junior_vet Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 I just got a 2005 Sherco 2.9 Trials bike. I did my first mechanical work on the bike. Wow, what is the trick to getting the airbox back on ?? I had to loosen the muffler and before the airbox would go back on. There must be a trick to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeid Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 You need to talk to it soothingly...make it want to go back together. I've found in the tight fit situations to look for ways to give the effort a mechanical advantage...look at the angles or ways to get things closer together. On your 2.9, I believe it gets a little easier to put on if you loosen the airboot so that it'll slip over the intake body. Now, the angle is not the best and there's next to no room to the right of the carb, so if you loosen the carb up front, you can push down on the carb to allow the airboot a better shot at getting over the intake. Make sure that you aren't trying to push against the rear brake reservoir, vent tubes, or the gas line to the right of the carb. That's as much as I can remember now or the version of reality as I remember it. Hope that helps. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 I always take the carb off and its easier to do the both together. It doesn't take a few minutes to check the carb anyway, with normal dry use there is no need to take it off. As its new check the jet sizes, and clean the carb filter and check float height. Make sure the airbox top is not too small for the filter had a couple of these recently. A nice mod in this area is to swap the carb top bolts for 4mm allen bolts and then the whole operation of mudgaurd carb and airbox off uses just the one allen key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iclosemyeyes Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 I found the best way to do this was. 1 : On the side of the air box glue that foam rubber strip in place. or fit the air filter box then push it in to place with a screwdriver with the air box still lose. 2: Warm up the end to fit on the carb with a hot air gun this makes it so easy to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heathy Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 A good mod I have done to my airbox is to drill a hole in the bottom of it, then use a tap and die set to make some threads in the hole then I put in a screw with a oring. This makes it easy to drain the airbox saving the time taking it off. Although it is only 3 screws to take the airbox off I find it quite hard getting it back on because of the piece of plastic between the airbox and pipe that stops water getting past. Also it is a fast way to drain the airbox when your in a rush, eg. in a trial Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junior_vet Posted April 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 Thanks guys, I feel a lot better that it isn't just me with the airbox. I'll try those ideas next time I have it off. It looks like the rubber weatherstriping is glued on with a hot glue gun? Is that what I should use to glue it all on? I like the drain idea and will consider that in the future depending on how much water gets in there and how often. Take the carb out with it sounds a little technical. Kidding, I should check that out. My spark plug is a nice coffee color, and the bike runs cleanly. Does elevation make much difference on these bikes? It works good at 3,000ft but I do ride up to 6,000ft or a little higher. I found that the plastic sheet that slips between the airboot and airbox to completely obliterate any vision of the carb / airbox junction. I appreciate the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercool Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 I find that the only time i get water in my airbox is when i wash it, so now before washing i take air filter out and cover the top of airbox with tape, its dry as a bone all the time. I struggled with my airbox a little at first to, its just something you get better at the more you do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted April 12, 2005 Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 Which bit are you having trouble with? getting the airbox on to the back of the carb or getting the screews into the air box if its the latter you will find that after you have used your bike a bit, the airbox molds itself to a better shape and it is easier to get on. I don't bother with the plastic flap between the airbox and carb, it doesn't do much in the way of stopping water getting in, there far more water geting in from the sides i.e. inbetween the airbox and mudguard or exhaust and mudguard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junior_vet Posted April 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 Which bit are you having trouble with?getting the airbox on to the back of the carb or getting the screews into the air box Even though I can't see the back of the carb because of the mud flap, I can get that on OK. It is getting the mounting screws back into the airbox without cross threading them that is the issue. It seems that the airbox needs to go closer to the carb for the holes to line up. I got it back together OK but put the front tire up against the wall so I could push the airbox forward and line up the bolts. It took me way too long and I even got hand cramps doing it. So it gets easier does it? I hope so because I don't want to ever wash my bike again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 Screws in air box are easy. Make sure the carb to air box rubbers are aligned and just pinched. Do the one on the side first hammer handle to lift air box if needed leave loose screwdriver (small) in one hole and lever airbox over to align threads put in one and then other, careful not to damage threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 So it gets easier does it? Yeah definately All of the new sherco I had I've a bit of trouble puting the airbox back on for the first time or 2. When the bike has been run for a while and got nice and hot i.e. on a road trial, the airbox must soften a bit and mould into a better shape as they fit perfect after a while. It seems that the airbox needs to go closer to the carb for the holes to line up. This year bike has got a spacer in to push the reed valves further back but the airbox wasen't altered to suit so if your still having trouble getting the airbox on next time it might be worth shortening the front of the air box by a few mm. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heathy Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 The best way I have found to put the airbox on is to remove the carb from the reed block, then pull it slightly towards the back wheel, spray a bit of WD40 inside the pipe if needed to make it slide on better. Now fit the airbox to the carb. Now push the airbox and carb forward and put the carb back in the reed block, tighten everything and your done. Easy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junior_vet Posted April 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 This year bike has got a spacer in to push the reed valves further back but the airbox wasen't altered to suit so if your still having trouble getting the airbox on next time it might be worth shortening the front of the air box by a few That's the main problem, as well as trying to squeeze it over to the muffler. Lot's of good suggestions here. Thank you for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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