earthmover

Is this just the old VW Beetle tail pipe? Thought they were just straight pipe? Stand to be corrected, and as I have split the silencer on my Cub (one too many trips to terra firma) I am looking at replacements... Mark

+1 for the ProGrips. Been using them for a couple of years now, put on with spray paint, no wire. Cheers Mark

My recently acquired Cub has 14/58 secondary ratio, with a 15 tooth primary. It was built up in 1997 and hardly used since (apparently) Yes, the clutch struggles if you are heavy on the kickstart, but a gentle stroke gets her started. I have recently fitted the four plate clutch with new springs and pressure plate, which made a considerable difference, and I have since found that the friction material on the back of the clutch basket has all but disintegrated. This is away to be re-lined, and I'm confident this will be another step forward. As for the effect of the gearing, I'm very happy with the low speed this gives. The bike has a low 2nd gear as well, which is quite usable in sections. Unfortunately, the trade off is that top speed is about 25mph! Mark

Steve Martin? Mark

Here's our two Whitehawk 175's. Mark

Nelly, Demon Tweeks sell Samco heat resistant hoses, in a few different colours. Mark

Hi Miguel, Simple answer is no, CT/AT side cases are not compatible with a TY. I have both, and wheras there are some common parts, cases aren't one of them. Sorry! Mark

Have a look on TY Trials website. (www.tytrials.co.uk) They have most parts, and there are exploded drawings of the bikes for those hard to identify parts, and the order they fit. Mark

Another thumbs up for TY trials electric ignition from me. Replaced mine last year, simple to fit, makes it very difficult to stall, and has been trouble free from day one. Mark

I have seen TYs with a set of "up and back" road bike risers fitted the opposite way (ie up and forwards) Also seen an interesting set up with a piece of flat bar bolted across the original clamps, and an aftermarket Fatbar clamp bolted on, forward of the originals. Looked ugly, but the owner claimed it worked. Mark

Or you could try filling the holes in with epoxy. I've done that on a couple of sets of TY 175 forks which have 12 and 6 months use on them respectively with no hint of a leak. If you do get some other forks though, let me know, I'll be happy to take the old ones off your hands....... Mark

I have Betor's on both mine and my girlfriend's Whitehawks, both with 40lb springs. One set are the plain metal bodied, the other alloy, and both work all the way to the bump stops. John Cane does indeed sell them, and can tell you which springs you have by the OD of the wire. Mark

I was told which way up didn't matter, and yes, the valve looks less likely to get damaged at the top. I have to be careful to wind the spring around to a position where it doesn't catch on the chain on both of ours. Mark

I use 130ml of 10's weight fork oil in each leg. The action is a reasonable compromise at that, I'm 12 stone and can bottom them out fairly easily. I have added a 10mm spacer under the fork cap, using the best springs I had (from a selection of three sets) I'm toying with the idea of some new springs, and maybe making up some 12.5 weight oil to slow it down just a tad. Mark

Hi Nelly, There are classes for modern, and air cooled monos at both Aqueduct and Gresford Classics trials. There are usually around 10 or so modern bikes at any given event. HTH Mark