jason_s Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 Hi all, I have a 1997 250, with a ton of clutch drag, checked the hydraulics all seems ok, I've had the side cover off to check the plates, but when I operate the clutch it seems to move unevenly. Which to me seems wrong, are the spring bolts torqued down as they don't seem to tight? And will everything fly out when I take them off, also do they have a special sequence in the tightening up of the said spring bolts? I know a lot of questions for my first post but I can't find envy thing relating to the clutch spring bolt tightening and I don't want to snap anything... Cheers Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcman56 Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 There should be a torque setting for the bolts but it will be pretty low. Nothing springs out when you back off and remove the bolts. The plate should come out evenly. I would pull them out to make sure each location has the same spacers or whatever that model came with. Springs will not have exactly the same tension so you will be able to swap their locations to get a more even movement. It is a trial and error process but can produce good results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 You might want to pull the springs and place them on a flat surface to see if one has "sacked". Since your bike is a 97', you may want to take the plates out of the clutch and inspect them as some of the fiber plates may have had the fiber detach from the steel plate. Nothing should fly out but you will want to mark the pressure plate next to one of the spring towers so you re-assemble it exactly as it came off. There is a mark on the pressure plate and one of the towers has a slot on the top of it as a standard marking. Most of do "snug" as to the torque setting, unless you have a wrench that reads very accurately in inch/pounds. The upward pressure of the spring against the bolt washer acts as a retaining device. Jon ps. If this is your first experience with hydraulic clutches, the major cause of drag is not allowing a little slack where the lever screw meets the plunger (where it goes through the boot) on the master cylinder. For riders familiar with cable clutches, it's counter intuitive to back off the plunger adjustment to get more throw of the M/C piston. They think that screwing the lever adjustment in more will give more throw to the piston, which it does not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 When you have the clutch plates out, look into the clutch basket at the fingers that come toward you. If there is a lot of wear it can cause the clutch plates to not move smoothly. Some guys will grind and polish them for a super smooth surface. Don't get carried away with the ginder and be sure to flush any grinding material or metal dust before reassembly. When I got my '94 JT25 it had horrible clutch drag and the clutch was more like an on-off switch. I found the friction material had come unglued from the plates as Jon described. New plates helped a lot. Other cause of a lot of drag in my clutch is when the trans fluid is dirty. I use ATF - about 700 cc's. IT is relativley easy to drain and refill and it is less expensive than fancy oils that do not perfrom any better in my bike. The difference in clutch drag between dirty and clean fluid is amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_s Posted July 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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