legaleagle Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 After my Monty spat out a wheelbearing on Saturday - I was offered a loan of a mates 2010 sherco to compete in an event yesterday. The owner of the sherco looks after his bike to the point I was scared to damage it. It gets a service every month wether it needs it or not and is never hashed. Bike rode well and I had a good day. Now the bad bit - the gearbox was one of the worse I've tried in ages. Impossible to find neutral at a stop - very clonky and I've ended the day with a gear lever imprint in my boots - honest it's that heavy/hard to change. Once towards end of trial - I wasn't able to select 3rd - thing stuck in 2nd. I mentioned this on handing bike back - mate said it's always been like that since new! Question being is this normal or is a strip down required? Asking - the bike has always ran on putolene light gear oil. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul w Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 check by putting the bike on a stand, get someone to spin the back wheel while you go through the gears using your hand on the lever (without the clutch). If still impossible like this, its a mechanical fault with the shifting. If the gears go in ok like this, it is more likley to be the clutch draging (only slightly). remove and wash all the plates in very hot very soapy water. replace but try using Castrol ATF (halfords) Done this with my EVO including lightly filing all the tangs on the fiber plates 100% better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ishy Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 One thing that does bugger shifting on any bike, had to have a word with my lad about this, click em in gear not stomp em. Hammering a trials bike into gear with a big boot tends to spread the tangs on the selector making it harder to find a gear and also leads to it slipping out of gear. Not saying this is the problem with above machine, but having ridden many found the gear shifting to be good on the Sherco as a rule, Honda motors probably do have the best shifting of any trials bike in my opinion, but finding neutral on the 4RT while running is harder than the Sherco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ormplus Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 it will be nothing to do with the g/box.its most likly to be the clutch dragging.either the clutch req adjusting or strip and clean and check the clutch.putoline light g/oil is o/k we use it all the time with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legaleagle Posted December 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 I had another shot on the Sherco today. Reckon it can be made to shift so much better than it is. The selector shaft is moving free enough and when on the stand without the engine running it's goes up and down through the box ok. Think I'll strip and clutch and do the beta clutch mod for starters. The owner of the bike won't be back for another week so it gives me some time to try and improve things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I had another shot on the Sherco today. Reckon it can be made to shift so much better than it is. The selector shaft is moving free enough and when on the stand without the engine running it's goes up and down through the box ok. Think I'll strip and clutch and do the beta clutch mod for starters. The owner of the bike won't be back for another week so it gives me some time to try and improve things. Just asa whotsit, I will tell you that I normally make gear selections on any bike while rolling a bit and feeling for a positive click up or down, as it just allows the mechanism to work better, specially on a 1-2 shift, as one does not want to find less than a full engagement halfway through a section. But that is usually a non issue, as with rare exception, most sections you can pre select the desired gear and never change it. They all require some rotation of the gear elements to fully lock into position at times as things do not always line up while stationary. A dragging clutch just applies pressure when not wanted or needed,and makes things difficult to move, with cold weather and thick oil being a culprit here as well. Get some heat into the motor and gearbox, takes a while of running sometimes, as there is little other than clutch slippage that heats the gear oil up to a normal temp one might find in summer months! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 (edited) I find that the biggest problem with hydraulic clutches is right at the adjuster on the lever. Many folks screw the adjuster in to get more disengagement. This may work with a cable clutch (but still beats the throwout parts), but not hydraulic. They must be adjusted so there is a tiny bit of slop between the adjuster and the piston. Edited December 11, 2011 by charliechitlins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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