breezer Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 hi all. firstly it doesnt look like my tablet likes the website and wont let me post a carriage return so apologies for the stream of conciousness style. putting a bsa c15 together and im using a bushman rear hub - i believe this is fairly common. 2 questions, anyone know where i can get a rear sprocket made up as it needs to be bantam mounting but c15 thickness? And anyone know the tricks of the trade to fasten it to the hub - as the bantam uses a crazy 7/32" bscy bolt which only appear to be available in the bantam length - as the sprocket will be thicker do i need to get the sprocket countersunk? Hope some one can help. jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broony Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Jim,on Alf my C15 I have a bantam/cub rear hub fitted with a Talon sprocket(Sammy Miller Products),I used the old steel sprocket as a spacer and bored the hub out and used 6mm stainless bolts and nylocs to retain the sprocket. cheers the noo Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breezer Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 cheers brian. the bushman hub is a tiny bit wider than the standard bantam (bought it as a std bantam hub and consider myself extremely lucky) its pretty much exactlyt the same width as the c15 swingarm. i presume the width is whyyou used the old sprocket as a spacer? like the idea of drilling through and using nuts and bolts - i had considered drilling and re tapping to m7 although if possible id like to keep all fasteners imperial purely to cut down on the number of tools i need (1 bfh should suffice). cheers again. jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 cheers brian. the bushman hub is a tiny bit wider than the standard bantam (bought it as a std bantam hub and consider myself extremely lucky) its pretty much exactlyt the same width as the c15 swingarm. i presume the width is whyyou used the old sprocket as a spacer? like the idea of drilling through and using nuts and bolts - i had considered drilling and re tapping to m7 although if possible id like to keep all fasteners imperial purely to cut down on the number of tools i need (1 bfh should suffice). cheers again. jim You use a spacer to give more clearence between the chain and the tyre. You also need to move the motor over to the left by a corresponding amount to maintain chain alignment. If you dont the rear wheel locks up with mud as the chain clearence isnt enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gautrek Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 I think you will find that you will be able to drill and tap the lugs for 1/4 BSW.I did this on my hub and I drilled and tapped the lugs all the way through.I then ordered some long cap head bolts so i could chop them down to the right length.If you use cap head bolts and spring washers they will clear the brake plate(just). I ensured that the bolts I fitted went all the way through the lugs to give it as much strength as possible.After 3 years of very muddy use with a 72 tooth rear sprocket then haven't come loose yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breezer Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 thanks for the repy. didnt think about brake plate clearance although i had considered tapping ut to 1/4 although i was thinking bsf - any reason for bsw over bsf? think i may try loctite first with no spring washer and drill and tap if that doesnt work. cheers, jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 thanks for the repy. didnt think about brake plate clearance although i had considered tapping ut to 1/4 although i was thinking bsf - any reason for bsw over bsf? think i may try loctite first with no spring washer and drill and tap if that doesnt work. cheers, jim Dont get why you would tap either. Personally i would and always do metricate as many fasteners engine mounts etc as possible as metric size fasteners are cheap and freely available. So whats the point of using imperial threads and spanners ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breezer Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 hmmmm, same reason i reckon we should revert to pounds, shillings and pence. metric fasteners and decimalisation is all too easy everythin divides by 10 - it takes the challenge out of things. plus i only want to carry one set of spanners. i also reckon we should ditch the eu and go back to the commonwealth ;-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gautrek Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 No there is no reason for bsf over bsw.apart from i was worried about how much actual thread i would have in the hole.thats why i used bolts as long as i could.as to why keep to imperial. Less spanners to carry.and if you shop around you can pick up imperial stuff cheap enough.i have one metric bolt on my bike and that holds the tank on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breezer Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 hi all , making some but slow progress. both wheels buit up andin bike which helps to motivate me as it looks like a bike now. biggest issue at the moment is anchoring the rear brake (bantam hub) the anchor plate from the bantam JUST reaches the anchor point - i reckon have about 10mm of adjustment from the wheel being full in the swingarm to as far back as the anchor plate allows. is this enough? i was thinking of using the two anchor points to make a triangular bracket but i think this would force the wheel to be too far back. how have others solved this problem? i was wndering whether it could be done by leaving the wheel in one place and using a chain tensioner? any help or advice much appreciated. jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted May 17, 2013 Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 Why not just lengthen the arm or move the anchor point ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totalshell Posted May 17, 2013 Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 Why not just lengthen the arm or move the anchor point ? the short answers are the best answers... dont overcomplicate keep it simples..as for sprockets check out my blog cannot recommend the the sprocket supplier high enough brilliant job and fast..make sure your measurements are accurate.. they do exactly what you say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breezer Posted May 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 Moving the anchor point will be much easier said than done by the way its part of the swingarm. I was trying to avoid any messing with the arm to bit weaken it but if i let a strip in on the flat unslotted bit it should be strong enough Just wondered if there was a common fix as its a common idea to put those hubs in a c15. cue 20 respinses of lengthen the arm! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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