hi guys, i've been lumbered into doing my mates wheel bearings on his 98' techno, anyone done any and any tips , hints would be most gratefully recieved...............and yes i have got a large hammer kinell cheers mick.

If they're owt like my '97 ones they'll just fall out if you remove the wheel and give it a good shake ! Mine are that slack!

DO a search on Beta...I think we've done this before.

Back wheel on the Rev3 is a bit tricky becuase the sleeve inside the hub sits tight up against both bearings, so its VERY difficult to get a punch onto the inside of the bearing to knock it out.

One good tip someone mentioned last time, is for the NEXT time you do it, cut a little groove in the sleeve, so that in future it is easier to get the punch behind the bearing.

As you probably know on alot of road bikes the said sleeve is not in there very tight, so you can generally get a bit of play in it, enabling you to get behind the bearing. Unfortunately its not like that on Betas..OR Ducati road bikes apparently!

Good luck!.........(front wheel is easy!!)

hi stu, yeah i did a search on it before ,i've done a coupla bearings before but never on a beta, and fore warned is fore armed as they say.Thanks for the info. mick.

I just took it down to my local bike shop, they took out the old ones and fitted new'uns 30 minutes and a tenner later...

Lloyd

A tenner for 30 mins. is pretty bloody good eh!

Try it yourself next time though Craftypiggy...it aint that hard...and IF you havie a problem due to what I said in the earlier post, you can resort to just destroying one of the bearings in the back wheel, to get it out...and then obviously the sleeve will come out, enabling you to get behind the other bearing.

STU

I`ve done it on my 98 Techno.

I used a solid bar with a clean 90degree edge on it to gently persuade the bearings out ...took a bit of time doing it to save causing any damage ,as it was my first time

Just kept hitting round the edge of the bearing rather than one or two places.Its really not difficult at all ,just depends on your mates maintainance as to whether they are corroded in solidly or not.

regards

N

Hi guys. I come into this chat a little late but someone may find my experience helpful. Mine is a 97 Techno.

If you try to punch the bearing out you are actually hitting the aluminum spacer and will damage the end of it where it slides into the spacer tube. Also the disk brake side has a large circlip holding the bearing in. It needs to be removed before the bearing can come out.

I ended up taking mine to a bike shop as well but they used a Slide Impact Hammer (Avaliable from your local bearing supplier. Not cheap) to pull out the aluminum spacer. That allows the bearing protection cover to come off allowing access to the circlip. After removing the circlip the bearing can be extracted with the same tool. The second bearing is then a simple punch out from the other side.

In future I will simply take mine back to a bike shop. They do the job quickly and quite cheaply.

ok look guys this is not that hard!

get a heat gun and a pyrometer.

heat to approximately 200 to 250deg (the hub not the bearing)

get an expandable bearing puller with a slide hammer,

trust me you can get a bite on the bearing and it will just about

fall out in your hand.

when you re insert the new bearing make sure the hub is good and hot

it should just about (if not ) fall in place

I'm lucky, I have a little MIG welder in the garage. I've just got an old piece of steel bar which I poke through and tack weld the end onto the bearing. (Being careful not to be near any fuel, oil, rags etc!)

It is then a simple case of tapping the other end of the bar with a hammer until the bearing pushes out.

This also works for bearings where the outer race is stuck inside the hub. Simply tack weld the end of the bar to the stuck race and tap out.

This process does ofcourse require a welder, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.

As said before, the key here is a heat gun on the wheel hub, can do them in about 15mins now. make sure you locate the mid spacer right though when knocking the new ones in.