Whats the best air pressure to run in the forks of a beamish 250?

none, use the schrader valves to let pressure out as it builds up, if you need more spring pressure add preload spacers, if you are bottoming out add 10 to 20 cc extra of fork oil

none, use the schrader valves to let pressure out as it builds up, if you need more spring pressure add preload spacers, if you are bottoming out add 10 to 20 cc extra of fork oil

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Does anyone know how long the standard spacers should be on the forks?

Also are higher rated springs available, as the forks seem very soft

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none, use the schrader valves to let pressure out as it builds up, if you need more spring pressure add preload spacers, if you are bottoming out add 10 to 20 cc extra of fork oil

Sorry but you are quite wrong. The forks are air assisted and have the valve to allow you to put in 15psi and no more, it will made a huge difference to the damping. You should used 195cc of 10/15 or 20W frok oil accoring to your weight and riding preference.

The top spacer/tube in the forks were about 4" long with a 'top hat' top and bottom. I will have a pair apart in a week or so and measure them accurately. No-one does springs specifically for the Beamish you just have to hunt about! Try www.bultaco.co.uk and see how long their springs are or try Craig Mawlam as he as started doing 'Magical' springs.

Sorry but you are quite wrong. The forks are air assisted and have the valve to allow you to put in 15psi and no more, it will made a huge difference to the damping. You should used 195cc of 10/15 or 20W frok oil accoring to your weight and riding preference.

The top spacer/tube in the forks were about 4" long with a 'top hat' top and bottom. I will have a pair apart in a week or so and measure them accurately. No-one does springs specifically for the Beamish you just have to hunt about! Try www.bultaco.co.uk and see how long their springs are or try Craig Mawlam as he as started doing 'Magical' springs.

Cheers jim

I think the beamish I have purchased is quite an early silver engine one

It does have valves on the forks, but they are not at 45 Degrees like on the beamish I used to own (these are straight up) does this make any difference?

Or was all the beamish air assisted?

Hi Jon,

Only the last of the silver engine models (late 77 and 78) had air assisted forks. The Caps should be at 45 degrees as you say. It is possible someon has thought to convert an earlier pair of forks but the internals are different. If you have early forks, it is 236cc of ATF or 10/30W motor oil in each leg. If you remove the fork spring and look down to the top of the fork valve, if it has 4 holes in it, they shoulc be air assisted, if not they should just be oil.

Sorry but you are quite wrong. The forks are air assisted and have the valve to allow you to put in 15psi and no more, it will made a huge difference to the damping. You should used 195cc of 10/15 or 20W frok oil accoring to your weight and riding preference.

The top spacer/tube in the forks were about 4" long with a 'top hat' top and bottom. I will have a pair apart in a week or so and measure them accurately. No-one does springs specifically for the Beamish you just have to hunt about! Try www.bultaco.co.uk and see how long their springs are or try Craig Mawlam as he as started doing 'Magical' springs.

well I wouldn't do it like that, air in forks is not the way to go in my oppinion, tune the forks with oil, springs, and preload, there is a reason why forks dont have shrader valves anymore, it works, yes, is there a better way? yes.

well I wouldn't do it like that, air in forks is not the way to go in my oppinion, tune the forks with oil, springs, and preload, there is a reason why forks dont have shrader valves anymore, it works, yes, is there a better way? yes.

Fashions come and go, like USD forks! You have to trust that the manufacturerer knew what they were doing at the time.