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Cant Get 125 Pro Clutch Right ! Arghhhhhhhh


enduro vet
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2009 TXT Pro 125... Put a new Genuine GGUK ? Complete Clutch kit in DP , and few weeks ago, with master cylinder repair kit and bleed properly with Putoline mineral oil .. .. Ok for while , but noticed a bit of coolant loss, ( Putoline GG Recommend oil NOT Contaminated So replaced the water pump washer any way .. Clutch dragging and oil gone greeny / milky , so ordered full factory Water pump repair kit , with new shaft , tight fit 10 mm factory seal... Not loosing and coolant now , but Putoline oil still milky , despite about 4 changes whilst hot??? This is my boys bike ,and clutch not as smooth as a my 2010 250 pro .. What next change mater cylinder ? Its a got a large capacity S3 one on already , or PX it for a Sherco 125 !!!!!

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Two things. Go out get the bike warm in 4 th gear and break the clutch in. Lots of revs and major clutch. Since you own a working master cylinder change it out. (from your bike) To clean out the milky oil you need to completely fill the cases with something. Do not run it that way. you cuold leave it overnight and then fill to the correct levels.

Good Luck!

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MIlky oil will definitely cause lots of clutch drag.

If the oil is still milky, there is either water still getting into the oil or there is residual (milky) oil that did not drain completely. Remember that the engine cases have various sections and pockets that will retain liquid when you drain it. When I change my oil, I usually remove the plug, drain the bike vertical, then lean it side to side to try to let those pockets in the cases drain also. Also I rock it front to back on the stand to get as much of the old oil out as possible.

One way to confirm if it is just residual oil would be to change the oil, remove the plug so the engine willl not start, select an gear and kick it over a bunch (and I mean a whole lot of kicking) to turn the gears and circulate the new oil with the old oil. If it gets milky, it must be from the mixing, not from a leaking coolant system.

If it does not get milky, then reinstall the plug, put the bike in neutral, start it and let it run on the stand until the fan starts. Shut it off, check the oil again. If it is milky, then there is a still a coolant leak into the oil.

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Thanks guys, will over fill it with Putoline over night , drain off ( a bit ) and then run it a give it a load of slip.. Plan B, can still be to swap Master cylinder, but hopefully will not require.. Let you know how I get on , in case others have same problem..

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Hopes are:

Not going to make anyone mad asking the obvious? there is a certain way the clutch parts MUST go together, I can assume you found that information and was able to follow it? Including that the bike must be laying on side (clutch side up) to assemble? I have heard people doing this on a stand, then you can't get the clutch fingers to be right when you put the case cover on...

Milky oil stays milky when you shut bike off BTW, for a while... if it only foamy only when running, might be the oil you are using?

Installing that seal in Water pump backwards (don't ask me why I know, that this is so easily done) lets water into transmission almost as if you don't have a seal in there...

Edited by sting32
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Sting you were correct !! Water pump seal in the wrong way round :blush: :blush: :blush:

We replaced it a couple of weeks ago with Genuine GG 10mm, put new one on same way old one came off .. ( thanks Previous owner !). Fitted new one today , clutch feels much better, oil doesn't looking like dish washing liquid :hyper:

Lets hope clutch says nice and its not contaminated new plates.. At least we now know which way round they go , Thanks for your advice ..

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