I got the bits up a b motorcycles merthyr, casing, seal,shaft gaskets,didnt need impeller.

Just going through all this on my 08 model. Water hadn't got through to the engine oil and my cooling system was all clean too, but the casing was leaking on the outside (impellor side) and once apart I could see it was pretty corroded looking and would only be a matter of time before it starting leaking in to the engine. You'll have to replace that case sooner rather than later and whilst you might be able to prolong your agony by applying liquid metal the the corroded surfaces, I'd just bite the bullet and put a new al/al casing on. And as others have said, new bearings and bushings thoughout too as well as a new gasket obviously. I used Splatshop who advertise on here for all my parts. Price was as good as anywhere else and delivery was quick too.

Well the plot thickens !

I rang Feet up Trials sport today, Partly because i've used them before when i've bought bits off ebay, and I could see the price of their casing on ebay and i was happy with it.

Chatting to the guy, He (as i) thought it was weird the oil was going into the rad and not the water going into the gearbox oil as it usually happens.

He advised me not to buy my bits just yet and check to see if the headgasket is in tact, because if its compromised, it could be allowing premix oil from the chamber into the water jacket, just creating the mayo.

So im going to strip the head off tonight and remove the water pump shaft to see if its worn.

I had a look at the headgasket and the evidence wasnt very conclusive.

so i've decided to change the casing and water pump shaft etc, as well as the headgasket.

Im goign to flush the engine and rad, does anyone have some tips on what i can flush it with? Im not quite sure what will break up this mayo?

Warm water? Petrol?

Bike now works perfectly,

Changed the side casing and all assorted parts, including the head gasket.

I washed the rad and engine jacket out with Gunk Ultimate degreaser, its water soluble and seemed to work alright after a few rinses,

So im happy enough now

About to fit my new casing when it's warm enough to work in the garage again. Hope all is well with the bike from here on in for you - and for me too once mine is done.

Thanks fella,

I also hope the bike is trouble free !! Its not that bad a job to be honest. If you need any advise just give me a shout.

I found that a dab of grease on the o rings helped to hold them in place

Just popped my new casing on today. Think it is OK, but not 100% sure about the gear shift oil seal. The lip sort of extends outwards over the shaft a bit like puckered lips. Not sure if I am meant to be pushing that back in a bit? I did see a groove on the shaft that I guess the seal lip should slot in to. Any ideas? I'll see if I can post up a picture of it.

throw a picture up fella

Hows this look?

Edited February 27, 201214 yr by mb4807

hmmm,

not too sure about that, initially i think you've not seated the casing properly on the engine, as i think it should sit in that 'lip'

I'll get a photo of my gearlever for comparison tonight

hmmm,

not too sure about that, initially i think you've not seated the casing properly on the engine, as i think it should sit in that 'lip'

I'll get a photo of my gearlever for comparison tonight

I contacted Chris at SplatShop who very kindly replied within minutes. Here's what he said, which I think makes sense:

"It looks like the seal lip has popped inside out, if that makes any sense. I'd definitely take another look at it as if it has done as i think the spring that holds the lip will have come off and may go in to the gearbox and cause problems.

I think I'd recommend getting a new seal, then you can lean the bike over, pull the old seal out with a seal pick, make sure you get the spring out if it has come off the back of the seal, then you should be able to put the new seal on without draining the oil or coolant."

So, that's what I'm going to do...

Glad he was able to help fella.

I did notice that the spring was missing from the seal, so something is off. Definately worth removing the casing and having another look

When putting the side casing back on, put the top off a felt pen or similar over the gearshift splines to ease the seal over them.

Mark

Just to complete the story, I wasn't able to get the seal out with a pick, so had to drop the bash plate and take the engine casing off, but it all went back together with the new seal no problem at all. I just should have been a bit more careful with the seal the first time around and taken a closer look at things. All good now though.