kawarex Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Hi, some advice would be much appreciated by you all, i have started to recommission my 1999 TXT 249 and after getting it running the clutch won't disengage ? I got it warmed up and went to engage second gear, released the clutch but nothing ?? Have the plates just stuck together, oh i forgot to mention i haven't used it since 2000 because of the foot and mouth carry on back then and just haven't had the time till now. Any help, thoughts or ideas would be gratefully received, cheers Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawarex Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Oh and another thing where would anyone recommend as a spares supplier for Gas Gas parts ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnottben Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Not sure about the clutch pal, but gas gas UK seems to be the best place to get spares, google them, get the number then just call them up and describe what you need. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigh88 Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Did you actually get it into gear? If second engaged then the plates arnt stuck together. When they stick you won't be able to select a gear at all. The bike will just stall as if you havnt pulled the clutch in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawarex Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Cheers guys for the quick replies. yeah i could feel it engage and also first bet when i let the clutch out and nothing ?? just revved up whilst in gear, had my foot covering the brake mind !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigh88 Posted September 28, 2012 Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Take the clutch cover off mate and take the clutch out. Have a look at the springs and the friction plates, I'd imagine that your fault lies there somewhere and will probably be massively obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawarex Posted September 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2012 Cheers dude looks like thats the job to do next, onwards and upwards ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staldantes Posted September 29, 2012 Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 (edited) As a newbie and new to Trialing and this forum, the one thing I have quickly noticed was the number of people with this common fault. Never had an issue with any other bike in my life and thats 20 years biking experience. I know most say its something you just get used to, but in my relative basic manoeuvring so far I have found clutch drag very annoying. I mentioned in another thread that by changing the clutch master to a that of another bike helped somewhat (further master cylinder fluid movement), but even then I have to fully compress the clutch springs to be able to find neutral. Most suggest Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) in the clutch, I sprang for 5W30 as suggested in the Clutch videos from TrialpartsUSA. So go for the ATF grade as the 5W30 didn't help me much. Might even change my oil again this week to see if it helps. I find it strange that I might even need the full lever travel to free the transmission. My springs, plates, and slave were all fine with no leakage, and system well bled. As a novice to this type of fun, I have on many occasions wanted to pause for a minute after tackling a particular obstacle and hate stopping the motor in order to do this. I can only imagine its a design fault that can be rectified with personal intervention. Edited September 29, 2012 by staldantes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawarex Posted September 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 Hi staldantes my Ossa MAR that i rode as a kid in the early eighties did it and my Gasser was dragging before i laid it up in 2000 but it's a different fault now ? I am lucky as i had already purchased a replacement clutch kit when it was giving me issues but never fitted it. As for the ATF i'm unsure as i have heard some people saying avoid it like the plague ? personally i have always used Motul transoil in this and it was fine for a long time and i've just purchased some today to change it on Monday and see what happens ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staldantes Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 My bad. I thought I was buying the only non-synthetic 5W30 in the shop, GM Dexos2, as there was no mention of synthetic on the 1 litre bottle. Instead after researching this I find out that its called Super Synthetic, whatever that means. So I´ll be of to some other shops tomorrow to find a non-synthetic (meaning mineral right?) tomorrow. My faith in Jim (from TrialpartsUSA) is restored for the meantime. Shops here in Spain don´t tend to have the same variety as I was used to in the UK. Will have a look out for your Motul, but also read Motorex does a good gear oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staldantes Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Hi Kawarex, how did it go with the Motul Transoil? I was in a recommended shop here today and they had nothing in non-synthetic 5W30. And after spending ages getting a parking space I was determined to buy something to try, I had two options, either the Motul Transoil (I think its 10W30), or a Motul Multi ATF (Dexron IIIG). Having now looked again at your previous post I see that you decided on the Transoil, so wanted to ask how it went before I open the coin toss I had (and went for the Multi ATF , which was more expensive). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staldantes Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Just read this: http://www.gasgasuk.com/gas-gas-news.php?id=126 In the transmission oil section it states that Gas Gas spain recommend Dexron III fluid. Seems that each country recommends something different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 (edited) Staldantes, I know everyone has an opinion. But, I used GM's Autotrack2 transmission fluid, never had any of the issues that many of the upper echelon (up the Gas Gas support chain) were reporting, that I ever can see or tell. up until last week I had in our stable, the last 4 bikes we bought new, a 2006 300 Pro, a 2008 Raga 300, a 2010 raga 300, and the 2011 raga 300. Up until we bought the 2011, we were using the GM autotrack. no clutch problems. I have switched to Yamalube of some flavor, and the clutch almost feels the same as I liked it with Autotrack2 (how quickly it bites). All because everyone was saying get away from the autotrack2 and I think they were saying any synthetic transmission oils. I did this because it seemed prudent to not press the issue. I dont know why our bikes seems to not have the whatever clutch issue that GG-UK has reported to be the effect of synthetic oil. Im also not certain, but I think the Yamalube I use now, is motor oil with semi synthec blend, but I am not positive and will have to re-check which bottle I actually have, looking at Yamaha motor corps's yamalube website, I cannot recall which one I am buying/using. Automatic trans fluid seems to me, to make the clutch more like a light switch (engaged or not enguaged) where at the 5w30 that I think i am using, seems to make the switch slightly more like a dimmer switch, which I like as I can really feather the clutch. Big dogs don't feather clutches, they point REV, and shoot at everything, and hop where I am trying to just "turn" you know. hope that helps a little. I'm getting old enough (and my real job takes up too much memory) I cannot recall but lots of guys over here in USA, in my local club at least, were using some MOTUL branded oil I believe, I just dont know what it was though, I didnt try it, and yamalube is cheaper. Main thing probably is, dont use autotrack2 (lol), and change it VERY often. it is lubing the crank bearings in the Pro engines, plus we abuse the clutches, so change it, after just a few hours of riding you know... I say 10 hours or so. the oil turns blackish tinted (compared to fresh) with clutch drizzle I guess, in about 10 hours or so. Changing it often, helps you keep the debri out, clean both bolts ya know (fill and drain) they have magnets to catch metal filings. Edited October 3, 2012 by sting32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staldantes Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Just an update. With the Multi ATF (Motul) the clutch feels very nice indeed. There is virtually no drag when clutch plates are disengaged, making the riding experience so much better . Double checked the springs at the same time, all fine. Finding neutral can sometimes be elusive, but at least there is no drag whilst trying (usually find it using my hand). Will drop off another update after a few weeks on whether it stays this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 yeah, find neutral while getting close to parking (still moving) is what I do... otherwise, I have "NEVER" found neutral by mistake while stopped trying to get to second or 3rd... which is a GOOD thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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