lewisallen Posted January 20, 2012 Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 iv just had a new clutch fitted on my 2002 280 txt and now the clutch rattles quiet a bit but only when the clutch is pulled in, when u release the clutch it goes away. and also if u rev the rattle goes away... any ideas?? iv search the forum quickly but only found problems with rattles when clutch is release.. it doesnt effect the riding of the bike but before i had the clutch changed it didnt ratttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 iv just had a new clutch fitted on my 2002 280 txt and now the clutch rattles quiet a bit but only when the clutch is pulled in, when u release the clutch it goes away. and also if u rev the rattle goes away... any ideas?? iv search the forum quickly but only found problems with rattles when clutch is release.. it doesnt effect the riding of the bike but before i had the clutch changed it didnt ratttle That is unusual. Possibly, if the bike was on it's side when the cover was installed, one of the fingers is caught on the wrong side of the top hat flange. I'd also check the caged needle hub bearings, there are two sets seperated by a wire circlip. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 It looks like your bike is not a 'PRO' Gasser so it has a conventional multiple coil spring clutch and not the diaphragm spring that was fitted to the PRO's. Did you have new plates fitted or a basket? or both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02-apr Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 I'd say your plates are just separating better than they did before (different oil?). If the rattle goes away when the plates come together then no problem. I daresay there's a few on here who would love to get a rattle when they pulled in the clutch lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisallen Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 cheers for the replys, in order to check the clutch do i need to drain the oil out of the bike?? or can i just take the clutch cover off?? also why would it only do it when the clutch is pulled in? i thought this happened wen the clutched was released going by my searches on the forum. is it something i should get looked at or put up with it? and as for the replacement it was just the plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 What clutch parts have you paid for? I'm only guessing that you've got new clutch plates in an old (worn grooves)clutch basket? so their contact surfaces are not mated together as well as the previous plate/basket combo was..hence the 'chatter/rattle'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisallen Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 What clutch parts have you paid for? I'm only guessing that you've got new clutch plates in an old (worn grooves)clutch basket? so their contact surfaces are not mated together as well as the previous plate/basket combo was..hence the 'chatter/rattle'? i didnt pay for anything as it was under warrenty, and all they said they did was replace plates and oil. probs give the guys a ring on monday see if they can shed any light on it as iv still got 2months warrenty on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 That is unusual. Possibly, if the bike was on it's side when the cover was installed, one of the fingers is caught on the wrong side of the top hat flange. I'd also check the caged needle hub bearings, there are two sets seperated by a wire circlip. Jon As an aside to the discussion, a friend asked me about "normal" clutch rattle yesterday and here is part of my reply: "My guess is that the rattle is mainly due to the straight cut gears on the hub and primary gear (and the low mass of the new type engines is less of a harmonics absorber). There is a little amount of lash that is normal and pulling in the clutch lever causes drag on the hub which keeps the gear teeth in contact. Crankshafts do not rotate at a constant, smooth rate near idle and there is a little speeding up and slowing down due to the ignition and compression cycles and this causes the primary gear teeth to move back and forth against the clutch hub gear teeth (rattle). Straight cut gears are usually used in high performance applications as they transmit power much more effeciently than spiral cut gears. Spiral cut gears are much more quiet as there is more than one tooth in contact with the other (the main tooth and a little bit of both the forward and backward teeth). The spiral cut gears, however, exert a lot of side force (one gear shaft is being pushed forward and the other shaft is being pushed backwards) which puts a strain on the shaft bearings and uses up torque forces." Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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