber, improves performance and reliability. New KEIHIN carburetor spring for improved smoothness during operation. \New fuel tank. Larger capacity and improved finish. New fuel tank cap. Larger diameter, easier to operate, improved sealing. New graphic design and stickers. New NEKEN handlebars. New and improved CDI connection.
  11. sting32

    2018 TRS RR.

    New announcments about the TRS and the r-spec ones, so I would like to know, did OP wait? Sounds from the specs, that there must been troubles with the kickstart and or something? anyone know/heard what is up with that?
  12. I suggest that the carb is overall lean, the easyest way to start the gasgas pro, is to put the bike in to 2nd gear (turn fuel on choke on of course, everything you do when ready to kick the bike over). With the bike in gear, rear wheel in a tractionable position, rock the bike back and forth, so that you hear the engine move, this is pushing the piston from just below compression to compression, but loads the crankcase and cylinder a little bit with fuel mixture from carb. I do this no less than 5 times. I mean forward and back is one time, do it 5 times if in the 70's aka short sleeve weather, more if colder. when you finish rocking the bike back and forth make sure you stop after making the bike go backwards, take the bike out of gear, prepare to kick it a new way, my way. What has to happen now is that you position your body ready to kick the bike over. You do NOT ratchet the kick lever looking for that high compression spot! you get the foot over the lever, and just now kick with your leg muscles, not by jumping up in the air, and using your body weight mostly, on the lever. I broke at least one of the gears Lineaway mentioned above, on every year model of the 300 from 04 to the 2008, at least once. I have not broken this gear in the last several years due to new technique. My bike will start on the 1st kick every time, doing it this way. it has helped 'timid' women who where standng the bikes on kickstands, bending and breaking those, to much easily start even 250's and 125's gas gas pros... FWIW, IMHO The 300's have mostly too much compression to do the "find the compression" and then kick with your body weight type of kick! the engine if you listen will only turn through compression about 1.5 maybe 2 times... if you do it my way, you kick with your muscles, doing it hard from the second your boot even touched the lever, some sort of refer to it as SLAP KICK, which this really is NOT, but this technique is getting a mechanical, speed, and muscle advantage "aka a RUN at" at the 1st compression of the cycle... This means you line the crotch of your pants to be almost covering the fuel cap, lean the bike closer to your left leg a little more maybe, don't try to hold the bike perfectly straight up if you are less than 6ft tall, and push your leg through the kick with your thigh and calf muscles. if you do this, which I have shown lots of people how to do by taking my wrist strapped kill switch off (no spark) and on my 300, my bike will turn over at least 4 revolutions through the compression, even without spark, the best I can ever do is 2 crappy slow rotations when doing this, 'the up against compression jump down on the lever' (big harley or 500cc or bigger 4 stroke type kick)... IMHO if there was a compression release for that kind of kick, ya'll would have a better chance of starting these bikes, especially the bigger bore ones, which BTW many of the bigger cc "dirt or enduro" bikes do have on the kicker system (which adds weight). I really need to make a video of how to do this, which takes time and another person to capture the vids, but I am sting32 on Youtube, maybe I can make the video this weekend and post it there...
  13. Autotrak2 oils have pretty much been stated cause swelling of clutch materials. this was back in 08 or sometime in history, just sayin, everyone else has moved away from it.
  14. I have had the normal oiled boots for many years, blue, I cannot recall what technically they were called, I wear a size 45 my foot is a 10.5 (usa) and they have alway felt great. they fit my wider style foot really well. I bought a newer pair maybe 4 years ago, that was the greyish or carbon fiber looking, and came with the bootie for the inside to keep foot dry, Maybe some of you had that era of boots? that was closer to last new type before coming back to life this time around? If you saw or had them, you will recall that the shin plastic was kind of shaped like lump sticking out to angular instead of just a flat type shield of the older design. here's the pic, of version like the ones I had, not the color but era/design. I got the same size and all, 45, and found that the foot area was pretty narrow at the arch, and hurt my wider feet, so I had to sell them off and luckily found some barely used normal oiled ones on fleebay. Well all those are worn out, looking at the hew boots by hebo, since I have worn hebo and liked the quality until that one pair. SO, Have you guys worn these and what was fit like compared to the older style good oiled boots?? Or versus say the latest Forma boots? I can wear the Gaerne, but hate them soft gum soles. I am hoping that Hebo went back to the older style foot/sole patterns, and need to know, am I wishing against the possible here? tell me what you think.
  15. I bet, that when you will take the front wheel off, and the pads could then fall out of the caliper, I imagine... I haven't tried it yet, that would be my only worry, and you will just have to put the pads back in and hold them, as those pads dont have the screw that holds the pads in place like rear brakes and older brakes, as far as I know. But, that is all the spring is for, I think, keeping the pads in when the disc is not present. Time will probably tell if they can fall out when pads get too thin?
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